Edible Gardening

The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide To STARTING SEEDS Indoors



This video is the ultimate beginner’s guide to starting seeds! I discuss why starting plants from seed is better than buying transplants, the best plants to grow indoors from seed, how to prepare seedling trays, how to sow seeds in seedling trays, and how to maximize germination rates with seedling heat mats!

TABLE OF CONTENTS
0:00 Why You Should Grow Plants From Seed
1:21 The Best Plants To Start Indoors From Seed
3:16 Seed Starting Supplies For Transplants
4:27 Prepping Seed Starting Trays
7:20 How To Sow Seeds In Seedling Trays
12:22 How To Use Seedling Heat Mats
16:12 Seed Germination Results
17:38 Adventures With Dale

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#gardening #garden #gardeningtips #startingseeds #seedstarting

What’s growing on gardeners it’s Tuesday December 12th and it might be a bitterly cold day here on the Southeastern coast of North Carolina but it is already the start of seed starting season for the new gardening year that’s why on today’s video I’m going to prepare for you the

Ultimate beginner’s guide for starting seed if you’re new to the Channel Please Subscribe and hit the Bell to receive new video notifications and check out our Amazon store and spread chop links in the video description for everything I use in my garden and awesome custom designed apparel and other gear your

Supp is greatly appreciated first things first why should I start my plants from seed well I don’t know if you’ve been to any gardening centers recently but the cost of transplants have gone through the roof sometimes a sixpack of vegetables can be as much as five or $6

Sometimes it’s 5 or $6 for one single decent Siz plant contrast that to a pack of seeds you can still get a lot of packs of seed out there for about $2 to $3 a pack and there are at at least 50 to 100 seeds in this pack so I could go

To a gardening center and I can buy a sixpack of cabbage transplants for five or $6 or for $2 to $3 I can go out buy this pack of seed and start 50 to 100 cabbage transplants and that is with the cost of some kind of potting mix because

That stuff is dirt cheap and easy to make next question which plants do best started from transplant from seed indoors and there were basically two answers to that question the first answer is any kind of plant that does not do well being direct sewn outdoors from seed in an open air environment

Examples of a plant like that would be onions leaks or shallots because the seeds are so small and they have to be sewn so shallow they don’t do well being grown direct sewn in your open garden beds because they tend to wash away when you get really hard rain and have poor

Germination rates so because of that you’re going to watch winded up with disorganized rows with a lot of gaps in the rows those do best started indoors as transplants the second answer to the question is anytime you want to put plants in the ground that need a big

Jump start due to climactic conditions so an example of that in terms of cool season crops would be broccoli and cabbage because they need to mature when it is cool out not yet hot but not super freezing you generally want to have larger transplants ready to go as soon

As the weather breaks because if you direct sew them chances are you will run out of the proper temperatures and it’ll either get too cold for you in the fall and damage the plants or too hot for you in the spring and the summer and cause

Them to bolt and go to seed and you won’t get a good harvest now in terms of warm weather plants things like tomatoes peppers cucumbers and squash also do very well from transplants so you can give them a big head start indoors that’s because if we wait for the frost

And freezes to stop and we finally start planting things out in our garden directly in April or May by the time they get large enough to have a harvest it will already be fall so you really want to have fairly large transplants ready to go and the best way to do that

Is to start your seeds indoors now that you understand what the best plants are to start indoors let me show you how I do it the first thing that we need to do is we need to gather our seed starting supplies and I’m going to use the

Following supplies to start my seeds I’m going to use a Seedling transplant tray with a lid to maintain humidity but it has an adjustable Dome so I can vary the humidity as needed I’m going to use plant labels and I’m going to use an oilbased paint pen that you see right

Here the oilbased paint pens will last much longer than the water-based permanent markers the permanent markers will fade quickly but the oil-based pens will last all season I’m going to use a chopstick to help add the seeds to the seed trays it makes life a lot easier I

Have obviously the seeds themselves and and I have a seed starting mix now you can make your own seed starting mix if you want using roughly two to three parts cocoa core or Pete Moss to one part vermiculite add the vermiculite as needed to maintain more moisture but for

This video it was just easier to buy a pre-made product and I’m also going to use a Seedling heat mat and a heat mat thermostat for germination I will show you how to use them later in the video the first thing we’re going to do is fill our seedling transplant tray with

The seed starting mix now the seed starting mix is very light and fluffy so we actually want to use that to our advantage we are going to fill it up each of the individual squares to the top before we actually compact any of the mix down because when you compact

The mix down it’s going to add a significant amount of room to each of the individual seed starting trays that we will need later to sew our seeds and you’ll see the technique I’m using here I’m basically just placing the seed starting mix on top and then I’m running

My hands gingerly along the tops of all of the individual seed start trays just to make sure that everything is filled up to the top and then we’re going to scrape off any excess to the side and then recollect it in our potting mix bag because we don’t want to throw away that

Excess soil the next thing that we’re going to do is we’re going to gently compress the mix down in order to make room for our seeds now all of the different seeds that I’m planting in this video want about a/4 in of cover so when I simply press down this seed

Starting mix that’s going to give me about a/4 to a half of an inch of room in each of these individual trays and that’s just what I want so I can top them lightly with more mix once all of the seeds are sewn now it’s very important that you do not compress these

Down firmly you don’t want it to be hard you want to have just a light amount of firmness just enough to get everything compressed down but it is still nice and springy now that the mix has been perfectly compressed down I’m going to add just a tiny bit of water to each of

The individual tray cells because I want to pre moisten the mix you see the the mix in the very beginning is hydrophobic it will repel water to a degree once you put the seeds in there you don’t want all that water to collect on the top it

It won’t absorb very well so I’m just going to apply a light amount of water because the first little bit of water that you put in always takes a while to absorb into the mix so while I’m letting this water absorb I’m just going to go

About my day and then once it absorbs in we’ll come back and we will sew our seeds Okay after about 30 minutes the water has absorbed into each of the individual seed cells now we need to start placing our plant labels now I’m going to plant these by the row so I

Basically only need one plant label per row if you’re going to plant your seeds in a more random pattern you’re going to have to figure out a way to label them you’re either going to have to put a plant label per cell or you can do what

I do with my tomatoes and I draw out a diagram and then I list in the paper diagram what each individual seed cell is now we are going to begin sewing our seeds and to do this we’re going to use a technique called overseeding and what

That means is we will be planting more than one seed per individual cell and the reason why we do this is because seeds do not have a 100% germination rate they only average a germination rate usually of about 80% or so so if you only place one seed in each

Individual cell that means you’re going to have a significant number of cells where nothing comes up and we get around this by placing more than one seed per cell now if you’re buying very expensive seed like I sometimes do with hybrid tomato Tomatoes where 10 to 15 seeds can

Cost as much as $5 sometimes I will only overseed every other cell because the seed is so expensive that I don’t want to pay to put two seeds per cell but in this case I’m using pretty much all either old varieties or heirloom varieties where the seed is very cheap

So for that reason in this video I’m going to place two seeds in each individual cell now I want to show you why I love using Chopsticks in the seed starting process they are great for getting underneath the lips of these seed packets and whether the seed

Packets are brand new or if you place tape on like I do it lifts off very easily they’re also great for grabbing individual seeds so I’m going to show you how I do that I’m going to start off with the green cabbage and I’m going to

Place the seeds in my hand like you see it and then I like to lick the tip of the Chopstick and then that will grab onto the seed and then I can place one two in each individual seed tray again let’s show you a little bit closer with

This closeup the tip of this Chopstick is wet so the seeds immediately adhere to it so I like to place them in the corners of each of these individual seed cells just like that and this Chopstick trick makes things so easy and so precise Now you may have noticed that I sprinkled The Parsley seeds on top of my soil with my bare hands that’s because parsley has Terri terrible germination rates and the parsley seed itself it’s really lightweight and hard to deal with so it’s easier to just sprinkle a bunch

On top of the potting mix as for the mustard greens because the seeds are so small I overseeded them more and because we grow them as leafy greens they can be clustered together and it’s okay if we allow a couple of seeds to germinate in a single seed tray we don’t necessarily

Have to thin them down to one plant per seed tray when it comes to the cabbage and the broccoli they all need to be thinned down to one individual plant per seed cell so it’s very important that we don’t overseed them too much or else

We’re going to be ripping out a lot of plants and chopping them down so now that all of our seeds have been placed we want to bury them all about a/4 in deep and we pretty much did this perfectly uh by allowing the compression of the potting mix itself to go down

About a/4 in to a/ an inch so we’re just going to lightly cover them all about halfway and that will give us the/ qu in of cover that we desire while also not filling it up completely to the top so it gives us a little bit of a buffer to

Be able to water everything in we can’t fill these individual seed cells completely up to the top because if we do that we’re not going to give ourselves any room to add water so just like before what we basically want to do is we want to fill all of the individual

Seed cells with the uncompressed potting mix up to the top and then lightly run our hands on top of all the seed cells because then when we lightly compact down the potting mix individually that is going to basically have us arrive at the exact depth that we want and now

That all of our seeds have been lightly buried in the potting mix we’re once again going to take just a little bit of water and we’re going to wet down each of the individual seed cells now the potting mix underneath has already been primed and should absorb the water Fair

Fairly quickly but the mix on top is going to be fairly hydrophobic still so once again we’re going to have to wait a little while for that water to absorb into each individual seed cell and it’s important that we do this very lightly and drizzle on top we don’t want to

Disturb the individual seeds so we’re just going to let that absorb into the mix okay the potting soil has absorbed all the water now it’s time to fire up our seedling heat mat so so what you see right here is my large seedling heat mat in my office and then I have my

Thermostat right here and I have set it to 73° F now why did I set it to 73° F Well brasas such as broccoli cabbage and mustard they can germinate in soil temperatures as cool as 40° fah but they’ll take forever they can also germinate in temperatures as warm as 80

To 85° F but you’ll probably get spottier germination the ideal germination temperature for fastest results for brasas is about 70 to 75° F similarly parsley also germinates best at about 70° F so it’s very important that when you plant things in a seed tray if you’re going to mix different

Plants you have to make sure that they germinate at similar temperatures you wouldn’t want to mix something like cabbage with hot peppers because hot peppers need much higher soil temperatures to germinate so I’m going to take this probe for the heat mat thermostat and I’m going to place it

Underneath here so that is going to hold that heat mat thermostat probe so you can see that is rapidly dropping the temperature because that potting mix is cool so that is going to slowly warm up as the heat mat warms up and I’m going to place this Dome over top and that is

Going to maintain some amount of humidity I’m also going to open the Dome just a little bit to vent it to let some fresh air in because you don’t want an environment where there’s no fresh air for your seedlings to germinate because that can create a rot condition and you

Can have your seedlings damp off because it can grow mold or fungal diseases now you may be wondering why am I using this enormous seedling heat mat for that one tray of seedlings why aren’t I using this much smaller heat mat right here that is the perfect size for that

Individual tray well that’s because my seed starting has only just begun I just started that one Dome full of seedlings as an example for this video I’m going to start way more I’m going to start more broccoli more cabbage more mustard greens I’m going to add brussel sprouts

Collared greens and a whole bunch of other stuff that grows well in the late winter and I want to get them started now so I can plant them out into my garden in late January to early to mid February depending on when they mature generally speaking your seedlings are

Going to be perfect for transplant sometime around 4 to 8 weeks after germination when they’re 3 in tall so now we are simply going to keep an eye on these seedlings and make sure that the seed trays do not dry out so we should check on them every single day

And make sure that they are lightly moist whatever you do do not overwater them if you keep the potting mix too wet you will have a high degree of the seedlings developing a fungal disease called damping off disease and they will fail they will wither away at the bases

And they will die so it is better to keep your mix slightly dry than too wet however we want to make sure that it does not dry out completely so keep an eye on them you should expect germination sometime within 7 to 14 days in general however sometimes on these

Seedling heat mats they will germinate even more quickly once you start to see germination it’s very important that you get them underneath strong light because if they germinate and you leave bottom heat on them they tend to grow very leggy very quickly so once you start to

See the first few things break ground it’s a good idea to move them into strong sunlight or underneath some kind of intense grow light to prevent your seedlings from getting leggy it’s Sunday December 17th and I’ve had massive success with my germination already back here you can see my mustard greens these

Germinated in as little as 2 to 3 days they were starting to break through the soil so they have to be brought out into intense light or put under grow lights as soon as possible because they’re starting to get leggy the broccoli and the Cabbage that you see breaking here

They take a little bit more time but they’re all starting to come up really nicely so now I’m going to move them out into my sun room into direct sunlight and that will easily fix any of these legginess problems if you ever have a problem with legginess in your seedlings

The key is to get them under direct sunlight strong sunlight or strong grow lights as quickly as possible and then you can also set up a very gentle oscillating fan because that will move move them back and forth and that will cause them to thicken up their

Individual stems and that right there is my complete beginner’s guide to starting transplants indoors from seed so everybody I sure hope you found this video helpful if you did please make sure to hit that like button subscribe to the channel and please ring that notification Bell so you’re notified

When I release more videos like these if you’re curious about any of the products that I used in this video or that I use in real life in my garden they are all linked Down Below in my Amazon storefront in the video description so expand that video description and click

On the Amazon link to see everything I use in real life and while you’re there check out my spreadsh shop for custom merch if you want to support the channel thank you all so much for watching and I hope to see all of you again on the next

Video what’s wrong Dale do you want something Dale go hit the button oh you want to eat you want to eat oh we are button training Dale because he knows so many words that we’ve taught him but you know what we’re trying to get it so he can communicate

And say words to us and we just started it and he’s already picking it up so well so in this food right here we have London bro brussel sprouts carrots and Jasmine rice oh he’s been waiting so long for this Dale wants to each each yeah

Buddy he’s doing such a good job he is such a smart boy I can’t believe how well he’s picking up these buttons

45 Comments

  1. If you enjoyed this video, please "Like" and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching 😊TIMESTAMPS for convenience:
    0:00 Why You Should Grow Plants From Seed
    1:21 The Best Plants To Start Indoors From Seed
    3:16 Seed Starting Supplies For Transplants
    4:27 Prepping Seed Starting Trays
    7:20 How To Sow Seeds In Seedling Trays
    12:22 How To Use Seedling Heat Mats
    16:12 Seed Germination Results
    17:38 Adventures With Dale

  2. This is great information. I must admit that I used those types of trays for starting my seeds,then made a total disaster of them while trying to move them to a larger container until they were ready to go into the ground. Do you have any suggestions for me? Living in SE Pennsylvania, we have to hold off planting outside.

  3. ❤🚨 onions, leaks and lemon grass make great companion pants to keep pest off fruit trees and other plans. Direct sew seeds around all new plantings it looks cute and keeps bugs away🎉 happy gardening

  4. Next to my greenhouse and grwoing lettuces insdoors Seed starting is some of the best therapy I can have in the middle of this winter depression.

  5. Really enjoy your content, and it keeps getting better. Your angles and editing are noteworthy. Question: Why did you use watering can that can move seeds instead of sprayer? I haven't had luck with large streams as much as the spray. I don't start enough to know which is better. Thank you brother

  6. Perfect seed starting video for beginners! ❤ You are a clear and concise teacher….well done! I like your “prep” shots on what is needed, but oops, didn’t mention the drip-proof tray under the seed tray. Last year was my first time starting veg seed and I did very well indeed. The humidity dome did what was needed. My BIG mistake was not being aware of various germination rates, ugh. Slow-to-start next to 1” tall. You showed that issue very well in your video. I pre-dampened my starter mix before filling the tray and found that worked a bit easier for me. Well, didn’t have that nifty watering can so I had to “make do”! 🤣

  7. I have found the best way to water after planting the seeds in the cells and up to transplanting in the garden is to use a turkey baster. You can easily limit how much force you use in adding the water to the cells.

  8. @TheMillennialGardener – Every single time I've started seed indoors with a dome, despite using sterilized mix and a clean tray with the vent open… I get mould on the surface of the mix. Generally I need to remove the dome to let it breath. Do you ever have similar issues?

  9. I've been following your channel for so long now I can't remember when I started, lol. I still enjoy everyone and always get great tips or reminders. I always wait to see Dale as well. 😊 he is such a love

  10. Beginner seed starter here …once they germinate and its time to move them into direct sun- do you still keep them on the heat mats too? THANK U SOO MUCH !!! :)😀

  11. Only problem I see, you did the seed starting soil dry. For years I couldn't figure out why I had such a hard time getting seeds to start. Now that I make sure my soil is moist first, before adding to my trays it makes a huge difference.
    Thank you for the tip on the oil marker, that makes a lot of sense.

  12. Silly question. Do you not like hot, ,, Scorpion/ higher peppers.
    That fine Thai pepper.
    😊 When will you get into this hot hobby. Do you not like this hobby or are these plants so area prone that your garden cannot hold them

  13. I use a chopstick too but wooden shish kabob skewers work great as well. China marker oil pens work great to write on tags and wipe off with a magic eraser. I think a fine mist sprayer works much better for watering in after placing seeds but I also generally dampen my mix just slightly to negate the hydrophobic properties (not even quite damp sponge consistency). I think my seed tends to move around a lot of the mix is dry then I add water, especially in stream form at all.

  14. Do the seedlings need to be transplanted into a larger pot to grow big enough to put in containers or in the ground? Thank you for your tips, I just started 100 starters in the hope that 30% will make it, from your videos 😊

  15. I love as you explain simply and clearly things. Being not fluent English speaker, it's great to understand everything. And your gesture is precise and inspiring.

  16. Yo man! Local Wilmington native starting my first garden. Your videos are super helpful and relevant given your location. I just got my first seeds started thanks to this video. Keep up the great work!

  17. Hello there, great video. I found you a month ago right when I am trying to start a garden. My question is instead of the mustard can I place collards instead to pair or grow next to the others in your video. Thanks in advance.

  18. New subscriber here. I appreciate the knowledge. I’m extremely new to Gardening. Where can I find the right temperatures to plant vegetables

  19. If you check with your local gardening community mine hosts seed exchanges where you can exchange seeds and take free seeds home

  20. When they start to sprout are we suppose to move them off the heating pads to lights? Or put lights on top of them on the heating mats? Thank you so much!

  21. Sorry but it’s my big disappointment about gardening in N.C. Summer 100 degrees and winter 20. Not really a good place to garden. And by the way, I see now why the state is limited to corn, tobacco, and cotton only.

  22. Ive got chopsticks and i didnt think of that Thank You i will try this as i tend to only put 1 seed and then get heartbroken when they dont come up. Also i put my seedlings out too early last year and they gor stunted so not taking aby chances this year. Love you channel and i appreciate all your wisdom😊

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