How to garden successfully on a slope. Whether you’re living on a mountain or just have a small bank to plant up, experienced gardeners Richard and Lesley explain how gardening on a slope is different from gardening on the flat. Here they share their top tips:
00:00 You don’t need special plants for a slope
00:30 How to start gardening on a slope
01:06 You see slopes from more angles than flat gardens have
01:58 Should you plant a slope with the smallest plants at the front, tallest at the back?
03:34 Work out how the sun falls on your slope
03:48 Staking is important on a slope
05:15 Do you need ‘mat-forming plants’?
05:30 It’s essential to mulch your garden well
06:00 Watering a sloping border
06:51 Terracing a sloping garden
09:56 Managing shady slopes
10:45 What have been your most successful border plants?
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If you’ve got a sloping garden you don’t need special plants, but you do need different techniques of planting, watering and even design. It’s Alexandra here from The Middle-Sized Garden YouTube channel and blog, and I visited Richard and Lesley’s sloping garden to see how different
Gardening on a slope was from gardening on the flat. It’s a larger garden than the ones we usually feature on The Middle-Sized Garden, but the tips and techniques are absolutely the same – whether you’re gardening on a mountain, or you just have a small bank. So Lesley,
Tell me what you think the most important thing is when you start to garden in a sloping garden? I think it’s to channel your inner mountain goat and accept the fact that you have a sloping garden,
And not pretend that you have a flat garden. And there are I think two major things that you can do in a sloping garden. One is work on a slope, and accept the gradient in whatever border it is that
You’re working in, and the other is to formally terrace, so that you have a series of flat beds. But in both cases you need to work with the slope that you’re given. And you said that one of the
Interesting things is that it’s a question of the angles that you look at the borders on. Yes, you see borders in a sloping garden from many more angles than you do in a flat garden. For example,
If you have a rectangular border and you can walk all the way around it, you see it from the four angles from the pathways, but you are also likely to see a different aerial view from higher up in
The garden, and a different view again from much lower in the garden, where it forms a backdrop to perhaps something else in the middle. So you need to think about all of those things when designing planting material. But they are wonderful things – they’re challenging things – but they’re also
Wonderful things, and it can mean that you can get longer vistas in a sloping garden than you can in a completely flat garden. So if you were actually planning that border, would you be sort of putting
Lower plants all the way around the sides, or how would you actually deal with this fact you’ve got up to six angles that you can see the border from? Not necessarily putting the lower plants all around the edge of the border, because one of the difficulties of a sloping border is the height
Issue, and the traditional “tallest at the back smallest at the front” doesn’t work in a sloping border, and you have to be bold sometimes and put a terribly tall plant at the front, or the side,
Or the back or the other side, so that it doesn’t feel as though the entire border is going to slip off. When you actually started here, had you gardened on a slope before? No. So what did
You immediately think about? Well this is an old 19th century garden that had been badly let go for decades, so we are blessed with 19th century dry stone walls, and magnificent trees, and 100-year old rhododendron and not much else. So we decided that we’d start from the house and work out. And
The biggest sloping border happens to be right next to the house, and that was essentially my laboratory. It taught me a lot about how to work on a quite a steep gradient, but I was prepared to take things out that weren’t working, and I was also prepared to move things around that weren’t
Working. And there are a number of very practical issues that you have to do with on a slope. One is obviously water. The other is which direction the sun is – that is whether you slope towards or away
From the sun – because phototropism is very much exaggerated on a gradient, and staking is a very big issue on a slope, and I don’t think I’ve quite cracked that. I’m a lot better than I used to be,
But I experiment with new techniques of that every year. And what’s been the most successful staking technique? Well it depends on the plant, but I always have to remember in spring as the brave first shoots come out of the ground, to remember just how tall a number of perennials can get. So
That when you put a whole stack of staking in, and it looks like some kind of industrial wasteland, you know that actually fairly quickly the plant material will cover it. One of the things about that particular slope is that it is essentially south facing, which in Australia is the non-sunny
Direction, but it’s not exactly north/south, so it’s slightly skewed which means that you get a diagonal lean on a lot of the plants. And if you grow things that are topheavy like liliums or delphiniums or that kind of thing, they really do want to topple over. And so I use a combination of
Single stakes with circular keys on them that can hold stems. I use hoops. I often trawl the garden for twigs and stick those in, and make my own sort of hatchings. And I also use fencing – black
Fencing – which tends to hold very heavy things back. And when you look on the internet, and you think you know I want to find out more about sloping gardens, it immediately starts to talk about plants that have mat forming roots. Have you noticed that some plants hold things,
Hold in better and some don’t. Or do you think this is actually not very useful information. I haven’t deliberately planted anything that is mat forming, although there are of course mat forming plants that one just naturally puts in a garden. The trick I think is to mulch incredibly well,
Because that tends to hold a lot of water in. And the other thing is when planting to do some informal terracing, I suppose, so when you’re digging the hole for the plant, try and make it horizontal – so you dig the hole deeper at the back of the slope than at
The front. And with rocks or anything else, form a little bastion around the roots at the front, so that you have a horizontal little water moat, until the plants get established. And do you find watering is challenging on the slope? It is, if the bed is aquaphobic. If you’ve mulched well, and
You’ve put lots of leaf litter and the soil will absorb the water, then it’s easier than if you have a very very dry exposed soil in which case the water just tends to run off. Do you find when
You’re watering, you have to sort of do a slightly slower stream of water to let things soak in, or does the mulch basically help there. A mixture of both, depending on the plant, and how new it is,
And you know whether it’s on the you know “buck up princess, you’re on your own”, or whether it’s of the variety that you’re being a bit special to. And of course when it comes to terracing,
You had a certain amount of terracing here anyway, but you did some more. And would you like to talk us through this area, where there’s a huge great Douglas fir, and and it did just sort of slope
Down to this open lawn we’re on at the moment. But it was all very undefined. So what did you do there? Yes, it was part of the terribly overgrown ferny monstrosity that was this garden. Where
We’re sitting is in fact the old tennis court. One of the very few flat bits of the garden, although it has to be said that nothing is really flat or straight or square in this garden. And so
We cleared that, and found some very old steps that had once been there, and repaired those. But I’m blessed with a wonderful husband who’s very practical. And so to define the area he has taught himself dry stone walling. And so we have built around that Douglas fir a dry stone
Wall that then sweeps around the edge of the old tennis court, and extended one of the other beds, to give more definition to the slope. So that there is a hard edge, and there is a drop, rather
Than just always having this undulating garden. So that we now have a mix of the gradient and the flat. And therefore steps are quite important as well. Steps are very important, and if you haven’t learned how to make steps, you certainly learn how to do so after you’ve been in a sloping
Garden for a while. Because one of the things that Richard said was that you can’t get the heavy machinery in easily into a sloping garden. So things are going to have to be done by hand,
Which either means you learning to do it or paying quite a lot for someone to do it. So what advice would you give there? Well since we’re talking on YouTube, one might just say that YouTube is incredibly useful for learning skills that one didn’t have previously. But when we established
The vegetable garden, it’s in the spot where the vegetable garden has always been since the house was established in the late 19th century, but it was just a slope. And so Richard dug it out by
Hand, and I dread to think – he has told me – but I think I’ve deliberately forgotten how many tons of Earth he dug out to create three very formal terraces that are now paved and flat raised beds
And so on. And it was done because that’s really the best way to maximize the sun, in what is a very shady garden by and large. But also because of where we live, and the myriad of critters that
Want to come and destroy edible plants, we wanted to fully enclose the productive garden – both the vegetable garden and the orchard, which is just above us where we’re sitting – but it does mean that it provides a lovely contrast. So on a gentle slope there is now something that is cut in,
In a series of very flat terraces, and it just provides that contrast that’s aesthetically pleasing in a garden. And you said it’s quite shady – that’s because there’s a lot of mature trees in this particular garden. Yes. But are there any issues with shade and slopes that you’re
Aware of? Yes I find shady slopes easier than sunny slopes, because shade plants – they will seek some light – but they tend not to have the extreme phototropism that sun-loving plants do. So
I find staking less of an issue in a shady slope. And in this garden we have very rich acidic soil, so it’s a very lovely place to play with all the wonderful woodland plants. At the sunny slopes,
Tend to be the ones where you have to think more about the standard things that are difficult in sloping gardens; the staking, the watering, playing with the heights. The big border that you mentioned – what have you found the most successful plants? That’s interesting. Roses, I
Have found – although we do have a lot of critters that like roses, so I tend to put those in the middle of the border, hoping that possums and deer and wombats and other such wonderful things,
Don’t find them. I grow a lot of liliums, and they are quite successful, although do require quite a lot of staking. Delphiniums I struggle with, because they get to their magnificent flowering and then snap. And in-filling, I use quite a lot of salvias. I use persicarias, euphorbias, just to
Play with the mix of the shapes and so on. And I also use a lot of bulbs that come and go – spring through to autumn. And hydrangeas as well? Hydrangeas yes, so that particular border – which
Has a particularly sunny end, and a less sunny end – at the back is a row of quercifolia hydrangeas, which don’t mind whether there’s sun or shade. And it also means that as you’re walking along that terrace way, you don’t feel that you’re about to topple down the slope. And would you say,
You’ve actually probably tried virtually every kind of plant, so people perhaps shouldn’t be too worried about thinking “Oh I’ve got a sloping garden, I can’t plant this or that”. Yes, I think nothing ventured nothing gained. I think the only rules really are plant things that suit
Your climate. There’s no good doing dry you know grasses if you’re in a very wet area, and vice versa. But as long as it’s something that I think is hardy enough in this environment, I can give enough water to – although water is not generally our problem – I’d give it a go.
If you want to know more about how to plant on a slope, then don’t miss this next video called very appropriately “How to plant on a slope”. And thank you for watching. Goodbye!
21 Comments
Interesting!
Thank you for this. I am going to plant out my Devil’s Strip (the 4 foot space between my city sidewalk and the street) because it is a 30° slope and is impossible to mow. This was excellent information for jump starting that project as I look out at it through drizzle and sleet! I thoroughly enjoy your videos
This was so helpful! I have several large sloped beds that I am about to plant this spring so this is great timing. Thank you for sharing ❤
I live in an arid climate. If plants aren't irrigated they don't live. We can only irrigate so many plants because we have a limit on how much water we can use. Our slope isn't full and pretty like this. All well.
Beautiful video !! But the sound is a bit deficient 🙁 Maybe you should buy new microphones because the last video had almost the same issue. I really love your chanel and I wait impatient every week to the next video 🙂
That was an interesting point. To not give it the feel of everything slipping off.
No offense but I hate staking. If plants can’t stand up on their own nor can be helped by a Chelsea chop they go.
There’s hundreds if not thousands of plants one can choose from: imo one can make one or two exceptions for plants they really love but having to stake a whole border would be a nightmare to me.
She has a gorgeous garden! I garden on a slope, and I can agree that watering requires slower watering and deeper watering. My slope is full southeast facing sun and I'm in the USA, so it's an intensely hot slope in mid to late summer, and even early fall…it's a challenge, but I love gardening, and I just experiment until I find what I like and what works. Thanks for sharing this beautiful garden with us, Alexandria!
Ferns are great for a wet slope. They grow out of the walls of the old Carrie Furnace in Pittsburgh. The ultimate slope!
In my slopping garden I always terrace at least a pathway so as not to make it dangerous for a senior like myself. I flatten a path, shoveling the earth higher on the slope, and then plant into the path, so when finished there is no obvious path, just a row of plants. The reason not to throw the earth down is that one usually wishes to have good top soil up high. Top soil tends to move down so there is no point in adding soil there. A nice thing about the slope is that one can plant more fruit trees or whatever because the canape of one tree or plant shades the base of the tree above.
Great video, thanks
What a lovely, interesting video.
My back garden gradually ascends up into a very extreme gradient with trees along the top of it then woodland in the flat area behind at the top. It’s certainly challenging! 🥴I’ve never tried to “fight” it and making it into terraced rows would be a logistic nightmare, I think.
Interesting tips and to see what others are doing. When I put a new plant in, I do the little trough/barrier with a stone thing to hold the water there but I also water up behind the plant, so that gravity pulls it down into the roots below, instead of it trickling away in front of it, if you know what I mean.
Beautiful garden, and very good advice and ideas 👍👍
Thank you.
I am so enjoying your channel. I especially appreciate that you never speak over your guests but allow them to finish their thoughts. Thank you.
🌱🪴ENJOYED🪴🌱
It would be nice to introduce the 3rd being there rather then ignoring her/him. 🙂
I live in a mountain canyon at an elevation of 6840 feet in a pinyon/juniper ecosystem. I've relied a lot on terraces, but so far I'm fairly early into landscaping about three acres of the property around the house. I have found that working with a tractor on a slope is a bit dangerous, but if one is methodical and careful the tractor can be quite helpful. That said, I agree that there are a number of jobs that must be done by hand when it comes to slopes!
This was a beautiful garden on a special setting. Gardening on a slope – even a little bit of area is a challenge. Thank you for covering it.
What a beautiful garden. The video was very informative. Thank You.
My yard ends on a slope (not visible from the main yard). Do you have any examines for this type of landscape? I do want to cover empty pockets of dirt and discourage weeds and prevent erosion. However, since the slop isn't really visible from the 1st floor (it is from the second). I'm wondering if there is anything drought resistant that grows high and has a bit of texture. Thank you, I learn so much from your channel.