Edible Gardening

32 Veggies You Can Plant In February RIGHT NOW!



In this video, I share 32 veggies you can plant in February right now! This is the best time of year for growing vegetables, because we can start both cool season vegetables for our spring garden and warm season vegetables for our summer garden! This is the most important time of the year for seed starting!

All 32 of these vegetables can be started from seed in February, but whether you start seeds in early, mid or late February will depend on your climate and the days to maturity of each crop. Some of the crops featured in this video are best grown by starting seeds indoors as transplants, while others thrive by direct sowing outdoors. I break it all down for you in this video!

Also see ’25 Crops You Can Plant In January:’ https://youtu.be/1-gWF1F6tSQ?si=dW1tSB8pOiF2VvuB

TABLE OF CONTENTS
0:00 Introduction To Starting Seeds
1:04 Veggies 1-5: Nightshade Transplants
3:32 Veggies 6-10: Root Vegetables
5:21 Veggies 11-17: Brassica Transplants
7:40 Veggie 18: Celery
9:53 Veggies 19-22: Direct Sow Crops
12:20 Veggies 23-26: Annual Herb Transplants
14:42 Veggies 27-31: Alliums
18:47 Veggie 32: Warm Season Lettuce
21:42 Adventures With Dale

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If you have any questions about the winter vegetables, spring vegetables and summer vegetables mentioned in this video, want to know about the things I grow in my raised bed vegetable garden and edible landscaping food forest, are looking for more gardening tips and tricks and garden hacks, have questions about vegetable gardening and organic gardening in general, or want to share some DIY and “how to” garden tips and gardening hacks of your own, please ask in the Comments below!

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#gardening #garden #gardeningtips #wintergarden #springgarden

What’s growing on gardeners it’s the end of January here on the Southeastern coast of North Carolina and I know it’s hard to believe because it’s still winter but February just may be the most exciting month in all of gardening because now is when we start most of our

Seeds for our Spring Garden and on today’s video I’m going to share with you 32 different veggies that you can start from seed right now if you’re new to the Channel Please Subscribe and hit the Bell to receive new video notifications and check out our Amazon

Store and spread Shop link l in the video description for everything I use in my garden and awesome custom designed apparel and other gear your support is greatly appreciated now I live in zone 8B North Carolina but despite February being the shortest month of the year there’s a lot of variability within the

Month themselves things that you start from seed in the beginning of February is going to mature at a very different time than in late February so I will do my best to break it down whether you live in a more mild climate or a colder climate for the overwhelming majority of

You Fe February is probably going to be the month where you’re going to want to start these various seeds we’re going to begin this video by pulling out the big guns veggies 1 through five are your nightshades grown from transplant so those are going to be your tomatoes peppers eggplant tomatillos and ground

Cherries now as I mentioned the overwhelming majority of people living in the United States are going to start their Nightshade transplants at some point in February however there’s a good amount of variability there that is because most night shades grown from transplant take about 8 weeks from the

Day you sew that seed to the point that the transplants get mature enough for you to transplant out into your garden so for somebody in zone8 like me and in warmer zones like nine you’re probably going to want to start your night shades from transplant at the very beginning of

February that way they will be ready for transplant out in your garden probably at the end of March for people in zones 5 and six you’re probably going to want to start your seed at the very tail end of February that way they will be ready

For transplant at the very end of April and for people in zone 7 you’re probably going to be somewhere in between now these transplants that I have right here are some experimental tomatoes and this is what you can expect them to look like about 1 month after you sew that seed so

These can easily be up potted into a 3X3 in container and you can easily go another month and I will show you what that will look like now what you see right here is a tomato transplant that is about 2 months old it’s in a 4 in by

4 in pot it’s a lot more substantial this would be probably beyond the size that you’d want a tomato transplant to be in fact it’s already starting to flour you generally don’t want to see your tomato transplants flowering before you transplant them out into the garden that means that they’re root bound and

Stressed uh that being said this is more just an example I’m planting these way too early just to have as props for making videos like these to help inform you the other night shades like your peppers eggplant Tomos and ground cherries they’re pretty much going to follow the exact same transplanting

Schedule as your tomatoes for the most part they’re all going to mature about 8 weeks after you plant seed however it’s not a big deal to get them out a little bit earlier than that it is a bigger deal to push them Beyond a certain size

Where they tend to get root bound they won’t appreciate being transplanted if they get more than say eight weeks old after germination so please keep that in mind when timing out your individual transplants veggies 6 through 10 that you should plant in February are going to be your direct zwn Frost tolerant

Root vegetables and those are going to be beets radishes carrots parsnips and turnips now all of these plants because the root vegetables they do not like being grown from transplant therefore you’re going to plant the seed directly into the ground most people in the United States are going to plant these

Directly at some point in February but your location is going to dictate how early in February that’s going to be now one thing you have to factor in with these seeds is that they’re going to take about 10 to 14 days to actually germinate so whatever your weather is at

The time by the time they break through the ground you have to think of what the weather is going to be basically 2 weeks further down the road so here in North Carolina our hard frosts and freezes generally stop in March so if I were to plant my seeds out directly into the

Ground at February 15th by the time they germinate it’s probably going to be pretty close to the very end of February or beginning of March and for people in colder climates than I have uh most of the ground in the United States is going to be thawed by the end of February so

If you were to plant those seeds in late February they’re going to germinate probably sometime in the middle of March and then most of us are seeing a lot less Frost and freezes yes for people that are in extreme Northern tiers or very cold climates you may not be able

To direct SE some of these things in February particularly beets because they do tend to get burnt back when temperatures drop below 25° overall the majority of people are going to start planting these things out in their Garden at some point in February because they tend to not handle the heat of the

Summer very well so it’s generally advisable that you plant these in such a way that you harvest them all before it gets too hot veggies numbers 11 through 17 are brassas grown from transplant and they’re going to include cabbage broccoli cauliflower kale charred collared greens and mustard greens now

Timing is everything when it comes to these veggies so if you haven’t started them yet you may need to really get a move on depending on where you live that’s because the Braska family of vegetables are very sensitive to heat temperatures above say 75° or so can

Really make them tough Woody and bolt in the short order so they actually grow best when daytime Highs are in the 50 to 60° range now brasas are all tolerant of Frost and freeze however some of them are more cold tolerant than others generally speaking it’s going to be safe

To plant brasas out into your garden as long as you’re not going to see any temperatures below say 22° fah or so and it will benefit you to cover them with some kind of frost blanket or some kind of cloth if you think it’s going to drop

Below 28° so that’s really the decision that you have to make when you’re timing these things out now here on the Carolina coast I generally find that I need my brasas to be harvested by about May 1st so for that reason I’ve actually already started my second wave of brasas

That you see right here this is broccoli and cabbage and mustard greens for the most part so it’s generally better to be a little bit early with brasas and fight the cold than it is to be a little late and fight the heat now the overwhelming

Majority of the country is a little bit behind me so for that reason it will be just fine for you to start start your Braska transplants indoors right now they’ll be ready to plant out into your garden about 6 weeks after you sew the seed these brasas germinated about a

Month ago and they are pretty much ready to go but we have a big cold wave coming over the next two weeks so I’m going to delay and let them hit the maximum 6 weeks of maturity before I plant them out for you folks in very Southern regions like South Florida or South

Texas if you haven’t started your brascas yet you really need to get a move on it’s going to start getting warm very quickly in your region and if you do decide to start things this late make sure you have shade cloth on hand to finish your brasas under so they do not

Flour and go to seed on you before they are mature veggie number 18 is for the gardener that’s really looking for a challenge and that is celery I have tried growing celery twice and I have failed both times I’m hoping the third time is the charm now since I haven’t

Been successful growing celery I can’t tell you exactly what to do but I can tell you what not not to do first off the biggest tip I can give you is celery seeds have a long germination time you’re going to need to start them 21 days ahead of germination indoors that’s

Right they take 3 weeks to germinate indoors then you’re going to need about another 6 to 8 weeks to turn them into sizable transplants so it’s probably going to take something like 3 months of preparation to really get the celery going second celery is a cool weather

Season crop however it is not extremely cold hearty so the real challenge is these need to mature when it’s still fairly cool out but they can’t take those hard freezes I transplanted celery out into my garden last fall and they did fine with the light frost and

Freezes but once we hit 26 and 27° F those two back-to-back nights killed off all of my celery transplants so they just can’t take those hard freezes so here’s the tips that I’m going to give you when it comes to growing celery make sure you give ample time for germination

And get those transplants as large as you possibly can before you put them out into your garden then transplant them after the hard freezes are over but while it is still lightly frosting if you’re going to get a light frost cover them so they’re not exposed this will

Give you the maximum cool season for them to grow in your garden then chances are in most climates it’s going to get too hot for the celery too quickly get yourself some 40% shade cloth drape it over the celery plant so they can finish in an artificially Shady cool

Environment that’s the only thing I can tell you I’m also growing this variety called Chinese pink that I got from Baker Creek it’s supposed to be one of the easier varieties to grow but it’s still given me one heck of a challenge so start with this maybe or look for

Other good varieties for beginners and then just it’s going to be a lot of timing and trial and error but once I nail this I think it’s really going to be worth it veggies numbers 19 through 22 are your Frost tolerant direct Zone crops and those are going to be peas

Including English peas snap peas and snow peas your direct sewn Leaf lettuces like you see right here and also brockle Rob also known as Rini and arugula also known as Rocket now all of these things generally speaking tolerate Frost and freezes but they like being direct sewn

Out into the garden they don’t like being transplanted so for example these red leaf Lett uses like you see right here they like being grown closely together in tightly knit rows they don’t do well as transplants because they grow more as a row crop than a heading crop

Peas are Frost tolerant but they just can’t tolerate the hard freezes timing is everything when it comes to Growing peas these are leftover peas that I planted in fall but I mtim them by about 3 weeks I planted them too late they didn’t start flowering until it started

Getting too cold here and as a result you can see how burnt up these plants are and for that reason I’m probably just not going to get any kind of harvest off of them now it’s difficult growing fall peas because you have to plant them when it’s still pretty hot

And hope that you get a long enough fall before the hard freeze is set in to get a harvest it’s a lot easier to plant them out in the late winter early spring and then Harvest them in the mid to late spring so generally speaking I plant my

Peas at the end of February so they germinate in March when the frost and freezes for the most part stop and then I can get a really good harvest out of them in May uh before it gets too hot that is generally what I recom people do

I think these make overall a fantastic spring crop now arugula and broccoli Rob on the other hand they germinate very quickly and they grow very quickly and they are very sensitive to heat and when I say heat I mean temperatures of 70° can stress them out and cause them to

Bolt so these are an exclusively cool seasoned vegetable now both of them are best sewn directly in Rose and they like growing together very tightly so I sewed these a couple weeks ago and they are already up because it gets so warm so quickly here in the Southeast I need to

Harvest all of these things by April because it just gets too hot so I want to be able to actually start harvesting my arugula and broccoli Rob in late February and throughout March that’s the only way I’m going to get a good harvest on these very heat sensitive plants so

For that reason plan accordingly veggies 23 through 26 are your annual transplantable herbs and they include basil parsley cilantro also known as coriander and Dill cilantro parsley and Dill are all tolerant of cold but they don’t do very well in heat cilantro is by far the most heat sensitive and I

Actually like to direct sew these they germinate very well in Cold Soil and they really love the cold temperatures we’re talking 10° fah doesn’t really bother cilantro they will recover even if they get a little bit burned so you have the flexibility to grow cilantro either as transplants or direct Zone the

Only thing you need to know is you need to get it in when it’s still cold because once it starts getting into the 70s it’s going to bolt on you Dill is not quite as cold hearty I’ve had good luck growing Dill all the way down to

Around the 22 to 25 degree range depending on the duration of the freeze this Dill I actually sewed directly from seed but it will grow better from transplants and then you transplant it out into your garden once the hard freezes stop in the late winter early spring this is going to get pretty

Banged up over the next few days as we get an Arctic blast now parsley on the other hand that is very cold hearty these are some parsley seeds that I sewed directly and they did germinate but they are really struggling I strongly recommend you grow parsley indoors from transplant uh parsley is

Fairly sensitive to heat but it can grow all summer long if you put it under shade cloth or move it into the shade basil on the other hand is extremely sensitive to frost even the lightest Frost will kill basil completely but basil germinates in about the same

Amount of time and takes about the same amount of time to grow as a transplant as a tomato or a pepper plant does so for that reason I always start my new basil plants for the next season at the same exact time that I start my tomatoes they also love the same temperatures

Basil can really take a lot of heat in the summer and while it can’t take a frost or a freeze it doesn’t M temperatures in the upper 30s 40° or so for a very brief period of time as long as it comes back up during the day just

Like a tomato or a pepper plant can briefly tolerate as well so I like to group all of those things together and they all get interplanted out together in my garden once the frost and freezes stop in the spring veggies 27 through 31 are your aliums and that includes onions

Bunching onions garlic shallots and leaks now while these are all very cold hearty vegetables they don’t necessarily grow the same so depending on where you live and what you want to grow some of these you may be running running out of time if you want them to be successful

Now leaks and bunching onions for example you can grow them 365 days a year I grow them all throughout the summer all throughout the winter they’re very cold hearty they’re very heat tolerant and the reason why you can grow them all throughout the year is because your leaks and your bunching onions

We’re eating them for the greenery we eat the green tops of the bunching onions as spring onions and the leaks we eat the white central part which is in between the roots and the green tops you eat that middle of the stem so for that reason reason it doesn’t really matter

What time of year you grow your green onions or your leaks because you’re just eating the vegetation of the plant onion shallots and garlic on the other hand have to be planted at very specific times of the year that’s because we Harvest them for the bulbs not the

Greens and the bulbs grow based on the length of the day during the Spring and Summer the longer the days when they mature the better bulbing you’re going to get so for that reason I have to start my onion and shallot transplants that you see right right here very early

Because they are sensitive to daylength now here in North Carolina I have found that I need to start my onion and shallot seeds right around Christmas time that way the plants are ready to go out into my garden as transplants either the last week of February or the first

Week of March that way they will start developing nice big bulbs in May when the day length is at Absolute maximum and then I can Harvest them in June which is right around the summer solstice that’s when I get the biggest bulb the velopment when they’re ready

For Harvest Right Around the maximum day length of the year now if you are in a more Northern Tier than I am and you can’t plan out your onions that early that’s generally not as big of a deal because the days are so much longer in

The summer at higher latitude so it all kind of works out now I have made numerous different videos in the past that show you exactly how to grow onions and how to select varieties based on day length I’ll make sure to drop a link in the video description that shows a 25

Plants that you can start in January that was last month’s video where I gave you a lot of information on growing onions and shallots growing garlic is similar to Growing onions but with one additional requirement they also need lots of chill as well so not only does

Your garlic bulbs need to mature in late spring early summer when days are very long but you also need to accumulate a lot of cool chill hours on the bulbs when you plant them in the soil so here in the Southeast because we don’t get

Very much chill in the spring I have to plant my garlic out in November so they sit in the soil all throughout December January and February and they accumulate all of those cool weather hours to get good bulb development then I’ll be able to harvest them in late May early June

And I get nice fat bulbs so if you live in the Southeast or the Deep South and you haven’t planted your garlic yet you are running out of time because the amount of chill hours left in the season is getting really small if you haven’t planted your garlic yet you are going to

Have have to grow soft neck garlic because they require less chill than hard neck garlic don’t even bother with hard neck garlic this late in the season because hard neck needs way more chill than soft neck varieties now if you live in a much colder climate than I do like

The Upper Midwest or very far inland where it’s still cold all throughout April and May you can probably still plant garlic in the late winter early spring once the ground Falls because you’ll still get months of cool weather so for you in very Northern tiers you

May be able to still plant garlic if you haven’t already so when you plant garlic basically has to be fine-tuned to your location but no matter what you need them in the ground when it’s still cold out to accumulate that chill and they need to mature in the late spring early

Summer when the days are still nice and long and veggie number 32 that you should start in February are your warm season lettuces and when I say that I mostly mean your Romain types now a common mistake that gardeners make is thinking that all lettuce L Es are cold

Hearty and that’s just not the case while the red leaf lettuce tend to be very cold hearty your Romain types tend not to be in fact any more than a light frost can really damage Roma I can’t grow Roma out in my garden in our Winters here in North Carolina it’s just

Too cold this is a variety of Roma called giant Caesar that I have growing in this pot that’s going to be ready for transplant very soon once the temperature starts moderating Romain types are actually much more heat tolerant than your leaf lettuce types they don’t bolt as easily so while I

Need to harvest my leaf types of lettuce in the winter time my Roma I actually get the nicest heads around May 1st to May 15th believe it or not and you can actually grow a lot of these heat tolerant varieties of Roma all summer long if you grow them underneath shade

Cloth cold is more the enemy of your Roma types than heat is especially when you use shade cloth to your advantage or you plant them in partial shade or maybe even full shade in the dead of summer so believe it or not you actually need to

Look at your Romain types of lettuce as more a summer crop than a winter crop so that’s why I had to break these up and give them their own little segment I love growing Roma lettuce it’s by far my favorite type of lettuce and it’s taken

Me a long time to figure out the eccentricities of these different types of lettuce and this variety giant Caesar is really one of the best most heat tolerant varieties I found and I highly recommend it and that right there our 32 different veggies that you can plan out

In your garden in February now look this isn’t a list of every single thing on Earth that you can plan out into your garden in February these are just the most common items that you can quickly run in a Home Depot and grab some seed packets of or easily find online that we

Popularly and commonly eat here in the United States there’s tons of other things that are more obscure out there so this is just a guide to get you started and get you motivated because now is the time to plan for spring and even even though it is still winter

Believe it or not because there’s so much hope on the horizon this is one of my favorite times of the year so everybody I sure hope you found this video helpful if you did please make sure to hit that like button subscribe to the channel and please ring that

Notification Bell so you’re notified when I release more videos like these if you have any questions about the veggies that I mentioned in this video ask them down in the comments below and I will do my best to answer them if you’re curious about any of the products that I use in

Real life in my garden they are all linked Down Below in the video description in my Amazon storefront link so if you expand the video description click on the Amazon link you’ll see everything I use in my garden in real life and while you’re there check out my

Spread shop for custom merch if you want to support the channel thank you all so much for watching and I hope to see all of you again on the next video we have a brand new toy for Dale it’s a big long squeaky snake and we

Were just playing tug of- War come on come on get it Dale come on you were just playing tug of war like crazy now that the camera’s on come on what is this get it get it there we go yeah come oh no what kind of half-hearted attempt was that a

Now that the camera’s on Dale’s no fun oh I don’t want to play on camera turn the camera off and I’ll be so much fun Dale says oh you all right maybe later so disappointing so disappointing you stinker you stinker

39 Comments

  1. If you enjoyed this video, please “Like” it and share it to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching😊 TIMESTAMPS here:
    0:00 Introduction To Starting Seeds
    1:04 Veggies 1-5: Nightshade Transplants
    3:32 Veggies 6-10: Root Vegetables
    5:21 Veggies 11-17: Brassica Transplants
    7:40 Veggie 18: Celery
    9:53 Veggies 19-22: Direct Sow Crops
    12:20 Veggies 23-26: Annual Herb Transplants
    14:42 Veggies 27-31: Alliums
    18:47 Veggie 32: Warm Season Lettuce
    21:42 Adventures With Dale

  2. Thank you so much for this! I live in Winston Salem NC (just moved back) I was in zone 4 gardening so I appreciate this zone 8 greatly!!!

  3. Thank you for giving the context for different zones. I remember watching zone 9 and 10 gardeners years ago when I first started gardening, and I started my seeds in early February. Everything died, and I had to start again.😅

  4. Be careful where you plant dill. Dill self seeds so easily, my mom thought it was a perennial. I explained to her that her plant was just self seeding for years. I was able to find like 10 small plants in her grass to show her.

  5. Thank you for another great video filled with details as usual. You caught me off guard to be honest so I had to get out my seeds and get things in order to prepare for germination. I’m in south central Pennsylvania in zone 6B and my last frost is around May 10th. Time to get busy! Thank you and I hope you all harvest a pile of tasty homegrown goodness.

  6. Im in Northern ontario Canada – last year i had a baby utah celery survive -30 C under nothing but a glass cloche. I was picking it until it hit -40C …then it gave up the ghost XD

  7. I would like to try fennel this year. I think it would grow like dill. The seeds are highly beneficial for health. I think the bulbs would cook like cabbage. Let a few grow to seed to replant next year. Another item I would like to try is Jerusalem artichokes. I am looking around for some starts to plant and dedicate a spot just for them since they are so intrusive and come up on their own every year. I hear they can be fermented and that reduces the potential for flatulence.

  8. I am also in Eastern NC and I grew 23 pounds of celery last year. I planted 3 varieties in November and they spend the entire winter with a row cover over them. Mine survived the recent hard frost this way. I am hoping not to have as much as I did last year!

  9. Hey MG, Mark from Charlotte, great video as always. I tried granex last yr but only got very small bulbs, but I can’t remember when I started the seed. Is it too late too start now, or am I too late to get good results? Thanks!

  10. It is too hot in Hawaii to grow celery at 600 ft. I grow cutting celery instead. Thank you for this informative video on when to start plants in different zones. Peppers germinate best when soil temps are between 68-80. If you grow them indoors in a cold place they would need a heat mat. Cilantro likes temp above freezing but less than 75 in the daytime. Italian parsley can handle sun. Partial shade in summer. Green onions, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant can grow year round zone 11 and up Bulbs and garlic are better planted in the fall. September for onions from seed, October 25 for garlic bulbs.

  11. Thank you for the excellent advice and tips you give us in your videos. I’m a regular listener and have learned a lot about outside gardening from you. I live in Seattle and I have two 5 foot tall by 3 foot wide floor plant stands in my condo with two grow lights hanging from each shelf. Plus several windowsill, grow lights and a variety of heat mats. I wonder if you are interested in creating a video about how to grow vegetables throughout the year indoors. Which plants would be suitable and successful, and the ones to avoid. I searched, through your playlist, but didn’t find a video about the subject. Thank you once again for being an excellent educator. You’re helping gardeners all around the world. That’s a wonderful thing to do. Cheers sincerely, Ray.

  12. I will share something that I discovered this season. I have 6 weeks old celery transplants ready to go in the garden and I’m sure it’s because of soil block, 40 of the plants I started germinate and there so happy growing amazing.

  13. Thank you for very nice guide! I moved from CA, zone 9, which is high desert to KY, zone 6b. I wish to share my experience with celery – in high desert it was growing like a weed all year around. Celery stalks, not roots. It was flowering, then seeds felt into the soil and new plants start growing without additional care. After 5 years I had area around old celery plant with all new celeries which pushes away grass. 🤷‍♀. It will be my first spring season in KY🙂

  14. Suggestions about celery, MG. Apart from the fact that the germination percentage is rather low, many of the sprouts die for no apparent reason. Fact is, they’re quite susceptible to damping off. Try spraying a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide (1 : 8) in the water you use to water them two or three times a week. (Don’t use any other water until they grow to an inch at least!) Next, if possible, use a low adjustment on an oscillating fan 2 or 3 feet from the baby plants. That should have the double effect of reducing fungus at soil surface, and helping to harden them off .

  15. What & how do you feed your tomato seedlings since they are started in peet pods?
    How do you prevent damping off? I'm having trouble with that 😕

  16. Love your videos, Dale. Thanks so much. I live on southern Vancouver Island..zone 8 or 9a. We had a pretty cold latter 2 weeks of December but otherwise a warm winter. Are Fava Beans OK to start now? Also, is now an OK time to try rooting my Olive trees?

  17. Great information here! Last year was my first year starting the entire garden from seed and I started most stuff too late. I thought I was starting early enough but still ended up later than I wanted. I think you are right in that most gardeners think now or even next month is too early but it's really not. I underestimated how tolerant a lot of plants are of the cold.

  18. I love your videos! One thing, after 5:41 there is a bright spot in front of the bill of your hat but it stays stationary as you talk and move. I swear so thought my brand new TV had a bright spot. Freaked me out! I got up and got real close to look at it, even clicked off the video to see if it would still be there. I was relieved it was not my TV and ignored it. But it was kinda funny!!😂

  19. I need to say thank you for including the metric measures in your video. It really helps me, as I do not have to convert it all the time to get it right.

  20. Hi. Zone 5b (New Brunswick, Canada) here so will not be starting much indoors just yet except 15 celery ends (lucky to have my sister that juices celery daily). They begin to germinate from the center of old growth and start roots by placing in water. This takes 3 to 4 days approx. When the roots get going, transplant into soil plus the time you mentioned to mature for transplant outside.

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