Tips

Outdoor Garden Tips [How To Help Bees]



Here are 4 easy ways you can easily help out the little bees in your outdoor garden or yard. These don’t just help bees, but other pollinators too. We need honey bees and pollinators for plants and flowers and food, and spices…lots of things!

These are really easy to do and it’s pretty fun watching them enjoy the little bee garden. Things like setting up a bee water dish, planting the right flowers, or buying sustainable bee products. If you have an outdoor herb garden, or container garden, or even a huge piece of land, you can do all of these steps. 🙂

Save the bees! Or at least let’s make them happy!

I’m also doing a little repotting of a couple plants while I chat, so you can hang out with me.

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6 Comments

  1. I see less and less bees each year. I let my whole back yard turn to clover. I have planted butterfly weed and every year I see less. This year my butterfly weed has bloomed like crazy and not one bee or butterfly has been on them. For years mosquitoes have been bad but each year there are less to where its odd to see one. I have a bird bath I keep full of fresh water plus a waterfall running.

  2. Rocks at the bottom are something people will say is good and others say it’s terrible, I would say don’t so it, the reason being once your plants reach the rocks what are the roots supposed to grow into, also sometimes the rocks can shift and end up covering your drainage hole and you can end up with a root rot issue. Instead add perlight or maybe some bark or orchid mix since their mix is very airy

  3. Hey Stephanie (~8 Here's some info about growing succulents. I've been growing them for about 40 years, and there's a couple of key things to figure out.

    First, the pot. It needs to be in proportion with the roots of the plant. So that succulent hanging over the edge of the big brown pot needs a vastly smaller pot! Like 3" – 4". And the pot should ideally be non-porous.

    Second, the soil/compost that you use should be very minerally and well drained. I have a basic mix of loam/topsoil, sharp sand, and grit, in about equal proportions. If you can't get hold of proper, minerally, topsoil or loam, you could check out your local topsoil – choose a spot and dig down a few inches, clearing away weeds etc. How does it look? There's a huge amount of good stuff in natural soil, from good bacteria to mycorrhizal fungi. So as long as you see no other bugs in it, it ought to be good to use. For some cacti that grow on limestone, I use: ⅓ sharp sand/grit; ⅓ limestone; and ⅓ clay. I get the clay from our local subsoil – it's an orange/brown colour.
    It's really important that it's well-drained. You can make up a small batch, stick it in a pot, water it, and see how it behaves over the following minutes, hours, and days.

    Basically, you only need to put a stone or a crock in the bottom if it's to cover over a big drainage hole. Otherwise it's not necessary, and nor is a layer of grit or gravel. Despite years of tradition in putting layers of stuff at the bottom, any horizontal change in the soil profile slows down the drainage of water. There's a bit more to this, but once you've grasped the principals of it, you can get more control of your pot drainage. (Part of this issue is the "perched water table".)

    Sometimes it is actually worth installing a wick coming out of a drainage hole when you're repotting. You need to use something hydrophilic and synthetic, like some types of nylon cord, or strips of capillary matting. If you have it trailing out down (it can go over the lip of a saucer then down), it improves drainage immensely so long as it does not get clogged.

  4. I just found your channel. Very interesting content. Put a bit of plastic sheeting like a mini hoop house, but with open ends over your plants.You can slip it over the plants when it’s too wet. Kinda lets you control the natural water flow with an airy plant tent. A wild flower blend tossed around the field would really help the bees too!

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