My freezer is at capacity and I don’t have my canning equipment yet so I need to let these ripen on the plants as long as possible. I’m in zone 6 and my 10 day forecast has one night that will dip down to 48 degrees but our day time is still in the 70s. We also have the rain storm from the hurricane moving in soon. I’ve read that people pick everything off (even the green tomatoes) in September. What would you do?

by Objective-Archer1396

9 Comments

  1. btspman1

    Wait till you see a hard freeze in the forecast. I’ve had mine survive well into October. I’ve put frost cloth on for snow and cold nights.

    Are you in the Denver area? Because I am, and that’s our forecast too.

  2. WolfTrap2010

    Until a killing frost. With CC you never know when.

  3. Aintnobeef96

    We pull ours at the first hard frost, green and all and then they mature slowly over months (we keep the green ones in paper bags with a rope banana and they slowly turn red), when it gets cold out they turn red on the vine way more slowly though

  4. Trnava99

    I’ve used old sheets and drop cloths as a frost cover. Just make sure to cover the plants in the evening before the temperature falls and uncover them in the morning.

    Also, cut back all branches of the tomatoes beyond where the fruit is already growing. At this point you want the plant to put all its energy into ripening the existing fruit but not spend any energy growing additional branches and blossoms.

    I’ve never grown peppers so I don’t know if you should cut those back, but I do have friends who dig theirs up and pot them, then store them in the garage or shed all winter. They plant them in the ground once the soil warms up in spring to get a head start.

  5. Trnava99

    I’ve used old sheets and drop cloths as a frost cover. Just make sure to cover the plants in the evening before the temperature falls below freezing and uncover them in the morning. You don’t have to cover them for 40° temps.

    Also, cut back all branches of the tomatoes beyond where the fruit is already growing. At this point you want the plant to put all its energy into ripening the existing fruit but not spend any energy growing additional branches and blossoms.

    I’ve never grown peppers so I don’t know if you should cut those back, but I do have friends who dig theirs up and pot them, then store them in the garage or shed all winter. They plant them in the ground once the soil warms up in spring to get a head start.

  6. AtheneSchmidt

    I’m not in a wet or coastal area, so I cannot speak to the complications that may create. Nor am I a pepper planter, but I am in Denver’s 6a zone, and grow a lot of tomatoes. While the leaves are turning on my tomatoes, I haven’t had any issues with the fruit yet. I usually leave all of mine until the plants start really dying off, or there is something that makes me believe the fruit will be affected, if I leave it on. Generally I find that is closer to freezing. I start looking at pulling fruit at around 35°f, more often then just under 50°f, unless the plants signal otherwise.

    Check your Facebook marketplace for a canning setup, if you aren’t happy with retail prices. I have seen them dirt cheap on mine, full unused Ball canning gear. You will never regret having canning supplies.

    Good luck!

  7. topsysrevenge

    I keep them up until the first frost, or until all fruits are harvested. Just leave them. They’ll grow slower but they won’t bomb out just yet. My tomatoes have septoria and I’m pruning them. So not sure what will kill the plant first. They’re still flowering somehow. You still have a lot of nice green growth so I wouldn’t worry.

  8. I always wait until they announce the first frost of the season to harvest all the last fruits. Except if the plant is sick or if I’m too overwhelmed !

  9. galileosmiddlefinger

    I close down shop when the overnight lows hit the high 30s F. They can survive colder temps, especially with cover, but you just hit a point of vastly diminished returns. Most of my plants are slowly failing to blight or septoria by this point in the year, and the first freeze-adjacent night usually leads to rapid collapse in the following days. I’d rather harvest while the weather is pleasant and wrap up the summer garden a touch early.

    If you’re going to lean into protecting some of your plants to grow longer, then opt for the pepper varieties that you don’t eat while green. Tomatoes will continue to ripen off the vine. There is no loss in taste or quality if they’ve reached the breaker stage before you harvest them. Conversely, pepper flavor and heat depends on ripening on the plant. You can certainly force a color change to peppers after harvesting if you want, but the taste will be very subpar.

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