Weeds are a common nuisance in gravelled paths, patios and driveways.

00:45, 11 May 2026Updated 07:53, 11 May 2026

Close-up of weed growing in gravel driveway in a UK garden. Weed control and weedkiller concepts.

Weeds are a common problem for gravelled areas(Image: PaulMaguire/Getty)

There isn’t anything much more annoying than seeing weeds pop up in perfectly gravelled paths and patio areas. Gardeners spend both time and money making these areas perfect but before too long unwanted plants can appear. They can be harder to get out than weeds growing between patio slabs, as a patio knife can’t do the same job.

In an effort to find out how to banish weeds in gravel and prevent them, I asked two experts about the best methods. Connor Towning, lead horticulturist at Beards & Daisies, said: “Most people treat the symptoms without understanding the cause. Weeds in gravel come from two places – seeds blowing in and settling on the surface, and roots pushing up from the soil below. How you deal with them depends on which problem you’ve got. If the same weeds keep coming back in the same spots, it’s almost always a membrane issue underneath.”

To get weeds out of the gravel, Connor said hand-pulling is the most straightforward option if you have a weed problem in a small area. However, you need to ensure you get the weed’s roots out, not just the leaves.

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Make sure you remove the root of the weed (Image: Tosh Lubek/Getty)

Luke Newnes, gardening expert at Hillarys, agreed as he said: “Simply pulling off the tops won’t solve the problem, because they’ll grow straight back. For stubborn weeds, a targeted weed killer can help, but it’s worth following that up by improving the base underneath the gravel.”

Connor added: “For larger areas or deep-rooted perennials like dandelions and docks, a glyphosate-based weed killer is the most effective option — it travels down into the root system rather than just killing what’s visible above the gravel.”

The best way to stop weeds from coming back is to ensure you have a good-quality membrane under the gravel. Luke explained: “A lot of older paths either don’t have one at all or have a very thin membrane that’s broken down over time. Re‑laying gravel with a strong membrane and a decent depth of gravel makes a huge difference.”

Connor agreed: “If you don’t have a membrane in place, it’s worth lifting the gravel, laying one properly and relaying it. It’s a job, but it’s the only long-term solution. On top of that, make sure your gravel is at least five centimetres deep. Shallow gravel lets light through to the surface below, which is all a weed seed needs to get going.”

Once you have removed the existing weeds and installed a high-quality membrane, you need to maintain your gravelled area regularly.

To do this, Conor suggests regularly raking the gravel to disturb weeds before they establish. He said: “Keeping the gravel clean and moving is a simple habit that makes a real difference over time. The goal is to make the conditions as difficult as possible for them, not to eliminate weeding entirely.”

Meanwhile, Luke says gardeners must also remove leaves, soil and dust from gravel as otherwise it can create an ideal environment for weeds to grow.

If you have gravel driveways or a high-traffic area, Luke suggests edging. He said: “Metal or stone edging helps stop gravel spreading and prevents soil from creeping back onto the surface, which is where weeds often start. There’s no completely maintenance‑free option, but if gravel paths are laid properly and looked after, weeds become an occasional nuisance rather than a constant battle.”

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