I’m designing a garden archway, although at three metres long, I guess it’s more of a tunnel. Either way, the idea is for it to provide a lovely transition from one area to another, long enough to walk through and build up a little excitement. It’s primarily a way of clearly dividing two planting styles (naturalistic and exotic) but it also creates an opportunity to have scented climbers dripping over one’s head — fabulous!
Property newsletter
Inside Britain’s most exclusive homes, plus what’s really going on in the property market.
Sign up with one click
I’ll admit I haven’t put an arch into a garden for a few years. I’ve taken more archways out than put archways in, including a metal one in my garden that didn’t work with the new design. It felt a little superfluous, an add-on that conflicted with the layout and flow of the space.
I appreciate that archways and walk-throughs seem like a desirable feature, but before you go online and buy something pre-made or gather together the materials for a DIY project, I recommend working out exactly what it is you want to achieve. Think about the final look from the outset. It’ll probably mean getting your tape measure out, and maybe some sticks, to really nail your vision down.
In the meantime, here’s my handy how-to guide to help you get it right.
Design
Start with the question: why do you want one? Like me, is it to divide a garden up into sections with their own identities (perhaps there are distinct areas already, or “rooms” that have naturally evolved) or is it to create privacy? Is there a seating area on the other side? I like this idea as it combines form with function, as all good design should. If the arch is generous enough, you could even place a seat beneath, for a secluded shady spot.
Arches come in all shapes and sizes, from narrow designs that don’t cast much shade to chunky timber tunnels that do. Site one too near the house, or along a house wall and, while it may work nicely during a hot summer, in winter it could block the light and make your interior feel gloomy. Further away from the house is usually best. There are no set rules (although in a small to medium garden, I’d aim for around two thirds down) but it must be naturally walked through rather than randomly stuck in the lawn (which yes, we’ve all seen). Placing it over an existing path or a new path can work well. And how long should it be? This will depend on the size and layout of your garden. Short is fine but if you can build up a little tension over a few paces, all the better.
The next consideration is what happens either side. To integrate an arch successfully, avoid plonking it at random (remember, those who plonk are plonkers). If you can hop round it or cut across the corner of a lawn to avoid walking underneath, it defeats the purpose. Seeing the area beyond through the side of the archway does too. If possible, look to build up the height of surrounding planting beds to funnel the view; a hedge, informal shrubs or tall miscanthus grasses would all work well.
Finally, you should consider what you will see through it. If the archway is long enough, you want to have views out sideways onto other parts of the garden, which may determine how it’s made. The through-view, however, is key. The archway is a picture frame, leading the eye, so ensure this view doesn’t disappoint. If the garden beyond is beautiful enough with the planting and changing light it may not need anything extra, but maybe you want a well-placed eye catcher. This could be a specimen plant, a bench, birdbath, an oversized pot or even a sculpture. And do you place it on the centre line or slightly offset to de-formalise the look? Up to you.
Size
This will be determined by the general proportions of your garden and the space available. My only input here is that it should be generous in width — I’d say a minimum of your outstretched arms, plus a bit more. There’s nothing worse than having to walk through an archway when the straggly climbers are wet — you’ll get dripped on!
Style
There are off-the-peg products in all sorts of finishes and styles (wood, wirework, steel, woven willow etc) and at a range of prices. Wood always fades to grey. You could have one made (yes, it’ll cost more) but if you’re handy consider customising a kit or constructing one from scratch. Note that some structures are only designed for a few light climbers, others for more substantial long-term climbers, such as a wisteria or climbing roses, which get heavy with age.
Posts and planting
Most archway posts are concreted into the ground. Try to keep the concrete work tidy and plan planting pockets around them with good depth of decent soil. If paving around a post, work out the units so that you still have plenty of planting space.
My top archway plants
Climbing roses Classic. Many repeat-flowering and scented varieties. Go for climbers rather than ramblers.
‘Kew Rambler’ roseAlamy
Jasmine The common jasmine (Jasminum officinale) is a little unruly but can work well on larger structures. The star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is a well-behaved glossy evergreen and spot-on for an arch.
Star jasmineAlamy
Wisteria Fabulous, but needs sun. Make sure your arch is tall enough to let the bunches of flowers dangle while still being able to walk through. Train and prune regularly to fit.
Chinese wisteriaAlamy
Honeysuckle Lonicera periclymenum is a good one, with creamy white and purple flowers and great perfume. Prune regularly after flowering to avoid it tangling.
Common honeysuckleAlamy
Sweet peas Annual climber with masses of flowers (for cutting, if you like) and fine fragrance.
‘Old Spice’ sweet pea Alamy
Clematis Huge range, from the vigorous C. montana varieties to C. ‘Jackmanii’, which gets cut back hard every year. Clematis will usually need a little help, so may need some finer wires or mesh on posts to get them going.
Jackman’s clematisAlamy
Comments are closed.