8 x 12 Shed Kit And Materials List Used – https://geni.us/fx27

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Are shed kits any good? This was a question I wondered for years so I decided to finally bite the bullet and build one from Home Depot. This kit will save you a ton of time but I also made several modifications along the way that I think led to a better shed. Let me know what you think and if you are going to build from scratch or use a shed kit like this one.

DISCLAIMER: This video is for entertainment purposes only. Also, this video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.

how’s it going you guys it’s Scott with everyday home repairs and today I’m going to walk you through a complete build of this 8T X 12T shed kit from Home Depot now historically I’ve been a bit skeptical on these kits because they usually kind of skip on the materials but throughout the build process I’ll kind of give you some of my thoughts and additional modification there’s plenty modifications that I did along the way and you’ll see a link in the description to help you guys out and that is actually a link over to Home Depot which will have the complete list of all the additional products that I needed to buy for those modifications also I asked to pull to you guys a while back and said hey if you’re going to build a shed what type of Fasteners would you use would you use a nail gun would you just use a hammer and nails or would you do that with screws and 61% of you said You’ do it with screws so that’s what I did I use these three different types of screws and you’ll find these screws and all those other materials in that link over to Home Depot so you’ll see those in your cart which will help you out if you’re going to do a project like this or similar to this so you’ll know what products to get and then you’ll see right at the bottom of the video there’ll be a timeline that timeline is broken up in individual chapters which will tell you what part of the build we’re going over to help you out just in case you only want certain parts of the build to relate to your own project so let’s jump into it where we’ll start by locating the shed foundation and then making sure we have a solid foundation to start building that shed upon now there’s a lot of different ways to do this I wanted to reference the detach garage and make sure the back of the shed was right in line with the back of this detach garage so I just put a stake in place and that’ll bring a string over to the location of the shed I’m using the perimeter of the floor the 2x4s here 8T X 12T to serve as where that shed will lay out now I’m just taking two measurements at the detach garage and when those measurements are exactly the same I know that line is perfectly parallel and coming off which I can use as a reference for the perimeter boards I have here here for my shed so I’ll just shift those over slightly and I’ll know everything is lined up so it should be pretty easy we’re just replicating for this side and then we’ll have each end point for the three different 4×4 skids and we’ll be able to lay those out and start locating our concrete pads so what I’ll do is just temporarily Place each pad all nine in place use a 4×4 skid to get those exactly where I want them and then use marking paint to put in outline 3 in around that so a little bit larger than each of the pads I’m not digging down much all I’m doing is removing the sod here so once the sod’s removed I’ll be able to Tamp down the dirt and then add in the gravel prior to the block so it’ll take you multiple iterations at each of these pad locations you want to get the right elevation but also use that torpedo level to make sure it’s level in both directions once I get three in a row I’ll put the skid and then check with the four foot Bubble Level just to make sure thing is level and confirmed once I get multiple skids in place I will also be able to check across both of those confirming that front to back left to right we all leveled out so I’ll finish off here with our last three pads again you can use multiple blocks to save yourself a little time opposed to piling a bunch of gravel in that hole then once we get that we’ll go ahead and get the last skid to finish things off and then I’ll put the perimeter back on and start marking the locations of each of the floor joist now this starts to get into some of the modifications I make and I’ll review all those here in just a couple minutes so I’ll mark both sides and then I’ll go and start to cut some additional 2x floors to 93 in so I can have a little bit more structure than what comes standard within the kit so once I have all those cut we’ll go ahead and set those out spacing those roughly to where they need to be and it’s best practice to place the crown facing up and then once I have all those in place then I’m going to go through and just position two of the 3 and 1/8 of an inch long screws in each of the locations on both sides so the screws are ready to go and then once I have those all placed I’ll check my diagonals if those look good then I’ll start to set a few of these I’ll set three or four of the floor joist and then I’ll double back and check those diagonals if everything looks good then I know the floor is square and I can go ahead and secure the rest of these screws getting everything firmed up so I’m about ready to finish off this floor but I want to touch on a few of the modifications because there’s going to be many modifications that I make to this Home Depot shed kit that might be beneficial to you and you might also want to make yourself so I want to outline those specifically one I added an additional 4×4 skid on the front here so I didn’t just do two which is called out by the plans also on the pl your spacing is every 24 in here so I actually picked up six additional 2x4s 8T long I cut those to 93 in so I’d have 12 in spacings especially because our floor here is only 2x4s which technically I would prefer 2x sixes so I wanted to have that 12in spacing to give it a little more structure I added some hurricane ties I added 12 total ties to tie the floor in solid with each of these 4×4 skits I also purchased two 12T long 2x4s here on the outside and then I have an example because in the kit you actually get eight-footer and a four-footer which you’re supposed to splice together that is not going to give you a good structure having splice together 2x4s on your Rim joist there so I wanted to get one full 12-footer there and I just purchased that separately and then now I’m going to put down some liquid nails and I have to purchase separate the plywood for the floor doesn’t come with with the kit which was a surprise to me so I needed Three Sheets here I went 3/4 in pressure treated to give me a little bit more resistance to moisture and hold up over time and 3/4 of an inch which is a little bit thicker to what they call they call 5/8 OSB now if you want to keep track of all these different modifications and all the different actual supplies I bought I’m going to put together a full list so you’ll see a link right in the description that will take you over to everyday shed.com and this will be a complete list of those modifications additionally I think I found out a way where you can do a oneclick and I can populate the cart at Home Depot and possibly even Lowe’s with all the different materials and why that is one it might make it easier for you to purchase but two you’ll get many more specifications I just said Liquid Nails maybe you know which of the five different types of Liquid Nails I’m going to use well this case you will because it’ll be in your cart and you’ll see the exact details on each of those so let’s jump in and get the plywood on this floor so we can start building out of walls now don’t forget your construction adhesive before you set down your sheets of plywood and then you go ahead and screw everything down move on to your second sheet and remember there’s a lot of different parts so the 3/4 inch pressure treated plywood the screws I’m using that specific Liquid Nails adhesive is in that list right below the video in the description then we’ll start moving onto our walls and here’s where things start to really come together we have larger comp components coming together moving on to the second wall and it should be noted whenever I’m sinking screws on the ends here of these 2×3 and 2x4s I do use a counter sync bit to make sure that those aren’t going to split open as we sync the screws now once you have your framing in place then you’ll go on and you’ll start to install your siding or this external sheathing this is similar to like a t111 siding that you often will see on different storage sheds you’ll go through sinking your screws you’ll want to do the perimeter and top checking for square also remember we want to make sure the walls are square kind of during this process before we sync everything together now we’ll start building up the back wall the back wall and the front wall are a little short on framing this I would say is one of the drawbacks to a kit where the sheathing that external siding actually holds a lot of the structure and then everything doesn’t get firmed up until you bring the walls together bring everything together then things start to to Really firm up especially when you get the roof on so that’s a big difference between the kit and if you were framing yourself is the front and back really is a little bit light on framing now once I get this I’ll start to set these different wall components off to the side kind of in prep for getting everything in place so I want to get these off the floor so I can set the last wall which will be our front wall will build that out and then we’ll start setting things up now the front wall will have a little framing right because we actually have some doors and windows so it has to have some structure to it but again it’s going to depend on the sighting quite a bit for its overall structure like this top part is an example of that you’re just toenailing that in place and here’s some of the advantage is all these preut sections so that does save you a ton of time compared to you having to actually cut those out yourself uh possibly with a large router and just cutting those pieces off so now we have our walls complete overall the construction was pretty good I don’t like the front or back because the structure itself the framing itself is really just to hold the panels together and you don’t get that structure until you bring it in with the sidewall so it really doesn’t have proper framing so next up I’ll start standing up everything bringing it together and this is really a twers operation so if you have an extra set of hands now would be a good time to go grab them so you can stand up up those walls and then start sinking your screws or your nails now you’ll see the link for this exact 8×12 shed down in the description from Home Depot but I also am going to point you in the direction on a similar shed for a little less money now you’re going to have to do a little more work but it’ll be a lot more structurally sound with a little more proper Framing and kind of beefing up all your different boards from your 2 x3s going to 2x4s and your 2x4s go into 2x sixs so you’re kind of stepping everything up to just make an overall higher quality shed but for now let’s go ahead and jump back in and start standing up all those walls so I’ll start off by the back wall pulling it up and starting to sink a few screws in the bottom with a brace you definitely need a brace here as that extra set of hands or maybe I do have a Helper and they can hold it while you get the sidew wall into place sidewall is a little heavy so it is nice to have a twers operation there and we’re sinking large 3 and 1/8 screws on the bottom plate down into the floor system itself but also smaller inch and A4 screws through the uh exterior sheathing into the side of the floor system and both those are pulling everything together and then when you get these side walls in place checking to make sure everything looks Plum then you can start tying them to the back wall and the tying them together is going to be really through a lot of those inch and a quarter screws going through the sheathing into those side framing members of your side walls so starting off on the front you’ll see we’re doing quite a bit of that in terms of pulling those together on the corners with the shorter screws and then that starts to kind of pull things together in terms of the overall structure and now we’ll start working on some of these cross members what these will be is kind of a cool little feature they built in some Loft systems both on this back side because we’ll have this Loft overhead which is kind of right at 6t and then we’ll have uh much narrower Lofts along the sides but great storage overall so we’ll put two of these members in on each sh side checking to make sure everything is level and then once those are finished off and this also starts to give more structure to the overall shed putting these in place now we’ll bring together that back workbench area so again you need that 4ot level just to make sure everything’s in place and set before you start sinking your screws so now we’ll take and put some OSB on top this is for your large it’s it’s a 4×8 sheet area for that Loft system in the back and then about one foot wide for those side Loft systems now moving on to the Roof System we’ll start with the rafters there are five of these internal Rafters everything’s pre-cut they’re 2x4s and then I’ll use adhesive underneath these gussets where then I’ll screw them down one on each side using a 2×4 underneath just to support it and your dimensions are coming from that back wall because that’s going to match up to exactly what you need at the top of your wall when you secure these in place you’ll secure them by just toenailing in on each side and then putting one screw through the outside will go through supporting each one of these and it is good as you start to position each of these to also check your Dimensions you’d want these to be 24 in spaced and there’s nothing to really hold them to that Dimension if you’re not checking and then that will make when you put the OSB on a little bit tougher if your spacing isn’t correct so take your time and kind of check the 24in spacing to make sure everything’s going to be a lot easier when we start to put on the decking now any in addition to those five internal Rafters we will put some pre-cut 2x4s here on the outside of the front and back of the siding many would argue this is a drawback of a kit right you’re integrating your structure your framing into your siding you wouldn’t usually do that in a custom build uh and it doesn’t really get all of its structure till everything comes together which is not the case if you’re doing just a true frame job we’ll put a little bit of a trim piece on and this does start to cover up some of those seams that you have now we’ll bring 716 OSB this does come with a kit you’re going to have one full sheet on each side and then you’re going to have multiple precut pieces that then will fill out your whole decking for your roof system now you’ll see here there’s basically no framing to your sopit all you’re doing is attaching a 2×4 to the bottom of the 7/16 OSB and then that’s filling out your sof and kind of giving you a fascia board and then we’ll move on to trim pieces now there’s a lot of trim pieces and again this is starting to cover up the seams between the panels on the siding and also cover up the larger screws we are using because now you’re going to attach these with trim screws or trim nails so you’re minimizing the holes that you would have to fill should be noted remember these are not solid wood so you need to either paint right away or like me because it was too cold out to paint I started to put exterior all over to cover up this exposed wood to make sure moisture doesn’t get in and expand it and you can see that in this picture with all the exterior on the vertical lines trying to weatherproof it through the winter now I’ll put a temporary 2×4 here on the bottom as we bring in the door it’s all one system right now we have that board holding together the two sides so you can secure the piano hinges once the door is secur then you can move on to your windows I’m going to put down our sealant 100% silicone all the way around and then we’ll go ahead and secure those windows now on the outside of the windows there are several trim pieces I did have to do a little bit of a modification to these pieces just to get everything to match up I don’t know if that was user a on my part or if the kit was a little bit off but I did have to make a few cuts on these vertical pieces to make sure everything lined up and didn’t interfere with the 2×4 there on the Roof System now we’ll go ahead and install two additional pieces of wood here to the doors these are what we’re going to actually install the latches on and the door handle itself I do want to mention overall the wood quality was very high in this kit I was impressed and I wasn’t swapping anything out because it had knots or it had a crown in it so just installing the top and bottom latches here and that will secure the leftand door and then the right hand side will have the door handle so the right hand door is what you’re going to be really coming in and out of and it has a back plate that when you rotate at 90 it secures to The Backs side of the left hand door then we’ll move on to the roof system now remember this material does not come with the kit so you want to reference that complete list from Home Depot of everything I had to buy including this 30 lb felt paper that I’m putting down right now we’ll finish off the drip edge and then put down our starter strip completing the drip edge on the back side while we start to get the three tab shingles and lay down our first row you could do architectural shingles the three tab are going to be a little bit cheaper but it’s really up to you depending on your look and if you’re trying to match your own house so I’ll work our way across here taking our time Jumping Up on the Roof to finish things off and then once we get all of our rows on both sides we’ll go ahead and cap that off finishing off the roof system so now you’d want to move on to cocking all your exterior seat seams all these Batten strips here and all the different trim work you would do a nice exterior caul along the outside because you do have exposed wood there which if it gets wet it’s going to really start to expand for me I need to wait a few days maybe even a few weeks because we’re still in the winter months and it’s dipping down below freezing at night so the paint isn’t going to be able to dry so I do need to wait for a little warmer stretch now would I recommend this kit to you I think I would actually it came together really nicely and all though the wall panels are a little flimsy once everything comes together I think it does make for a nice Shed from a pricing perspective I spent about $2,100 on the kit and I had all those modifications which you’ll see down below in the description in addition to a link to Home Depot where you’ll be able to see all those products I spent an additional $700 that’s going to include everything from the foundation to the additional pressure treated 2x4s and all the other materials that I bought including all those screws which I do recommend investing in the nicer screws opposed to trying to use the ones I give in the kit which have the Phillips head bit and that is just not going to work these are going to continue to strip out on you as you go through the build process so total investment of $2,800 for an 8T X 12T and you can compare that to pre-made sheds and then if you want to do a custom design yourself really beef up some of those floorboards move up to 2x sixes which I do think is a great idea and proper framing for your roof and some of your sopit and facial board you can really kind of beef up the design if you want more Direction along those lines we did that exact build over on our new channel which is called everyday shed and you can check out this video right here well we’ll start to walk you through kind of a beefed up Custom Design you’re going to have to do a few more Cuts but at the end of the day you’re going to get a little better finished product so thanks for joining me on this video and we’ll catch you on that next one take care

28 Comments

  1. I bought a shed…delivered to my house for 3700. Fully painted colors of my choice, metal roof 8×12. the stores have found a way to make a profit from us.
    Shop around and do the math…its worth it. This guy still has to pay for all paints.

  2. And to Keep Mice and Rats and other Animals from Chewing their way in from under neath, Spend the Extra $$$ To put a Layer of Sheet Metal Down BEFORE you Lay your Plywood Flooring Down!
    OR Use the Roll of Sheet Metal, the kind Without the Holes, And Bury 6" Deep while Rolling it around the Base so Nothing can crawl under in the first place.. Mice and Rat and other critters can Chew through Wire Mesh or just Crawl through it.. They don't like to dig too deep tho.

  3. Thank you for making this video. My husband and I are definitely going to tackle this shed project together.

  4. Hi, what's the advantage of using the skid setup with 4x4s versus doing a frame maybe 2×6 or 2×8 mounting it directly on the block? Thanks

  5. When I first stumbled onto your channel, I was on the fence about it. But over time, you've kinda won me over. I really appreciate the information and detail you provide in your videos. You also have a relaxed, easy to listen to affect, which helps. It's way easier to follow than the guys who apparently drink a 12-pack of redbull before each video!

    In the case of this particular video, it looks like the kit, for me at least, is a bust and I think I'd just use one of the millions of better designs to be had for free or low cost and built it myself. A perfect example of that is the amazing work you guys are doing on your other channel, Everyday Shed. However, for those that choose the kit, I'm happy to see that you provided "improvements" and documented them so well. Thanks for another awesome video.

  6. Really well presented, thank you. Lots of good tips. Admittedly I live in a wet climate, but one mod I think I would have been tempted to make is to add a vapour barrier to the framing before installing the siding. Also maybe add a window in the end wall if planning to use the workbench, otherwise you’d be working in your own shadow all the time.

  7. I work at Lowe's and got hooked up with about 20 sheets of 1/2 mixed with 3/4 pressure treated plywood for $50. I want to make a 8×12 shed for my 2 atvs as they're taking up 1/2 of my garage space.

    This video helps me out. Im kinda debating on possibly doing a lean to roof to keep it simple.

  8. I like it, but if i may add, the hurricane rties wont do you a bit of good unless you anchor the building down with some duck biill anchors

  9. Would it be a good idea to replace the compressed wood trim securing the piano hinges with a solid 1/2" x 2" piece for added strength? I've noticed many of these sheds at Home Depot with doors hanging off because the screws couldn't hold once the compressed wood became soggy.

  10. So the kit is 2k without the the floor and I built the additional materials list and thats another $960. Does the additional material include the workbench and storage modifications you did to the shed?

  11. Nice video! I just finished an 8×8 similar shed to teach my Grandkids some skills. We built it almost the same way as the kits from Depot/Lowes weren't very well constructed and expensive for what you get imo. Looks like we are coming in at about $2500 plus whatever ol Papa decides to pay his non-union workers..:) Much more fun and rewarding than having TuffShed come in and build a shed for double that price!!

  12. After watching this video, now I know why these sheds don't seem to last. I'm wondering what the difference in materials to make one without the kit is? The framing definitely could be a lot better. Like you I'd rather have 2×6 floor joists under it.

  13. Excellent Job, Thank you so much for making this Video. I really appreciate
    you taking the time to mention all of the potential improvements and best practices. I built this exact shed with your recommended hardware and lumber upgrades. it results in a Far Superior build with the recommended screws and NOT the nails included with the kit. Also the Frame upgrades (use of 1 12 x 4 PT vice the 8 x 4 and 4 x 4) are no brainers.

  14. Great video. Why is it important to glue down the plywood floor? I'm planning to cut the floor into smaller sizes so I can remove the plywood like access panels. I've had too many issues with skunks and rodents taking up residence under my current shed.

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