I want to start the process of getting my lawn going. I realize it takes a while but looking for a good plan to follow. About now is when pre-emergent would go down, so I assume I should start there. But what is a tired and true good plan to follow throughout spring, summer, fall, and beyond in order to get the best possible results?
by Paguy215
9 Comments
The common lawn pre-emergents (prodiamine, pendimethalin, and dithiopyr) work to help reduce the germination of certain seeds… Mostly grasses and only a handful of broadleaf weeds. The labels will list which weeds are targeted. To prevent more broadleaf weeds, a specialty broadleaf pre emergent like isoxaben is required.
Pre-emergents work by preventing the germination of seeds of the target species. So in order to be effective, a pre emergent needs to be applied BEFORE those seeds germinate. For winter annual weeds (annual weeds that are present in the fall, winter, and spring, like poa annua), a pre emergent needs to be applied in the fall before soil temps fall below 70F. In order to prevent summer annual weeds (like crabgrass), a pre emergent needs to be applied in the spring before soil temps reach 55F. (In very southern areas, timing can be more closely tied with periods of higher moisture AND climbing soil temps. Consult your state extension service for more specific guidance)
Pre emergents will not kill existing weeds. Pre-emergents alone will rarely control a weed problem. Pre-emergents are tools to **reduce** the need for post-emergents. They rarely eliminate the need for post emergents.
The labels of pre emergents have many important instructions and use restrictions. ALWAYS READ THE ENTIRE LABEL. For example, you are limited to 2 applications of each active ingredient per year.
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I have zero clue what I’m talking about. But I was curious about pre-emergent since I’ve seen it a couple times. That kills stuff that is in a seed.
With zero knowledge of this stuff, it sounds to me like a bad idea to put down seed killer before laying grass seed.
I could be totally off, but that’s my two cents. Also, pre-emergent seems to only be recommended on established lawns
I’m currently tilling up my soil a bit, and I would guess amending it would be a decent start?
where are you and what type of grass?
Does the property get full sun, partial shade, full shade?
https://www.reddit.com/r/lawncare/s/BmdVtIrjqq
There are a few links in the about section where this is found. Might help give you a baseline.
First step, basic irrigation needs to work.
All other work goes out the window if you can’t water correctly.
Google up a lawn maintenance calendar for your area. It will have everything you are asking for. Should be on your state ag college extension website
Don’t worry about your lawn right now, worry about the soil first, all that visible soil is dead and likely very low in organic matter. Get some mulch on there like leaves, compost, straw, etc, even wood chips would help. Let microbes and worms get your soil living again then you can grow grass easily.
Not to hijack this post but what if I were to pregerm kgb/tttf, get it down and established THEN hit with pre-emergent? Will that kill the new grass? Southeast PA and currently on day 4 of pre-germing some Kentucky31 mix (it’s a backyard that dogs run around in, just wanna keep the crabgrass down though with the pre-em)
Honestly, I would just seed and soil the whole yard mix it up good and ensure good coverage