Join Jason as he makes a bespoke garden gate. This garden gate project uses simple tools and lots of skills to create a gate that will last. It opts to use traditional joinery rather than screws and nails, meaning it will, not only give you years of service and will stand the test of time, but will be solid and secure to keep your pets in and intruders out.
AXMINSTER PROFESSIONAL ALLOY CLAMP SPREADER
https://axminster.tools/4bwK9AS
AXCALIBER DISH CUTTER
https://axminster.tools/4cIUASM
FESTOOL ROUTER
https://axminster.tools/3RSNqDn
AXMISNTER PROFESSIONAL HD CLAMPS
https://axminster.tools/3XNsgdG
AXCALIBER MILLING CUTTER
https://axminster.tools/4bCD7uw
UJK PROGRIP CLAMP
https://axminster.tools/3xyzjMR
RIDER CHISEL
https://axminster.tools/3XJO8qt
VERITAS SAW
https://axminster.tools/3xQoaXC
½” STRAIGHT ROUTER CUTTER
https://axminster.tools/4boQ5vC
TITEBOND III
https://axminster.tools/4cCVArE
VIDEO LINKS
HOW TO FIT A MORTICE LOCK
https://axminster.tools/3xGA9Hs
MORTICE & TENON JOINT
https://axminster.tools/4eGzDJY
PREPARING TIMBER – MACHINERY
https://axminster.tools/3XVYRxU
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CALL (UK) – 03332 406406
so hello and welcome to today’s working wisdom going to look at making something maybe a little bit unusual you’re going to go I could buy one not this good I want to make you a gate that’s going to last it will still be there 10 20 years time we got our Timber main thing we’re going to use for this project and going to try and keep it to a minimal tools the router right most people have a router half in router few cuts are going to do all the major work so hope you’re going to enjoy keep watching lots of little tips and tricks in this one we’re looking obviously with this we’re doing plans and stuff you could easily adapt them my rough scale plans on here but if you want to download the plans instruction booklets go to this right so Timber as we’ve said we’re going to keep it to a minimal with the machines Timber w we bought this Builder Merchant stuff so Square edged if you like plain up it’s external material fantastic relatively cheap easy to get hold of you’ve got no excuses so I’ve got the length I’ve rapidly cut them to size going to get ready to go with the next stage so at the moment I’ve got the two uprights that’s all I’m going to work with to start with so it’s not going to get too confusing going to figure out where the motors are got to go where do we want them so I’ve got a length of 1,700 that we need you could Al to that as much as you like you can make it shorter longer whatever you want okay so got much tape these are at the moment 1,800 long so I’ve got 50 mil either end that I could leave I’m going to leave it on there for now I’m not going to cut to length right now I’ve already got a dot mark this end where I’ve got my 50 mil so I can draw a line on there then we’re going to plan out the joints on both end so we got our bottom the bottom rail is 200 mil wide all right nice and wide but I’ve got 10 mil for a Groove for where the panel’s got to fit into so we need to come back 190 do it down there we do our line we can mark that off so we’ve marked out the bottom 19 we taking the 10 mil off for the recess of where the panels got to fit in now we’re going to do the same right at the other end so this end we’ve got 100 Mil so we need to again take 10 mil off so we’re going to come back to 90 using the ruler so much easier to measure from there a straight line on the end instead of six different scribbles so we got our 10 mil deep for the the panel to go into you can have more you can have less 10 mil is quite an average sort of thing I’m just going to give myself a pencil line just here to help me Mark out things so this is going to be the pen line is the length of where our Morts is going to go up to this end the pencil line is just a guide of the overall rip for that rail we don’t want our mortars coming right out onto the top so we need to set that in so how much should we go 35 should be good so I’m just looking at measurements we want something here that’s going to add a bit of strength to the top so we got our 35 back to our pen so we know our mortis width area is coming in these areas there this is going to be the horn at the top that’s going to provide a bit of strength also means the groove is not coming all the way up through got to do exactly the same down the bottom on this R if you look at it that’s the width of the Tannon or the mortise one big Tannon here is going to expand and contract with moisture it’s going to affect the joint so we need to actually break this down do two oh let’s a measure we should have 190 there we come up 3555 let’s have a quick mark out 50 50 that’s a bit big in the middle still that I’ll bring it back again and again just playing around with sizes to see what looks right that looks a bit better let’s mark that on so back in with the square pencil through there so we know actually here when we come to cut them out the Mort’s Gap will be here there’ll be a small bit of a Grove another one there this is going to restrict how much that Channon can move it’s very wide so by having the two give us more strength so we’ done top bottom there’s also a rail set down 200 M from the top so we can do a slatter bit you can see through so if someone calls to the gate you want to look through it you’ve got that viewing point so we come down 200 M we’ve marked out 10 m either side of where right so we got 100 m as a rail 10 m back for the groove done the same the other side so I’ve got two little dots on here where just Mark that out one there so pen this one there and Pen that’s the width of the motors there we’ve got 10 mil either side where the gro will go so we’ve got to do a mortise in here as well for that rail to fit into so the major thing we’re going to do the jointing with and cut the mortises with now we can Bounce Around ideas you could do it by hand I can feel the sweat coming on already we can do it mortiser as machine if you have one we can do router cutter so we said we’re going to try and keep it simple so let’s go router cutter so we’ve got half in shank kitchen worktop sty cutter all right nice and long going to have halfin router so we’re going to load our cutter we have Kline on the shank that tells me 23 of that shank need to be held in the collet we nearly finished marking the joint out but if you want to see different ways of how we’re going to cut them you need to follow this link so we’ve got the area where we’re cutting our mortars into now I’m just getting pencil marking gauge just actually so it’s easier to see bit of a thick line there but coming down trying to find the center okay give me a Rough Guide for the center point now we’re going to cat it with a motar so we can line it up we can swing them around we could go with scrap it if you have something we’re going to go router so I’m going to bring the router back in on the ends on here there’s center line there’s your one on here so we can in a minute line those up get them where we need going to use two fences yeah I know your router comes with one you can easily buy a second fence not that expensive and once you have you’re never going to regret having it I’ve centralized it with the groove or the mark on the front we’re going to double check that in a second just to see where that is but that near stopping anything moving and pulling when we do the joints so in here just looking at where the cut has got to end on the end of the motage line now at the moment I can see I can get my pencil in I’m looking at it in a second I would have put that in I’m going to lose it totally now we need to be able to see our start and stop points for each of these joints so to make it easier we draw a line up on here that’s the top bring it there I’m going to come down to the other end there got to double check that but that looks right we’re going to draw a line on there now we have here have the other one down here so at the moment we’ve got our start stop block for the top ton back and forwards we need a depth how deep we going if we take the cutter down to the surface we can lock it off I want 50 mil so I’ve just cut a block of 50 mil it’s going to fit in here we’re going to plunge Cup going to go down move it along a little bit down along a little bit so we’re going to drill lots of holes to start with so we going about 50 mil can be just over that’s good that’ll give us enough depth to put it in so we got one we’ve got to reposition our start start blocks the reason for putting the blocks on gives you the accuracy of making your lamps and not having to try and guess where you are with your lines so that’s so much easier to do the groove’s going to take out any screw holes that they will be nonvisible so hence the fact we’re cutting the m is before we do the grp for the panels to go in so at this stage I’ve done all the Motes on the U right back F all right so this is top top rail the SE screen bottoms down there so we used the router done exactly the same on the other we used our setup block to give us our 50 mil I’ve cut another bit off it now give us 10 so we’re actually over solid material at the moment if I bring that down now the reason for us using something like a little Block it’s quick and easy and makes it repeatable so we got something now that 10 Mill put that in we can do our groove I can go back to the 50 if we need it which I will glasses a Ms extraction nozzle makes all the difference [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so we’ve got our grooves we’ve still got the other rails to do we got grooves those now straight cutter can be hard work it’s quite long we’ve used the same cutter do the holes and then cut the groove it’s a lot a little bit of flex on there you got to go careful nice and slow density change on things like knots will play a part in it it will want to throw the waist out and it’ll bind in the hole the fibers are expanding when they’re being cut other option slot catter you could do it freehand on the bench but better way would be to put this in the table and run those down so if you have the option of using a table that’ll give you probably a better finish quicker and easier to do at this stage what I’ve done I’ve been and cut the bottom the top and the middle rail right so all I’ve done cut them to L might as well that simple get them Square I’ve written them down to size so we got 200 near me 150 100 is the top so I’m just using 100 just to help support the 150 these two have got the grooving for where the panels are going to go there’s no Groove in the top and there’s no Groove in one side of that intermediate rail so we’ve only got the groove on the side we’re looking at we’ve also got two ight buttons to go in here so we’ve got a morst house so we need to cut the mortises so at the moment the router is set up instead of marking on the work bit I’ve got the scrap bit that I’ve just cut off so I can use that as a measuring stick at this stage so what I’m working out is where the mortises need to go to give me three panels that are exactly the same size okay so our panels will be95 mil if I put that down in here I can use my measuring stick and my glasses there you go on here we zoom in a bit let’s have a look on here we got the Channon line which is where we’re going to cut the Channon the line further over is where that fits into the groove I’ve got to include that for the panel don’t forget that 10 mil we also need 10 mil the other way so we come up to here the width here is actually 74 because the rails are actually 94 not 100 m they just a little bit under which is okay we can work with so I’ve taken 20 mil off of here so 10 mil either side from that group likewise we come again we’ve done the same again repeat it so we got those two intermediate rails to mark up so one there one there one that one there okay I turn it around should be able to double check them so on these bits now we’ve got the mortises to come exactly like we did earlier we can do the grave right so we cut the mot six now we got to make the 10in fit that’s the easier way to do it so you made the hole going to make the plug to go in it so laid it on the bench we have the three rails and I put them down on the bench so we can cut them all at the same time as I said we started trying to keep it to a minimal amount of what we’re using still with the router you could do table saw you could do MIT saw doing by hand whole way of different you know different ways you’re get around it so on this going to look at using the router so got router let’s just move that out of the way I’ve got the three rails that we cut top middle and bottom one on the bench they don’t have to be in that order they can I’ve then clamp them down so I’ve got some half stuff just really hold them down you could clamp them if you need to some blocks this was just easier for me to set up got a guide rail to run off I’ve got a Milling style cutter in the rter ready to go okay I’ve worked out from the diameter of the cutter to the flat edge here what that distance is and add it onto to the depth of the Tenon we want so I want 51 mil and then we have 37 mil from the edge of the cut to the outside edge h8 so I’ve set that back that’s where I’ve set the guide rail here too h8 mil then it dawned on me I want to make this repeatable I’ve got to do this four times and the same length so I put stop blocks in on here these are clamped down they held on so I can undo the guide rail take the work out put it back in another in the same place trying to make it a bit repeatable a bit more for now can save a lot of aggro later of trying to get it all the same the bar here extra support stop the router tilting that’s the same thickness of what we’ve got so when it’s on here got something just as a support pattern all these little things before we switch on can be really good to think of depth for cut I’ve got the groove inside here I can see when that comes down to what we did the the panel is going to go our Tenon has to be the same size so we can machine down to that so we know that’s our our aim at the moment [Music] right so first one done got this little bit of lift here this is where we’re down to the groove that we cut for where the panels going in that’s good that’s tell me about the right thickness nice straight line along here that’s good our support B work well by tilting the rter and angling it that’s here we can support back a little bit more so that’s a really good technique as we come further back we’re trying to get the flat run across that bar that’ll give us that nice Square Edge so one done so now we got to race at them [Music] right so we done other end we’ve got Square there Square there I’m looking where they come up thickness looks about right we’re just down to our groove on here I know the board’s got a bit C so I have to see we go so this stage got to turn it all around going to do the same on the other end all right so we cut the TNS I put them aside for a minute back to our uprights with the so we need to actually clean these out a little bit we’ve still got the rounded ends and I kind of what should we do we could curve the end of the tallenge it’s actually easier to clean these out so and there let’s Peg them just in place just to hold things now’ll grip it nicely 12 mil chisel we’ve got our pencil line CHS me where we need to be so we’ve got Morse and 12 mil let’s go with a 12 to start with we can line it up there isn’t a lot of material to come [Music] out so we clean those out next stage we got to fit T in so a couple of bits on here and I know we’re going to have to refine the tenons just a little bit so we’ve laid our Tenon in place where the right way up we’ve got the mors lower down on this side that’s got to have a tenning done yet so in here we got our points I can line up this side with my M that’s good and all I’m going to do draw a line there another weird thing I’ve done cut a bit of MDF level with the grave giving it a handle so we got some of the grip in I can bring this up to here right level with the shoulder I can do a right so across there and up to here I’ll move it around so you can see in a second I can bring it up this I’ve left Square so there there this one’s going to be a bit darker because we’ve got a knot in here so hopefully you can sort of done this is what we’ve got to cut away up to there our shoulder point because that’s the depth of the groove likewise on here because there isn’t actually a groove on the top of this so we made the horch so we’ve got to cut that out right so we’re going to cut those check them little bit out and then clean them up [Music] [Music] [Music] want it to be just a little bit tight so at the moment not fitting D so that suggests I’ve got a little bit take off here I can feel there’s a little bit discrepancy with the router cutter I’m thicker here than where the groove is just a touch here just going to PL a little bit off [Music] so we’ve cleaned up the tunn fitted them into the Morts just Dr clamp them together not too much pressure B them up two clamps put together nicely okay so everything’s good now we got look at the middle rails that come down through the center why not cut those earlier Le I’m guessing the size a little bit yeah we got something on paper we kind of got those measurements but we want it to be accurate I want to measure them when I’ve got something to measure not FAL sort of bit of paper with a few it’s like we want to measure measure so I’ve measured it we’ve got 1,55 mm so from there I’ve got 51 mil either side for the tenant so I put that in so we get 1,157 mm in otherwise this one two so now on these we got to do the same as what we’ve just done with all the other tanons we got to do our groove and then do the tanons on either end the grooves we’re going to do both sides so the panel go in so the reason for putting these in why not just have one big panel it will expand and contract with moisture if it’s one big panel it will shrink quite a bit if the wood’s not dry expand a lot it could force the door apart so by putting intermediate rails in that’s going to restrict how much it’s going to move so we’re going to have three panels two middle rails that’s how going to help add more strength to make last as well so I’ll get you back once I’ve cut those getting to that stage now where we need to do dry fit still got a few more mortises to cut few more tons so going to have a look at that got to put it together so laid it out on the bench how I want it to go now I got to see if it works so we put the dividing rails in so we cut the tons on there as they’re in they look okay next thing you got to do is the panels now the panel material when it turned up is unmachined it’s 22 mil fck rough on I want to make sure it’s in equal thickness so I can fit it into the groove I got to probably machine a little bit off either side and then got to Route round it to fit it into those slots which are half inch so just going to do a little bit Machining level those off you’ve seen us do enough machines so you’ve seen us use the planeet the fness going to Wiz it through there then I can measure them right haven’t got it all apart again got the detail bit now to do in the top I waited to an hour really try and find out what we’re going to do so go back to the people that want the G okay so have discussions on what can we have different ideas we can have panels we have so small side panel for smaller bars they’re going to go in between so going to lay those out so got the two rails together going to clamp them together so we got them equal either end got a few more mortises to cut let’s just bring that up and get that level that’s better clamp it in not about there then when to measure the I’ve done my maths uh I need 107 mil between each section so I’ve machined up or cut down one of the the last bits we had so if I take 107 [Music] [Music] just marking out we’ve got the width of our rail that’s going on then sit in a shoulder line I’ve come in about 5 mil 6 mil either side so we can do our mortise between those two lines then we’ve got a little bit of cover either side so the board will cover and we’re not going to get a gap for the rain to run down through so this is the be actually trying to keep the moisture out a little bit more work got a shoulder do either side once we cut our Tenon but it will look nicer so next stage we’re going to do our mortises in here going to set up exactly the same as we did with the router before we can do a plunge cut we can do mes on those lay them out together it’s going to be good and then we can cut the tannins [Music] right okay so where we to we just cut small Ms we cut the tons got the top rail let’s see if it’ll go together so [Music] in 105 we’ve got 10 mil either side so we want 125 for our short panel and it is it’s 210 let’s have a look there 200 so 220 long 125 so we can measure that in there long ones already measured so I’ve got those as a measurement ready to go so that’ll be the next stage get the panels done so hav got our gate we now need to do the panels so we got to fit those so they loose fit fielded panel we’re going to Route them both sides so they fit into those groups okay so these are little scraps you I’ve Cuts I’ve cut them all to size I’ve taking about 3 m off the width they’re going to ex expand and contract just a little bit right lengthwise not going to move very much at all so you can cut them to length all right so I’ve done all my measurements I’ve got my scrap bit set up but on here I’ve screwed it down it’s a bit of a weird thing isn’t it but it just means I got more access I can get to it okay so other thing we’re going to do this is really going to do a test cut show us how we can get them to fit that’ll give us the settings for the router that then we can cut the panels so really loaded the cutter on the router we got dish cutter I put the side fence on we’re going to move that forward and back depending on what we got to do so let’s just undo on here okay so we know we got our adjustment on here we can adjust the fence to alter the cut we’re going to find the depth in a minute as well that’s our first priority that’s the reason for using the scrap bit to give me a reset point on the fence can use some drills stops so these are collar stops so I can actually bolt it onto the fence so I can undo the grub screw load it on so already got one fitted let’s just flip this over and if we undo from here we can move it it’s in here what does that give me gives me a reset point up against the side of the router that that’s my maximum depth for cut that’s quite useful to do something a bit unusual so we said got this fixed down we got our collor stop on I’ve just check my depth I’ve got a pencil line on the end here just to give us a rough guide and this is what this is about is trying to set that up for the height and get our possession once we have that we can make it repeatable so whiz around those panel so this cut isn’t full dep little bit tricky because it’s quite small so ear muffs [Music] then on here we want to go longer depth this way so we undo here up to that collar stop on here take it up [Music] so quick test fit at the moment still got a little bit pencil line think it probably see just got that it shouldn’t fit probably going to be a bit tight got better corner it’s got small chip out in there that’s a bit tight at the moment so we know we can come down a bit more depth [Music] [Music] [Music] all right so we’ve got our door dry fitted together we put it that in we’re just double checking those panels fit nicely so now we’re going to start looking at gluing up and this is weird because lots of oh got to glue it up we’re going to break it into little stages so I’m going to do top bit then we can glue the middle round put those in then we glue the outside if we try and do it in one mad go you’re not going to pull everything up nicely I’ve also lost places where I might be able to get pressure so here one of the short rails I need to pull in a little bit can’t get a clamp onto that haven’t got anything long enough so if we break it down we do that bit we can pull that up nicely it would look a lot better going to take you a little bit longer but you spend all this time so far want to make it a nice job [Music] e [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] all right so that big glue up session three stages why it’s pretty warm in here today got to make sure we get everything together pull it together don’t want to fight it too much all right we’ve obviously gone with an exterior glue what we got to go next stage sand it get it level there’s a bit discrepancy on the thickness of the material so we can sand that in at the moment going to leave the hunches till we go off and it’s fitted so those are the bits that hang either end to stop you damaging the door okay or your gate so they can be trimmed so that’s why we got a little bit e end here got our panels in so really it’s that big sand thing and then we’ll get it ready to kind of go out be fitted now we’ve got here the gates arve safely we can cut those horns off the again because they stop it getting damaged while we’re in transit and making it now we’re here as we said we can lose them so we set the sew up clamped it on we could do this by hand so at this stage we’ve got the hinges quite simple to add these on put them on we’ve still got to fit the gate inside that opening so we’ve got to chest it but to do so ideally need the hinged on so what we’re going to do is drill these we’re going to use centering drill so that’ll give us a nice clean hole we’re going to fit two screws at the moment no point doing all of them because we got to adjust it you don’t want all those holes making so that’s our first bit I also want to offset a little bit so I’ve used one of the guys from the keyhole jig or from the door lock jig just going to put that in there I can line it up Square on the side and we said two holes one two [Music] all right so we’ve got it in position I’ve clamped up one top corner just with a clamp I can get it on there want to set it up so I got a sort of equal Gap either side we come up enough to make sure we’re going to clear anything underneath get it level I’ve checked down the side we’ve got a level on as well so now at this stage just again going to Temporary tack down that side two screws and each of the hinges check where it clears [Music] to so we’re in position we got it hung on the hinges it swings nicely it’s not binding on it anything next thing we’re going to put the lock in place so I’ve taken that out until we get here again it’s less things to catch yourself one way working so I can put that in we can even put a handle one if we like then we’re going to do the lock to go into the frame to make sure it locks [Music] properly so we got our lock we need to test this off it now we have this curve platform around here so we got to soften that and everything else seems to fit in there apart from that curve so go back to one of my favorite things Japanese R just going to take that corner off just a little [Music] bit so there you go simple gate project was made really in reality with one router right you could do it other ways but think you think looks quite nice we’ve got a lot working go there so everything’s done I’ve got to go now bye then hopefully you’ve enjoyed this is a project something a little bit different so give us the Thumbs Up Hit That subscribe button to see what’s coming up soon all right so a simple gate what else can we make