The Freight Yard development and progress with landscape support structure are tackled in Chadwick Model Railway 216.
Patreon Link. https://www.patreon.com/bePatron?u=15400635
Donation Link. https://paypal.me/ChadwickModelRailway
Accurascale affiliate link.
https://www.accurascale.com/chadwickmodelrailway
YouTuber’s Course
Sunday 12th May, Davis Hall, West Camel, Near Yeovil, BA22 7QX.
£50. For details email chadwickmodelrailway @ gmail.com
West Hill Wagon Works Lighting.
https://westhillwagonworks.co.uk/?affilliate_id=123
My Amazon Shop
https://www.amazon.co.uk/shop/chadwickmodelrailway
My Amazon Links.
Track View Camera https://amzn.to/3UTf7OU
Dremel Cordless https://amzn.to/3IiMPWz
Sculptamold https://amzn.to/2Wh5RGr
Woodland Scenics Plaster Cloth https://amzn.to/3ENetct
16 Volt 2.5 amp transformer https://amzn.to/3KsJ17r
Plug-in Connectors https://amzn.to/3HvKvvG
Wago Connectors https://amzn.to/3kcWLb7
12 way Terminal Block https://amzn.to/39IZNd5
DCC Concept Wire Stripers https://amzn.to/3UFLCfy
WERA Screwdriver set https://amzn.to/2ZX0VJu
3mm Cork Roll https://amzn.to/3DTDGTn
Digital Spirit Level https://amzn.to/394f1LT
Brother ID Sleeve Printer https://amzn.to/3l7xmKL
Plug-in Terminal Blocks https://amzn.to/2zjyA3L
Heat Shrink Tubing Kit https://amzn.to/31CPA3a
Layout Transformer https://amzn.to/3CuzF3g
WS Plaster Cloth https://amzn.to/2Zkm411
WS Smooth-it https://amzn.to/3aZ8IcK
WS Paving Tape https://amzn.to/3E7bLfv
Foam Cutting Pen https://amzn.to/3mS7Gqn
Hand Held Vacuum Cleaner https://amzn.to/3dmLekg
Bosch Hot Glue Gun https://amzn.to/2VWtK6X
Countersink Drill Combo https://amzn.to/2Z8R6Fj
Rotacraft Screwdriver https://amzn.to/3esNgxB
Swiftnut https://amzn.to/2TZ4GJ0
Gaugemaster Track Tester https://amzn.to/3eAbKp0
Ferrule Crimping Tool https://amzn.to/2TpJ4FU
8 way Terminal Block https://amzn.to/2Q7NxeJ
Magnetic Clamps https://amzn.to/2Nczc0y
Makita Drill https://amzn.to/2ZSJaLr
Polystyrene Cutter https://goo.gl/GpWgWp
Iwata Airbrush https://goo.gl/P1ABXd
Compressor https://amzn.to/2MKItc1
Com Art Paints https://amzn.to/2KFuDKn
Laser level https://amzn.to/2KRA5Y9
Helping Hand https://amzn.to/2qOt0Oy
Optical Visor https://goo.gl/ljSzBi
Magnifier Table Lamp https://goo.gl/seg8Dj
Fire Extinguisher https://amzn.to/34FEBCN
First Aid Kit https://amzn.to/2AhaWSk
Video Gear
Sony FDR-ax 700 4K Camcorder https://amzn.to/2URAYto
Lapel mic https://amzn.to/2ERkjtS
Zoom H1 Audio Recorder https://amzn.to/2O0CgKZ
Rode Microphone. https://amzn.to/2E7bc84
Sony camcorder. https://amzn.to/2SX1Y8z
Adobe Premier Elements.
DCC Shortcut Sheet
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZQJTzdfXyKmn-I9Ka_bWHGJcCFd-QO2B/view?usp=sharing
Scale Train Length Calculator
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1DRNUnG2vdiGCckVGA2pxVU2eiGR3ypzN/edit?
Chadwick Videos Spreadsheet
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1XsgfhM5SbUUdZwohwOSCoVNlNjrHzIdd/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=101315420304868521884&rtpof=true&sd=true
This time we start the track laying in the freight yard we also build some support structure for one of our hillsides and we even go shopping in a model Railway shop hi welcome back to Chad model Railway I’m Charlie and in this video we’ll be looking at progressing the
Track Lane in the upper Freight yard and also laying some protective screening around the back of uh some hillsides on on the back of the TMD both of which you’ll find hopefully find interesting but before that a couple of Parish notices in the first one is a thank you
To Dave Lucas a Canadian subscriber who very generously sent Margaret my wife some maple syrup as a Goodwill sort of Christmas gesture now sadly Dave posted this in November and it arrived 3 months 3 days later because it’s now towards the end of February Dave I can only
Apologize for heo airport or wherever it’s been sat in bottom of some sort of cradle or bin or whatever I actually phoned up Dave the other day and thanked him personally but Dave thank you very much I just I’m I’m just so apologetic it took so long to come rest assured
There’ll be some ice cream coming out and we’ll put it to good use and before we move on the YouTubers course which I’ve got planned for the 12th of May uh on a Sunday I’ll provide lunch there are three places left if you’d like to join us and the guys that
Came on the January course have seen considerable growth with their subscriber and watchtime count so if it’s the thing that you’re interested in then there’s a link in sorry there’s a the details are in the show more tab so have a look in there and perhaps uh drop me an email at CH
Chadrick at chadrick model Railway gmail.com right let’s crack on now here we have the hillside a substantial structure at the foot of the TMD and I’m sure you’ve seen in previous videos I’ve made it out of celotex um and built it up with um sculp to mold
And plaster cloth and the like but here I’ve left a a gap from one layer of celotex to give access into track cleaning clearing away derailed class 37s or whatever um but at the end of the day we need now need to finish this off so it looks half decent but still m
Maintain access for maintenance and also a mistake I’ve made in this area here there is no access so I intend to cut a similar hole as this one much smaller in this area to give me um access sort of left and right of here so what Commodities exist for me to cover this
Up with well traditionally I think we would have used hardboard but there is some uh a product around which is basically um MDF and and it has as you can see Cuts in it which allows it to bend now I bought this sheet which is 4T
By 2T from um Wix a a UK DIY store you can also get it from the larger um branches of B andq they also sell it it’s not cheap I think that piece there was something like 26 what am I going to do with it well
The first thing I need to do is cut it in half long ways because it will need to come around here and there’ll need to be a join somewhere because that the length this is longer than 4T as it were this actually 7t long so we’ll probably
Have a short length then a join and the rest of it around there um but it does need to be finished off cuz this is prone to damage and of course we don’t want it to look like that we want it to look sort of reasonably neat so I think
We’ll do some measurements take that piece of um MDF down the garage and and get out the old jigsaw now a serious word of warning the dust from cutting MDF really is hazardous you don’t want to get this stuff in your lungs so you do need some form of [Applause] Protection Now on this piece of MDF I’ve measured out a line that’s 9 mm up from the bottom because the board itself is 18 mil ply so hopefully then when I draw through I’ll be running straight into the center of the plywood and I’ve marked them out it’s sort of 6 in or 150
CM so that will then secure it to here of course securing it to there I can then Mark out where to cut this hole and also to trim down the top Edge because that obviously won’t be the exact same Contour as the top of the Hillside and for the screws I’ve used
3.5 mm by 30 mm screws and I’m surrounded with a load of black and not black and what they called Makita drills and all the rest of the stuff so I shall set about screwing in the first one and see how we get on trouble is I need a second person
Really to uh to hold it still while I mark it up but that’s not the case today hopefully when I got the first couple in it should go a little bit more Easier okay and obviously underneath here I’m keeping it flush with the bottom of the ply right I shall progress on well it’s on but it certainly wasn’t as easy as I’d hoped there seems to be some Distortion in this board um but hey
It is what it is so now I need to Mark out where to cut the hole in here so I’ve got that Mark from the top and hopefully if I can keep these right I also need to Mark out now the edge of the board because the surplus of the scenic
Side needs to be removed right take it all off back to the garage cut the hole trim that and we’ll be good to go fingers crossed well as you can see time has moved on we have our opening here um although there is quite a bit of
Gap between the MDF and the hill size and again around here obviously the hillside isn’t vertical so it kind of stands out but this is where it leads me into my next plan and that’s a lot of gluing one point worth mentioning about the using a jigsaw is when you cut the
Cut a panel sort of in in mid a sort of a you know in the middle of the panel they cut quite cleanly however if you cut just the edge and you’re just trying to sort of trim the edge off it splinters and it just tears
It to bits as you can see along this edge here so what’s my next plan well I need to do a little bit of packing so I’m going to glue in a couple of strips in here just to pack that out and then I’m going to remove all of these panels
And then add um Gorilla Glue to the bottom Edge and then screw them back on and then hopefully overnight um that will take and I’m also going to pack out the gaps here with sticks like which is another sort of um what we say a high intensity kind of glue really a high-end
Glue and then hopefully all this then we’ll be stuck to the hillside in the morning I have made mistakes like this before making promises for the morning um anyway I’ll shall get the old glue out whp it on and see how I get on now this is the sticks like and
Obviously I want to get it to do is stick to the cellex but we’ll um we’ll just have to see how we get on with that really I mean where there’s a big gap then clearly it won’t fill the gap now I have a bit Fair bit of Separation here and my cunning
Plan is to pack it with glue and then push this in the way and then push this in now there’s nothing I can do for clamps but I have as usual a plan whether it works or not of course okay let’s see right now this is my old photographic
Monopod so I thought if I push that against there and down against here it might work so all we can do we come back in the morning and see if that’s done its stuff there’s still a large gap along here but um well nothing that a drop of filler w’t sort
Out as usual it’s now the following morning and I popped up yesterday evening and just put some more filler and some more sticks like along the top Edge just to take out some of the sort of undulations and make sure it was sort of sticking better which it appears it
Has oh and uh managed to get some glue and ruin a perfectly good polo shirt hey ho um so my plans now are to remove the screws um and then just check that the gorilla wood glue has held this stuff in position the rest of it is seems to be
Glued and nice and sturdy so I remove the those screws pop a little bit of filler in there to take the to hide the holes then eventually paint the whole thing black and then sort of it will become part of the landscape as it were rather than that raw cell text that we
Saw Earlier it was this join here between the two panels that was always going to be my worry bead but it’s seems absolutely solid lovely well as you can see I’ve put a bit of filler over the holes and rubbed it down so now it’s just a case of
Putting the first coat of matte black matte black paint on it and see how it looks and this is the normal um black children’s poster paints that I buy from Hobbycraft at a pound a bottle you can’t deny that certainly looks a a little different so now we’re switching to
Revel’s yard that is our fret yard at the top of the layout over there you can see our little class 25 dying to get in so we need to connect it up and get some track laid now the plan was drawn up by a guy called Shawn Lawless and I
Extremely grateful to sha um and as you can see it’s printed out uh from any rail on A4 sheets and then a masked cell tape job to put it together lovely underneath this board here I’ve now put in some um I think it was 3 mil Cork and
Painted it a dark brown horrible color and there’s two boards here because on this board here I haven’t done that just yet as you can see there this board will be built after this one so I do them one at a time away from the layout
Now as I’m starting to sort of put this together now in my own mind and with with much more seriousness I have a problem with a point here because this is a Pico set track curved point which is an insulated has an insulated frog that means you can have running issues
Especially if you’re using shunters you you know 060 or 04’s well this is a shant’s paradise so we are going to have those problems so I’m going to switch that point out but let me show you on the N Rail plan how I intend to do
It so here we are in any Rail and this is similar to Sha’s original uh track plan except we changed two points that was here and here and popped in a double slip because that would allow a loco to come from the head shunt through here
And then run up into this siding here and wait its next allocation so what appears to be the problem so the problem is this point here this as I said is a picco code 100 set track curved point with an insulated frog this uh curve here is very
Sharp well if I take it out what can I put in well I certainly can’t put in a code 100 uh streamline curved point because it won’t fit this line here then would be coming off the off here into the wall right so we must have another
Plan then well let’s switch that one to a minor change that I’ve made and I’ve replaced that curved point with a medium radius right hand Point electr frog I ought to mention and then we’ve got a reasonably sort of radius 3 curve then coming up here to join up with the
Incoming track from the little bow stream Bridge we also have now a small siding here which can take um a small sort of Bobo hch Type 25 uh warship type locomotive in here but we’ve also lost of course a longer head shunt that was running up here but I think it’s the
Only sort of safe way of doing it so if I just switch back from one to the other so there you can see the previous and this is now the current so there we are well enough of talking about it I suppose you ought to get on and build
It now I’ve laid out the track that I own so I have a three-way point I have already a double slip but this one was bought for a mega 2150 considerably cheaper than you’ll buy it from the shops let say why was it so cheap well it was a a train fair and
Both of the Springs have been removed which isn’t a problem because I use slow action point motors which don’t require Springs lovely and I have a right hand U medium radius to go in there and a couple of bits of track down the other end you can see there’s a another
Three-way point and another uh medium radius right hand also you can see there that the corresponding left hand point is missing so I need to buy one of those and then back up here I I need to buy a double slip and another left hand so two leftand medium radius electr frog points
And one code 100 double slip oh and some CH cork chalk and some cork for that board there right let’s jump in the car and go to buffers to get to buffers you go down the a358 that is between chard and axminster it’s about four or five miles north of
Axminster and it’s owned by Maria backed up by Mike her helpful assistant and in there they really they stock all the the usual Brands but they are a very friendly local model Railway shop use them or lose them Doing well I’m back for my little Drive in the countryside and I have my three points and my little roll of cork so what do I want to do next well the next thing for me to do is a little re Revelation really the first I need to do is I’ve
Cut this track plan in half now and if I just take out this board I can show you the next issue because it’s all to do with Point Motors now I’m a strong believer in using toris Point Motors but also on the market from MTB is the
Mp10 and as you can see it’s got the same sort of um form factor it has the same base plate as it were and obviously MTB are bringing this out in direct competition to toris so should you have a toris fail you can whap one of these
In their place all makes sense doesn’t it now my problem is this extension has 12 points or 12 point Motors I should say and a lot of them are going to come above the track now clearly you can see here that there is very little clearance so the mp10 has to be the
Weapon of choice let’s say because there’s absolutely no way in the world that I can get these under there so I have purchased 12 of these from DCC train Automation and I shall let you know how I get on now here is my next dilemma how to get the track on the
Baseboard in the right place because if you take the paper off you don’t know where it goes so what I’ve done is I’ve cut the paper in a couple of sections and I’ve screwed this three-way point to the baseboard this is a Pico 6ft way gauge and for streamline track these two inner
Uh lugs give you the distance between parallel running lines so if I just pop it on there you can see that the yellows are the right distance so if I put a piece of track in the middle I can then pull in or push out the double slips to
Make sure I’ve got the right gaps lovely I have drilled two holes one in each of the double slips and you can hopefully see that there’s a screw poised so if I hold these in place pull out this piece of paper and then screw them down wishing me luck
Okay so if I screw these down now and then hopefully when I put the 6t way gauge back in the distances will be right and they are okay so we’re happy with the where everything is to a certain extent so the next thing I need to
Do is get the I don’t need the paper now for any of this bar that point there and I’ll worry about that later I think because that seems to be a straightforward curve and I can always pull this back in now it is possible for
Me now just to pull out the ho of this bit of paper and then Mark up all these points bar the center section so if I pull this out and then with my big fat marker pen I can then draw around these knowing that they’re in the right place similarly at this
End and then this little piece of track that bunged in the middle will naturally go there okay and then finally to remove this piece of paper if I screw this point down and take the screws out out of the three-way point then this will pull away and leave everything in place okay
Well there we are I found that quite worrying really so we’ve now can we we can now Mark up where the three-way Point’s going and this part of the double slips and hopefully all should be well okay well I must confess I was unsure exactly how to do that um there
May have been an easier way and if you do then leave a note in the comments section down below but it’s kind of worked out I know where to put the track which is the main thing without sort of ruining uh the track plan in the first
Place but there we go in the next video I’m going to fit this track and do the wiring but I’m not going to go into a great deal of depth um you know because I’ve done so many of these before there’s any particular bit you’re interested in such as wiring double
Slips um you know the three-way points or the point Motors all that sort of stuff then do leave a message down in the comment section down below and I’ll try to cater for your requirements so there we have it some good progress on the track Lane Front we’re all ready
To go on that Freight yard now and also we’ve built that support structure around the back of that Hillside and ruined a decent polo shirt in the meantime beautiful now where do we go from here well I’m still striving to become the first old age pensioner with 100,000
Subscribers so come on hit that subscriber button and and join the clan come on we got to do this together anyway in the meantime there’s a video here and here I’d like to thank the patrons in particular the patrons because um without you I couldn’t do all
This sort of stuff and remember patrons get this these videos advert free for the first 24 hours get on and be one right see you in two week’s time thanks that take care bye-bye
42 Comments
Brilliant Charlie. Absolutely brilliant.
Got a reason now to slog on with mine for the next two weeks.
Never give up. The pleasure you give is not measurable.
God bless you.
Steve
watching you wire the double slips would be helpful
Hi Charlie. very enjoyable video as usual. I see there have been some requests for wiring double slips and three way points which I would also appreciate. I am about to copy your freight yard design for a layout I am about to build and it would come in very useful. I understand electrofrog 3 ways can be problematic while insulfrog ones less so. Do you have experience of that and do you have any advice about which is best to use for a relative beginner. All my turnouts are electrofrog otherwise. Regards
THE SLOTTED / SLATTED MDF
Charlie,
I have used this previously for any number of tasks, including model railways, and I noticed very early on, (as you have), that it 'spalls' very easily.
From experience I have used very fine types of saws or even Exacto or Stanly type blades which involves some care in scoring it, especially if the aim is to retain all of ones fingers at the end of the process. If this is done carefully it works fine.
I do recognise that for a long length run, as you have used for the backing to the hillside, this might take a while to do……but there you go.
I have found Jigsaws far too harsh, even with the finest of blades.
One of the things that I have found useful is to clamp a length of timber along the cutting line. It serves as both a guide and as protection against 'spalling'. In this way an ordinary Tenon Saw is best, although obviously the finer the better. When this method is used it is always possible that some bits 'spall' off anyway. However, the use of a clamped length of timber means the bits are not lost on the floor and can be easily glued back as required.
Whilst you have used it here for the backing to the hilside, (the ability to curve being its virtue), it is actually very useful for modelling buildings, wagons etc…etc………..where it gives an easily identifiable 'planking' or board effect.
Another excellent video….
Thank you..
James Hennighan
Yorkshire, England
P.S.
Given its flexibility it can also serve to form track gradients…..!
Nice work. I watched a video a while ago – regrettably I can't find it now, where an American modeller laid up his track with point formations on his desk. He would solder everything at the rail joiners, and he could do this right on the paper plan. He would then lift the entire section (minus paper) onto his layout, glue (and optionally pin), and he would cut isolating sections after it was all set. His argument was that it's easy to lay track on a workbench, and the joins on curves won't kink. To keep the rails isolated, he would insert some plasticard and trim it to the rail profile.
I like this idea and will be trying it on my layout for the more complex areas like station throats and fiddle yard entrances.
Nice progress on the layout as usual
Ooh brexit
Regarding where you explained a change to the track plan due to the PECO ST-244 curved turnout being Insulfrog:
You may be interested to know that last year PECO released the SL-U76 which is the same geometry, but features a Unifrog allowing the crossing area to be powered.
Hi Charlie! Great video as usual. I’d be interested in how you wire the three way slip. I have one to fit and I’m really scratching my head!
“I left this part open for cleaning up derailed Class 37s” 😂
In all seriousness, this was very useful, thanks for the info! I’ll be taking lots of these tips into consideration for my own layout, as I have tons of flex track lying around that I figured I wouldn’t use, as I find flex track very fiddly, so I tend to just use set track, but that method with the paper looks like it might help me!
Super show this week Charlie, thankyou, lots for me to take on board.
If it hasn't been raised already, a pin wheel works well to mark your track out. Don't go too fine a wheel as it may not indent into your cork enough.
I've used your wiring methodology on my layout and would appreciate seeing how you wire up double slips and 3 ways.
Code 100 Double slip , SL90. , My layout is code 100 but my double slips are code 75 electro frogs with the conversion fishplates .
Don’t know why Peco never made a code 100 E SL90 !
Hi Charlie, been away for the weekend so I'm late for the show!! That was a great mix of activities. Really enjoyed the visit to Buffers, would love to see some more of your drone filming if it worked out for you.
The question I have for this goods yard is how are you proposing to operate it? What comes to mind is that the intention would be to have someone operating it in situe, would they be controling all the activities through an electronic interface or perhaps an electrical panel or maybe even both. Perhaps you dont need all of the points automated or maybe some could be solenoid, just thoughts. Be interesting to know how you are planning to do this.
I also look at the three way point thinking about the wiring diagram, i know others have commented, I'm sure some time on this would be appreciated.
As always a really well presented and interesting video together … maple sauce too!!
All the best!!
Brilliant video Charlie
Awesome video charlie
For me, you are the ultimate professional when it comes to construction……
Charlie, I don't have any model railways or trains at all due to the cost. I would love a set up like yours. I am interested in dioramas, hence why I love your chanel. Thank you
Hi Charlie can you please show how to wire a double slip thanks great video
As always great video. At about 23 minutes in you talk about how to get the Anyrail drawing "onto" the layout. I think the right tool for the job is a Pounce Wheel and some chalk. Maybe you should give that a try?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pouncing
Nice video Charlie! My dad met you at the Warley Model Railway Show and took a picture with you! I am a new fan and love your videos☺️
❤💥🧡
Hi Charlie – I never use MDF as the dust from it is much worse than asbestos. Deadly.
Time to make a maple stir! Have you heard of them?
Well done on mentioning the dangers of cutting MDF, be extra careful its the new asbestos!
Have you ever considered code 75? I find it a lot more realistic so have used it on the upper level. I had to alter the planned upper level on Anyrail to ensure the Tortoise motors didn't interfere with the lower level. The new motor you have shown, I don't think was available back then. Laying the track I did similar to what you did.
Great update Charlie!
Had you considered the Peco Code 100 Setrack curved Unifrog point (SL-U76) to maintain a live frog and stick with the original track plan? (Forgive me if anyone has already mentioned this).
Dave
dont use the Maple syrup on ice cream,,,makesome pancakes and use it instead of treacle !!! GOOD VIDEO AGAIN THANKS
Hi Charlie great video as always thank you. Can I ask where you purchased the screws you use at 24:00 to screw down the track? I am trying to attach surface point motors through 2cm foam and 2mm cork to the baseboard. The supplied screws are too short. Many thanks Chris
Another great video here once again,all helps over here on Banks road layout build
Hi Charlie, an interesting video , I'm another to add to the list of confused with double slips.
Many suggestions have been offered to control the mdf from self distucting under the jigsaw.
The ruling maxim is the saw must have 3 teeth or more touching the thickness of the material – wood or metal.
Therefore the thinner the sheet of mdf the finer the saw blade…..I use a – Metal jigsaw blade to cut 3mm ply and 2mm MDF. Choosing one described as for thin metal sheet. This may cut a bit slower than a proper wood blade, but the number of teeth per inch (tpi) is much better on thin wood products.
Charlie, Love your videos! I have learned many tips. However, are you aware that May 12 is Mother’s Day? Hard to clear time on that day for You Tube training. Just a comment. Best wishes moving forward.
Too bad I don't have a local hobby shop like Buffers here State side and pay a small fortune for shipping. I also remember from earlier video you stating you despised a three point turn out, was wondering if it's working out? Best of luck and appreciate your videos Charlie.
Groundhog Day Charile, have you checked your clearance to your saw haorses? Remeber one of you bloppers. Great stuff.
Hi Charlie, why not print the more more complex track plans on transparent film? You could then use this as an overlay above the track to check your track matches the plan… would save the risk of movement when dragging the paper out… thoughts?
Hi ya Charlie, another fantastic video as always 👏
So pleased to see the progress that you're making. These kind of videos always inspire me to crack on with my own layout…. so thank you very much for making them👍👍
It really made me happy to see Buffers in this episode. Due to work etc, I haven't been as much as I would have liked. I had hoped to pop in before my holiday so it was almost surreal seeing the shop from a very hot and sunny Boa Vista 😎
Keep up your brilliant work as always my friend and I shall very much look forward to the next episode 😀
All the very best
Russ
🎉M7
The sawcuts which allow the mdf to be flexible, also expose the internal structure of the mdf …… The down stroke from the magic saw blade, can or will blow out lumps from the thicker islands of the mdf. Its the nature of the material, (the resin bonding of weaker inner layers ) the hard skin flaking away.
Yet another great video. Any advice on how to wire a three way point would be brilliant
Very interesting and useful. I find it quite amusing you're using 3 way points when you've voiced your antipathy towards them in the past. Great video, as always
Good video mate really enjoyed it
Hi Charlie, Another very interesting video, it's good to see the progress, could you use a short peco point for the entrance to the freight yard, it has a radius of 24 inches. Regards, David.
Pity about the shirt. Maybe we’ll need to get you an apron 😂. Another great video, Charlie. For the next one, detail on the differences when wiring the MT10 vs the Tortoises would be useful. See you then.