We love when it snows because we get to get on the tractor and move it! Our favorite attachment is the HLA Snow Pusher, but we don’t have this channel just to show off our favorite things. But to test others, in case there can be a new favorite. Or in case we can learn something new. So with an impending snowstorm, we’ve set up three of our tractors in three unique ways to test how they each perform in the snow. One using our John Deere 1025R, the other our John Deere 2038R, and the third using our Summit TX25.
Products in video:
HLA Snow Pusher: https://bit.ly/3Wn6l9A
MK Martin Pull-Type Snowblower: https://bit.ly/3hMHlcT
Dirt Dog Rear Blade: https://bit.ly/3YOxfJa
Dirt Dog Landscape Rake: https://bit.ly/3BXDZLd
Speeco Quick Hitch: https://bit.ly/3jsBDxc
Hitch Hangers: https://bit.ly/3VqUKoF
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Snow Pusher: https://bit.ly/3NB4BVw
Landscape Rake: https://bit.ly/3GpSlF6
Land Plane: https://bit.ly/38SDHcY
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Grapples: https://bit.ly/3PNNYaZ
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41 Comments
I use my FL and rear blade for snow and they work well for me.
I’m trying something new with both FL and rear blade this year. I cut a slot lengthwise in 1.25” black pipe. Fitted it over the edges of the blades and fabricated mounts as needed to hold the pipe secure. Will see how/if this works on gravel drives. I have about 550’ of driveway to clear.
Would love to have all those options for snow removal though! 😊
I found out quick that it was near impossible to steer my 4WD tractor on a slope because the front tires just slip on the snow even though large gravel underneath. I am trying the European style chains soon that you see on skidders, no tensioner needed. Hopefully don't need to buy suitcase weights for front bumper. The weight of the loader and bucket does not help as much as I had hoped. My rear R4's are weighted. Concrete is a rich person problem😂
Nice be rich
Couple horse mats from tractor supply will keep the concrete good.
That is a different Concrete in your shed because you got that sealed and sealed concrete is not good with tire chains but if you're out on the road that is a different because you don't seal your road or your driveway
I have a 4710 . The chains I purchased are heavy from Norway. They work great for me. We are in the mountains. Up to 19% grade on the driveway. I rigged up pulleys with an winch. I lower the chains down on to the tires. Really helps with the weight factor. The tires are set to the widest I can get them. So no problem with fenders in the way.
When I first learned to put chains on it was a fire truck the chains were designed for that specific size you made them tight no stretchers needed and they were tight, now days stretchers are a must
You're gonna want to relocate the air filter too. The bracket that supports it has a tendency to break and metal gets into the engine if the valve cover breaks.
I run a blade behind my massey in reverse, works just fine.
You sir are lovely ,however your surgically clean shop is not intended for compact tractors . Is more suited to classic Ferrari storage. 🤦🏼. I consider myself fussy clean but dude you take it to another level .
Let's focus on the traction aspect ok
Thank you for seeing the chain put on with the outside link hitting the Tire.(Believe me, they indented the plow trucks tires we did that by accident too) May I suggest it in my Humble opinion. Go to a local carpet store to see if they have Carpet SQUARE, or just throw away from a piece that's been sitting. Just see if they have FREE carpet remnants. Just lay them down ONLY where rear tires contact cement. We had an ice Rain come in., Just yesterday. The mail truck was only one out. They even shut down the major Airport. Anyway, noticed that on pavement the mail truck did the same thing to the street, that happened to your NICE clean great looking, don't want dinged up cement floor. Just an idea. Also sense you sell tractor and tool attachments. Can you afford to have a TIRE already with good security CHAINS on
old tires that tread is gone, maybe. Then just change out the rear tires. Just another thought or idea. Don't feel bad about the chain on backwards, you know how many times I have Laying them out WRONG. Went all through install And getting to the last link hook up. Then I noticed them backwards. I did it too many times to count, putting on chain after chain on the rear wheel duel 12 yard plow dumps. All the time with the supervisor yelling. These trucks MUST get out!! On another note. What do you think of those (magnetic Engine OIL pan heaters) I just bought one for my 8V-71 Detroit Diesel Engine. I saw that outside tractor starting very cold blooded.??????
I want to see if my baby STARTS more easily in this cold weather we have been hit hard with. A BIG Merry Christmas to you my tractor friend
Hope you're getting a bunch of snow to compare these configurations. I do miss the lake effect snow from my childhood. All we get in Cheyenne is the wind after the mountains strip off all the moisture. Not helpful when I'm trying to persuade the wife that I need a snowblower for the 1025r when the old Sears Garden tractor can handle what we usually get. Merry Christmas.
I have used chains on my 1025r for years since I have a 15% grade up my asphalt driveway. I usually wait to use them until the ground is frozen since my shed is in a field, unless a big storm comes. I have not detected gouging in the driveway. I also get a seal coat every few years too which may cover if damaged by chains. I would be concerned if I had concrete and consider rubber chains instead.
Let the fun begin before next weekends spring melt down…
I use the front snow plow on mine works great. I do have rear tire weights , tires filled with beet juice and tire chains. I don’t have a front loader for mine. Have you ever tried the front snow plow??
At the 9:40 mark you are in the correct orientation with that rear blade.
By running it "backwards" you eliminate gouging your gravel. It also helps if you hit a rock or small curb in that it might slide over instead of catching and breaking something.
I have run my rear blades like this for over forty years.
In fact, I tend to run my blades like this even in the summer, most of the time.
Similar to turning the blade backwards, I used the box blade on my 1025r tilted back to help remove heavy slush off my gravel driveway. Front mounted snow blower removed the pile dumped at the end of the run.
Looking forward to the results of your test – enjoying your insight. Merry Christmas 🎄
If you jack the wheel of the ground and let the air out and put them back on as tight as possible then air them back up. Put your tightness in it will save a lot of wear on the chains and should never come loose.
You are the last guy I’d have expected to see running the engine mounted old style 1025R air filter.
I hate chains. They also mark up my concrete. We bought a Can-Am Defender UTV a few years ago and I priced a plow for it versus chains and implements for my Kubota L6060HSTC. Economically it was less expensive to purchase the plow for the UTV. It was much less of an initial investment, no chains required, less chance of damaging the equipment if it slides on my hillside, less fuel costs, and so forth. My UTV has the front and back windshield but no cab like my tractor, but the tractor is simply just too expensive to clear snow with. I used to use the bucket years ago but it was so dangerous on the slightest incline without chains. Then you have the risk of the chains themselves, if they break or come off they can do a substantial amount of damage. If we got 2’ of snow in each storm like some areas then yes the tractor may make sense. But for us in the mid-Atlantic, the UTV was more economical for us. So my tractor investments are for when snow does not exist 🙂
You are definitely all set for snow 🎅🏻🎄🙋🏼♂️🙂👍🏻
I use horse stall rubber pads cut lengthwise and put them down in the winter. Like a runway for eash tire. SAves my shop floor.
I did a video a couple years ago tractor chains installed easy I do it the same no matter what size equipment. I also do it on my truck tires the same way.
Now it’s right
That sharp edge will damage the tire.
And yes, chains do damage concrete.
It’s metal rubbing on concrete
I had issues for the longest time trying to chain my tractor. I ended up buying a good jack and installed the chains while the tire was off the ground. I would also remove some air from the tire while installing the chains.
I won't use chains on my concrete or black top. Before I had tractors my neighbor would occasionally spin chains on my black top(2×4). I'm interested to see what the rake does.
Why do you leave your quick hitch locks open when hooking up? I haven't yet with no issues.
Thank you for being willing to show us your mistakes! Makes me feel better 🤣 Merry Christmas to you and your family!
If you can find 2 old snowmobile tracks that stretched on the concrete will protect fro the chains. Also old conveyers belts works as well it is east to get them from mines
I’ve had good luck with the rear blade backwards if you only have one one storm to deal with.
Yes. that's why I don't pull my tractor in the garage after I put chains on it. I dont want my floor chewed up. Some on in the comments said use stall mats cut if you need to get inside. Sounds good to me. I have used boards to pull mine in if I absolutely have too.
Snowmobile cleats do gouges too… Epoxy can and does work well to repair, but its the nature of the beasts…
Idk who told you they don’t cause damage to concrete, they are either dumb or crazy I don’t know. But they certainly can just like steel blades, runners, and cutting edges can damage your concrete. They can also damage the road too just like tire studs do. That’s why they say to only use them (being studs, snow tires, and snow chains) from November-April, cuz it will damage the road. This example is a law in Ohio, I don’t know about federal laws, some of them talk about it but I can’t quote them.
Chains will tear up the surface of your concrete but it doesn’t take much to protect it. The carpet under your truck is plenty to do what needs done
… when was this filmed? Winter started at end of hunting season… September 20th. First snow was on the ground by October 1…
I just put a piece of UHMW on my rear blade took off the steel cutting edge. Excited to use it but we did get but a dusting from the snow storm….. Some storm 😒
I haven't had to use it yet but I'm still a big fan of tire siping…
@6:25 Really you should spend $10,000 on a backhoe so you can just lift the rear end up with the outriggers. 😉 Merry Christmas tractor nuts!
I have about 700 ft of gravel driveway, plus around my pole barn. I plow with a blade on my atv. This year I mounted a 2 inch steel pipe on the bottom. This is working great. It doesn't dig in or push gravel over to the side. It doesn't leave a film of snow like when you use skidders either. There's a very ingenious guy on YouTube that mounted a pipe on his truck plow. He made it so he can remove it with 1 pin and store it on top of his plow when plowing paved driveways. Check him out.
I’ve cleared snow for in town businesses for about 30 years. My normal configuration is a material bucket and a rear blade with no shoes on either. Most of the time I’m back dragging and shoes would prevent an even down pressure across my cutting edges. Back dragging allows my fixed bucket and blade (no trip springs) to ride over manhole covers, loose asphalt, concrete joints, and stones without picking them up.
When dealing with stone surfaces specifically:
Unless I’m clearing a long road, I generally back drag my blade traveling in reverse to avoid packing snow under my wheels. A mound of packed snow is difficult to lift without lifting stuck stone too. I set my top link to make the back of the blade vertical on the snow side with the cutting edge rolling under.
The amount of down pressure I use varies with the looseness of the surface material. If it is very light round material like pea stone I run the blade a few inches above the stone. On heavy packed locking stone like three quarter Septic I can usually float the full weight of a heavy duty 6 foot blade.
If you get the roll and pressure right most stone will roll and pack under the blade. If the stone is still being pushed / plowed forward by the weight of the snow being pushed over it, I will cut the majority of the snow off with the bucket first. On very loose stone I will back drag the bucket at a low angle applying down pressure to pack the remaining snow over the surface.
When dealing with stone I use my bucket mainly to back drag snow out into the open and for packing the surface. I run Ag tires so I usually take the extra step of back dragging my bucket out of the work area to remove my tracks. When cutting forward on stone (top cutting deep snows or piling) I keep my bucket about 2 ½ inches off the surface and make slight height adjustments by rolling it. I never float my bucket when cutting on stone preferring a precise cut height that can be packed and minimizing the chance of digging in.
In general, there is always some stone that is picked up. The lighter, looser, and rounder the stone the more the potential for and care needed to prevent it. To minimize any post cleanup I always try to make my piles over the work surface. That said, I have found back dragging to be the best approach to clearing snow off stone surfaces.
Where you have a rear blower you could easily remove a deep top layer of snow and then finish with a bucket or blade back drag on your drive. Rather than relying on the blower’s skids I would set your 3 point stop so the blower’s cutting edge was a comfortable height above your stone road. The skids would probably just dig down into the stones and send them flying.
In the end, just my take on dealing with stone lots / drives. Hope it helps.
I see you like to push your equipment to see how much it can handle(saw this with a mower you had used).
How big of a snow pusher can you put on this? 8'?
Years ago i had a 70's massy 12hp, MF12, had 42" plow, I put V wings on pushing a path almost 60" wide. No add weight but the tractor was around 800 pounds, and had tire chains. I've upgraded sense then, sorts of miss that old tractor.