We’re finally starting to feel a little caught up in our backyard garden plots and in the greenhouse. So we figure today was a great time for a backyard garden tour of all 10 plots on our homestead.

After the tour, we’ll show you an easy way to keep weeds from taking over your beans in the backyard garden!

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22 Comments

  1. Travis… I really don't have an answer for my success with the Ali Baba and yours seemingly wonky. Mine this year all look like they always have for me. This year is my first year to use drip tape to water my garden….in the past I've used soaker hose. And this year is the first year to fertilize via the drip tape… Although in the past I've never fertilized watermelon….this year I have fertilized some with the drip tape with the same results.

    Really the only thing that I do different in my growing watermelon is I've ALWAYS put down black plastic and the last two years a black landscape fabric that is an exclusive at Sam's …. I've always had either soaker hose and this year drip tape under the plastic or fabric. I cut a slit or hole in the fabric and plant the watermelon plants or direct seed there. The watermelons will grow great on top of the fabric and it makes it weed free.

    CAUTION: DO NOT use the landscape fabric that Costco sells…the weeds and grass just grown under it and makes a mess of the garden. I used some of it this year (not with the watermelon thank goodness) and it's really not black, but a grey color and grass and weeds grow under it just fine.

  2. I have to shade my fall vegetable transplants. Zone 9 coastal Texas.
    I use a 1×3 wooden stake with a piece of cardboard box stapled to it with a couple of construction staples.
    Set it to shade from West side from noon to evening.
    Also the little push in the ground corrugated plastic campaign signs work good, especially if they have a wire frame. Bend it a bit to provide noon shade..

  3. Hi, First time viewer. I did an experiment this summer. I planted just the potatoe skin where a sprout was and they grew amazingly well. It allowed me to eat the potatoe and get a plant which produced more too. lol….I am learning alot by watching your methods. Ty All the best

  4. It seems like it would be wise to invest in some shade cloth…. especially for your late summer plantings. You have frost protection for winter and spring… why not help in the hot hot summer days?

  5. Man. its something with the heat…dry fall heat maybe. I have a bunch of plants that look like that. ive been doing over head for weeks trying to keep em going.

  6. Go ahead and plant them taters. Sounds like a great idea. We grow them in pots up here in 7b, (N.Y). We planted a second crop right after harvesting the first crop at the end of July. If we timed it right, the second crop should be ready just before the first frost.

  7. It's still to hot for regular squash, but not for the winter squash. I have several winter squash plants that aren't looking so good right now and probably won't make anything before winter. It's a test, so if they fail I'll know not to plant winter squash in the late summer. That week that felt like a early fall sure went away in a hurry.

  8. Thanks! On going experiment, had a rough skin russet potato from the organic store area that had sprouted, planted it in a big tub trying to duplicate the conditions that potatoes evolved in the semi-arid foothills of the Andes mountains, S. America. Doing my best to duplicate the Volcanic soils they evolved in, 6 years later, un-dug and un-disturbed except for the addition of amended soil it continues to come back every year. Here's a few bucks to to experiment with.

  9. My bean plants have brown spots and brown regions all over the leaves. Should I spray fungicide with chlorothalonyl, such as Davconil or Bravo?

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