They started in peat pods, 2 to a cell. Moved them to these cups. Some are growing tall and have brighter green leaves. They were under led panels when they were in pods, and under this ferry-Morse T5 light since moving them to cups.
Others are darker green and don’t seem to be growing much.
All were started at the same time and under the same conditions. I do rotate these cups every few days to keep the plants from leaning too much like some of these are doing.
I’m sure it’s hard to tell from this picture, but is there anything I should be doing differently?
by GrumpyGardener1312
8 Comments
Adding that these are Cherokee purples if that makes any difference.
If i remember correctly you can only transplant something two times before root shock stunts its growth so after this one should be its permanent home
I was growing under one of these long skinny lights and the plants were getting super leggy. I added another next to it for more coverage and now everything is doing great. No leaning, no stretching. Also, if you don’t have a fan you should get one
Don’t forget to add fertilizer to get them going.
I find grow lights to be a waste. Sunlight does just as well
Put a small fan on them.
You’re probably fine up to this stage if your growing mix had some nutrition in it. Official advice is to use a liquid fert similar to 15-30-15 (same as 1-2-1, just more concentrated; the instructions will have you dilute accordingly) applied at half the rate recommended for indoor/container plants. I’ve used 10-10-10 too, and it’s worked well. At transplant, water in with the same 15-30-15 at full strength. Then side dress with a pure nitrogen fertilizer after fruit set, again 2 weeks after you pick the first ripe one, and again a month after that.
They look good to me 🙂 might want to add some diluted fertilizer at this point, once they get their second set of true leaves the run out of their built-in seed nutrients.
I’ve noticed that some of mine just seem to do better than others , and if you’re rotating them that’s extra credit!