How to build simple and durable outdoor steps for a hill. Whether you’re improving your landscape or adding accessibility, this easy-to-follow guide will help you tackle the project with confidence.

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50 Comments

  1. Would concrete have been cheaper?
    Maybe dry pour.
    The wood on the steps will get worn from foot traffic and may even become slippery.

    Nice project though!

  2. If you poured concrete your could have layed rebar to connect the steps.
    I'm thinking the wood will break apart over time as it rots out.

  3. For that much hand-digging of packed earth, one might consider buying a pick-axe, to break it up. Especially if there are are rocks and roots.

  4. those steps are only 5.5" high, should of put another 2×4 on top to make them 7" tall, much more comfortable to walk and less total stairs needed = less work

  5. This looks great. A guy quoted me over $13,000 for concrete stairs. I’m gonna do this on the weekend. One question about the lag screw connections. You used one lag screw per connection. Did you feel that was enough or would you recommend two?

  6. would this work if you need the steps to curve a bit – as long as the front of the next step (working from bottom to top) sits on the back of the lower step and rebar goes through both?

  7. Nice job. Hand tamping lightly like that probably didnt accomplish much but is better than nothing!

  8. not to be critical here but this project would be OK for a homeowner to put on his own property for "easier" access to a lower area of a sloped yard. However, there is nothing about this that would ever pass a building code. and – if you tried to sell a house with this type of construction on the property, a home inspector might say "you've got to do a lot more to this or take it out completely." the main thing i see is the lack of railing. no Code Inspector would allow such a thing without a railing at a height of at least 36" inches.

  9. We did this at our home 35 years ago using treated lumber people used to make garden beds. Our soil was mostly clay and we laid the steps with more treated lumber with gravel underneath. We poured motor oil on them and timber oil once. They lasted almost 35 years and were very hard to remove when we replaced them. The rebar trick held them very steady. It was both a wet spot and a sunny spot so 35 years was a good life for them. However, ours was only four large width steps. Big difference in work!

  10. A quick weekend project? Hmmm. Very nice, but for the weekend warrior it's going to take a few weeks

  11. Maybe it's me or the camera distortion but those steps looked neither straight nor level. In my opinion.

  12. Never put rebar directly into treated wood or soil , it’s just gonna rot .. Should’ve found hot dipped galvanized pins( 1/2” grounding rod cut to length) rookie mistake right off the bat.😂

  13. Won't last and sides are gonna continually slough onto stairs. Should have just poured concrete with an experienced contractor, money well spent.

  14. Things I didn't like about the video:
    "Get the height and length of the hillside" but doesn't show anyone how to do that.
    "Make sure the base is level" but doesn't show the process of leveling it. It's just magically level when he turns the camera on.
    "No fancy tools" Has a $800 circular say and table setup, just like everyone in the neighborhood.
    "Quick" Took two days
    "Easy" rented a skid steer

  15. Built lots of Timbers risers in my landscape construction days.
    Looks nice but structurally lots wrong with this project.
    No cribbing was installed. Big wash out risk on slope without cribbing. Need to build a series rectangular timber frames cribs infilled with drainage stone as you build to stabilize risers.
    Build next rectangular timber crib and stack on top. Continue process.
    Also recommend use of a 14”-16” chainsaw and proper 8-10 lb sledge to drive the spikes. Landscape construction is not fine carpentry.

  16. Great job. Mud is conquered!
    The next thing (unless I missed the detail, when FF-ing a few times). Grab a piece of wood (two is even better). Burn it to protect it from fast rotting. Plug it at least 5 feet (10' is even better) into the clay and anchor the top of the stairs into it. That way, nothing will slide and warp down the road.

  17. I would cut a 2×4 to the step length (maybe even screw on a stopper) instead of pulling out a tape measurer every. single. freaking. time, but to each their own.

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