There’s no mistaking a gray triggerfish when you reel one in. It’s easily identified by its flat, oval-shaped body; tough scales; and retractable dorsal fin it can “trigger” in tight spaces to stay anchored or ward off predators. Once considered a trash fish—up until about twenty years ago, commercial fishermen tossed these crafty creatures back when targeting more mainstream species—triggerfish is now a prized offering at high-end seafood restaurants across the South, including Bayonet, which opened last spring in Birmingham, Alabama. “Triggerfish is a beautiful fish, with its white, flaky yet slightly firm flesh,” says executive chef and co-owner Rob McDaniel. “Its diet is largely dependent on crustaceans such as shrimp and crab, which give the fish a mildly sweet flavor profile.”
That firmer flesh with smaller flakes makes the meat stand out from popular reef-dwelling brethren like snapper or grouper. It also allows the fish to hold up well on the grill, leading to McDaniel’s favorite preparation: triggerfish on the half shell slathered in a flavorful compound butter (see recipe). “I really like getting whole triggerfish, filleting them with the skin and scales on, and grilling them,” he says. “Fish is normally something that can be scary for some to cook, but the ‘shell’ will protect the fish from burning and keep it from drying out.”
The season opens March 1 in Gulf waters, and the fish can be caught year-round in the Atlantic. If you find whole triggerfish at the fish market, make sure the eyes are clear and the flesh is firm and bounces back when lightly pressed. Pair it with anything that would go well with crab or shrimp—McDaniel loves a side of creamed corn and a drizzle of chimichurri to finish the fish. And if you catch one yourself, know that it’s a keeper. Once you’ve filleted the fish and fired up the grill, the hard work is done. “Triggerfish on the half shell is very difficult to mess up,” he says. “And packed with flavor.”
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