Continuing on the 1 man job to avoid huge landscaping quote. First 2 photos were before, 3&4 are cleaned up, 5-7 are where I’m working next.
Overall goal: simple, low maintenance, increased curb appeal, and a utility pathway down the side.
The utility pathway will have big pavers and similar rock filled in around it. My goal for front (pic 1) is to shovel as much rock out, clean it, and put rock back on fresh weed barrier, maybe some small shrubs.
Where I’m stuck is these CMU blocks that the previous owners used as a retaining wall. Significant slope compared to utility path. When I pull the blocks away, the sand behind it is pretty solid and doesn’t run free, plus it has grass/weeds that have filled in.
TLDR: Looking for inspiration on how to transform it. Additionally if you were to remove the blocks, are you better off clearing that area and starting the retaining wall right where dirt is or ~6-9” away so you can level out the dirt more
by Mean-Telephone4613
1 Comment
That “solid” sand behind the blocks is a trap. It’s likely only holding its shape right now because of the root matrix from the weeds and grass you mentioned. As soon as you kill that vegetation or get a heavy Hawaiian downpour, that sand is going to liquefy and slump right into your clean trench. Don’t trust it. You need to treat this like a legitimate retaining structure, even if it’s small.
Regarding your question on placement: absolutely step the wall back 6 to 9 inches from the dirt face. You never want to build a retaining wall directly against the soil. That gap is crucial real estate for “backfill”—specifically, clean crushed gravel (3/4 inch minus or similar). This gravel layer acts as a buffer that allows water to drain down quickly rather than building up hydrostatic pressure behind the blocks, which is exactly what pushes walls over over time. Since you are in Hawaii where rain can be intense, this drainage zone is non-negotiable.
For the aesthetic, standard gray CMU blocks scream “unfinished basement” unless you plan to stucco or veneer them. If you want curb appeal without a massive bill, look for a split-face retaining wall block that has a lip on the back to lock into the row below it. They are easier to stack than CMU and look finished immediately. If you stick with the CMU to save money, buy some flat concrete caps to glue on top. It hides the holes and gives you a clean horizontal line, which instantly makes a DIY job look intentional and professional.
One quick note on the “fresh weed barrier” strategy: standard big-box store fabric is garbage. In a tropical climate with aggressive growth, weeds will root right through it or grow on top of the dust that settles in the rocks. If you want that rock path to last, focus on compacting a solid sub-base of dirt, putting down a heavy-duty non-woven geotextile (the thick felt-like kind, not the shiny plastic kind), and then your rock. It’ll save you a headache in two years.