The Art of Brick Paving: One Man’s Journey with 1700 Bricks

Join me on a journey as this large brick patio takes shape, step by step.

👉 Watch a full tutorial here: https://youtu.be/Z66v3R-WU2E?si=910690GRH1yCyURC

It’s not just about the how-to, but about the process—the careful cutting, thoughtful laying, and subtle finishing touches that bring the space to life. With calming visuals and a focus on craftsmanship, this video invites you to slow down and appreciate the art of creating something beautiful and lasting outdoors. Perfect for anyone who enjoys watching transformation and quality work unfold, without the rush of a traditional tutorial.

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What to watch next: 👉 The Hill That Became A Garden https://youtu.be/8vrlaN61CGU?si=OWSRB3LV8nJNam8y

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#brickpatio #patio #gardendesign

Welcome everyone. This project’s all about turning this outdoor space into something special. It’s a blank canvas waiting to be shaped with a big new patio made from these beautiful old reds, also known as pressed reds. These bricks are full of character, history, and authentic charm. Unlike my last video, which was a full tutorial, this one is more about sharing the journey as I build something amazing for this home. I’m going to start by digging out the entire area for the patio. It’s going to be a big one. I want to drop it down to about 200 mm lower than the final height of the bricks. This extra depth will accommodate the base and the mortar bed. Setting up string lines early makes sure I lock in the exact levels and establish a slope away from the house for proper drainage. Getting this right up front means the rain water won’t pull near the foundation. [Music] Next up is the crushed rock base. I’m using a solid 100 mm of crushed rock. And I’m not kidding when I say I need a lot of it. Around 4 m for this size patio. [Music] I’ve mentioned it in past videos, so I won’t go on about it for too long, but the base is crucial. It provides a stable, level foundation that prevents movement and sinking over time. To make it extra solid, I’m adding about 2% cement to the rock mixture. This sets the base even firmer so the patio will stand the test of time. [Music] Normally, if I needed this amount of rock, I would just get it delivered. However, the streets here are tight and there’s absolutely nowhere for me to get it dropped without blocking the road or a lane. So, I’m going to have to do it all on the back of a ute. The upside is that it’s much easier to fill a barrel off the back than it is to shovel it all off the ground. I can also get it closer than a delivery truck, so it’s less time pushing the barrerow. [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] I use my level and straight edge to get the crushed rock perfectly flat and even. Carefully checking across the whole area to eliminate any high or low spots. I’m also using my string lines as a guide to make sure I maintain the correct slope away from the house for proper drainage. This step is vital to ensure a uniform base before I compact the surface with the compactor. Several passes packs down that rock really hard. To get the best results, I spray the rock with water while compacting. This helps it settle tighter and firm up. Then after giving it all a good whack down, I’m going to add another layer of rock and compact that. That base is looking good now. Really solid, nice and uniform, and with the perfect slope. So, let’s get some bricks happening. I’m working with about 700 salvaged bricks from the old garden here. But to cover the size of the patio, I need around 1,000 more reclaimed old reds delivered. They were all made around 100 years ago, just 300 meggers down the road. So, it’s a great bit of local history. Another quick stop to grab brick, sand, and cement. And then we’re almost ready to start dropping some bricks. Setting up string lines is one of the most important steps before laying any paving. I stretch the strings tightly between fixed points like stakes or existing edges, setting them at the exact height I want the finished patio surface to be, making sure they are as tight as I can possibly get them to eliminate any sagging. These lines serve as a clear visual guide for the whole job, helping me keep consistent levels and maintain the right slope away from the house. I never rush this step. Once I have the full set on the sides, I like to run a string in a crisscross pattern from corner to corner. That way, I can check that the heights are right in the middle of the area. Placing a brick under the string shows me how thick the mortar bed will be. It’s much easier to fix any height issues at this stage before laying the bricks down. I’m using a streamline level to check the angle. They give you an idea, but aren’t 100% accurate. I’m using two of them, and they show different readings when placed right next to each other. The mortar I’m using is a mix of four parts sand to one part cement. My trusty mixer is a little battered and dented from years of hard use, and it has its quirks. Sometimes it makes some strange noises like it’s trying to clear its throat and especially in the morning it doesn’t like to start spinning right away. Kind of like most of us really. I usually have to give it a little help with the first spin. And after that it settles in and keeps going strong for the rest of the day. Mixing every batch just like it’s supposed to. That pink string that you can see running from left to right is my main guide. I’m going to set all my other strings off it. This will help me keep a nice even slope away from the house. For the bricks, I’m going to be setting them in a running bond pattern. It’s simple, strong, and really highlights the texture and color variation of these reclaimed old reds. This first row is going to sit about 8 mm off the house. This section is completely covered by the roof and doesn’t get any moisture, so there’s no chance of water getting stuck and rotting the cladding. Now, I’m going to set my border down one side. This will help me keep the paving nice and square. The bricks vary in length by up to 20 mm and in width by up to 10 mm, so it’s easy to lose the shape if you’re not careful. I’m going to make the gaps between them around 10 mm, but this will vary slightly to accommodate the different brick sizes. It’s all a bit of a jigsaw puzzle, really. I’m working through some lovely early spring weather here in Australia. Cold, fresh mornings that slowly warm up through the day. My fingers thaw out by around 8:30 each morning. Perfect for getting stuck in. The patio is big, but the size means it’s going to be a fantastic outdoor area for the whole family. [Music] The bricks used in this patio were made right here in North Kit, Victoria, from Clay Dud just a few hundred meters down the road. The Northkit brick works started back in 1866 and quickly grew to be a major producer, firing millions of bricks each year with their pioneering Hoffman kills. Despite some tough times during depressions and strikes, the brick works was central to Moit’s identity and economy for over a century. After the brick works eventually closed, the site was repurposed as a landfill tip where rubbish was dumped for many years to fill the quarry. Once the landfill reached capacity, the area was transformed into what is now the beautiful All Nations Park, a vibrant green space used and loved by the community. Northkid itself has seen an incredible transformation. Historically a working-class suburb known for its brick works, orchards, and industrial roots, Northkit was considered a low socioeconomic area or slum well into the 1990s. Poor transport lengths and nearby industries shaped its early development. But over the past two decades, Northkit has undergone significant gentrification. The arrival of new residents, rising property prices, and revitalization have turned it into one of Melbourne’s most livable and eclectic suburbs full of culture, cafes, and community. This patio, built with bricks from the area’s historic past, is now part of that ongoing renewal story. This pile has been sitting here for a while and I’ve noticed a few redback spiders on them. So, I’ll be a bit careful. Redbacks are pretty common around Melbourne, especially in brick piles, garden sheds, and other quiet sheltered spots. Now, I get it. They’ve got a seriously bad reputation, and lots of people are scared of them. But honestly, I find them kind of beautiful and definitely misunderstood. Like a lot of Aussie wildlife, they get an unfair wrap. Only the female redback spite is venomous, and most people only get bitten when they accidentally stick their hand into the web because these spiders tend to stay put in their nests. Their fangs are tiny, so even if you do get bitten, it usually just itches like crazy. Sometimes bites get worse with sweating, nausea, or muscle weakness, but that’s pretty uncommon. Thanks to antivenenom being around since the 50s, deaths are super rare now. They’re not aggressive little guys. They only bite if they feel threatened, like when you poke into their web by accident. Some people confuse them with black widows. They look a bit similar, but they’re actually different spiders. And yes, that bright red stripe on the female’s back is how they got their name. Besides the scary stories, red backs do some real good hunting down insects like cockroaches, flies, and moths, helping keep your garden’s ecosystem in balance. So, yeah, they might give you a fright, but they deserve some respect. as important little garden helpers. Anyway, I digress. Let’s get back to this patio. [Music] Using bricks for garden paving became widely popular in Australia during the late 1980s and early 1990s, driven by a surge in demand for durable and attractive materials for driveways, pathways, and garden areas. While bricks themselves have an ancient history used in construction and paving since Roman times, the trend of using fired bricks specifically for domestic garden paving is a fairly recent development. Bricks have been around for thousands of years with the earliest sundried bricks dating back to ancient Mesopotamia around 4,000 B.CE. Civilizations like the Egyptians and Romans later innovated with fired bricks, making them tougher and more weather resistant. The Romans were pioneers in creating roads and walkways using bricks, many of which have survived to this day, laying the foundation for the modern use of bricks and landscaping. The rise of brick paving in Australian gardens followed the industrial revolution when machines made brick production faster and more affordable. This made bricks accessible for a variety of uses beyond building walls. Paving became a popular choice due to bricks combination of durability and classic aesthetic appeal. People liked that brick pathways and patios carried a piece of history feel with a handcrafted look, bringing timeless beauty to outdoor spaces. Bricks aren’t just about good looks. They’re highly practical for modern landscaping, too. Known for their ability to withstand heavy foot traffic, harsh weather, and the test of time, brick patios stay beautiful for decades with minimal maintenance. You can customize them in countless colors, shapes, and patterns to create a unique outdoor space that complements your home. Another great benefit is that bricks are eco-friendly, made from natural clay. They are sustainable and can be recycled or repurposed. Overall, investing in a brick patio adds lasting value, both in beauty and function, to your property, connecting the rich heritage of brick making with the practical needs of today’s outdoor living. [Music] It’s another cracking day in Melbourne. Perfect for paving. I’ve really been getting some luck with the weather lately. I always try to wear a mask when using cement. It’s important to protect your lungs from harmful airborne particles, particularly crystalline silica dust, which is found in cement and can cause serious and potentially fatal lung diseases like silicosis and lung cancer. Inhaling cement dust can also lead to irritation of the nose, throat, and lungs, causing coughing, wheezing, and shortness of breath, and can contribute to chronic obstructive pulmonary disease. You can see it floating in the air after I shovel it into the mixer. If you’re going to use it, look after yourself and chuck a mask on. Better to be safe than sorry. [Music] [Music] so that this patio doesn’t look like a giant rectangle. I’m adding in a section here to break it up. This is where the barbecue is going to sit. [Music] [Music] Since there’s a large tree near the patio, I’m installing a plastic root barrier along the edge to protect the paving longterm. Most tree roots grow within the top 600 mm of soil. So, I’m digging a trench about 600 mm deep and roughly 100 mm wide. I’m placing tough, specially designed plastic root barrier into this trench. It’s made to resist root penetration. When roots growing from the tree hit the barrier, they’re diverted downwards. To make sure roots don’t grow underneath or around it, I bend the bottom part of the plastic back towards the tree. This guides the roots back towards the tree and away from the patio, preventing them from lifting bricks or causing damage years down the track. I know what you’re thinking. Rad looking over pants. I always like to look my best for you guys. [Music] I really enjoy the cutting process when working with bricks. There’s something satisfying about carefully measuring, marking, and making precise cuts. It’s a chance to slow down and focus on the details. Taking your time here is absolutely worth it because bad cuts can really stand out once the paving is done. A poorly cut brick or uneven edge can make the whole job look sloppy and rushed, even if the rest of the paving is perfect. Getting your cuts right not only improves the overall appearance, but also helps ensure everything fits together neatly and stays stable over time. So, don’t rush this part. Embrace the process. Be patient and aim for clean, crisp cuts. It really pays off in the finished look and the satisfaction of knowing you’ve done a quality job. I’m using a small batterypowered masonry saw to cut bricks and it has quite a surprising amount of power for its size. One of the best things about this saw is that you can cut with water which really helps keep the dust down while you’re working. When cutting bricks with a saw like this, you have a few options. You can cut dry and attach a dust bag or vacuum to capture the dust, but that setup can make the saw harder to maneuver. Alternatively, you can cut wet by either connecting a hose directly to the saw or by filling a water bottle attached to the saw. I prefer using the bottle method because it makes the saw and easier to handle, especially for more awkward or detailed cuts. Wet cutting not only reduces dust, but also cools the blade, which helps it cut more smoothly and last longer. Because this saw is cordless, it gives you great mobility on site without worrying about power cords getting in the way. For brick cutting projects, this type of saw strikes a good balance between power, dust control, and ease of use, making it a handy tool whether you’re a beginner or experienced DIYer. Now that all the cuts are done, I’m going to mortar them into place. The final cuts differ in size. Because these bricks naturally vary in dimensions, I use these small gaps to compensate for those differences across each row, ensuring the paving stays even and looks clean. It’s almost eerie watching those hot air balloons drifting through the morning fog. I’m sure it’s a great view, but honestly, the idea of being up there in a tiny basket full of people, fire, and gas doesn’t really appeal to me at all. Each to their own, I guess. I’ve got no issue with heights, but think I’ll give the ballooning a miss. I’ve watched some of them attempt to land on windy days, and it’s not pretty. For grouting, I’m using two different techniques on this project. For the first four rows, I’m using a grout bag. This method is perfect for avoiding any splashing on the timber cladding nearby. It keeps everything much cleaner. I find grout bags especially useful for tricky, fiddly areas or when you want to keep a specific space neat. However, I don’t use grout bags for larger areas because they tend to get blocked by even the smallest pebbles, and the finish can look rough unless you do a heavy sponge off afterwards, which kind of defeats the purpose of using the bag in the first place. It appears that my luck with the weather has finally run out. Unfortunately, it couldn’t have come at a worse time. If the freshly grouted bricks get rained on, it will cause the grout to run all over the clean bricks, and I’ll have to spend hours sponging them all off again. I’ve got the covers ready to quickly pull over the whole area if the heavens do decide to open. I’ll be honest, grouting isn’t my favorite part of the job. It can be slow and a bit tedious after a while, but it’s a crucial step. The grout fills the joints neatly, binds the brick securely, and gives the whole surface that polished, professional look that really finishes it off. The grout mix I use is a simple blend of three parts brick sand to one part cement. To make sure the clients get exactly what they want, I mix up four different types of brick sand so they can choose their favorite color and texture. It’s also important to know that the brand of cement can affect the final shade of your grout. Some make it lighter, others darker. That’s why I always recommend making a small practice batch first and letting it dry for at least 3 days. This way you can see the final color before you commit to doing the whole job. One key tip is to make sure you pack the grout right down to the bottom of the joint. Completely filling the gap is essential for strength and durability. It locks the paving together and helps prevent any shifting or movement over time. Finished just in time. I beat the dark and the rain by less than 5 minutes. That’s luck right there. Putting in a 14-hour day was worth it. Now that the grouting is done, I’m going to give the paving a light acid wash to remove the haze left behind. To protect the nearby timber cluting, I’m putting up plastic sheeting to prevent any acid splashes. The acid wash is mixed at a ratio of 10 parts water to one part acid, just enough to clean the surface without damaging the bricks or surrounding areas. You might want to consider putting in some control cuts. Personally, if any cracks do develop, I prefer to just grind them out and regrout that area. The control cuts look ugly, and repairing is quick and easy. That’s about it for the patio, but for this garden, it’s just the beginning. In my next video, I’ll be redoing the front area and building some side paths. If you have any ideas on how I can make these videos better for you, please feel free to share them in the comments. Until next time, thanks for watching and bye for now.