Hey all! I just finished building this Bellerose kit greenhouse. Now I need to keep it warm through the PNW winter. I want to use bubblewrap, but there are no tracks like metal greenhouses have, and I don't want to put staples into the wood. Is there a fastener I could use that I could install once and then clip bubble wrap to every winter, removing it in the spring?
Also, I'm caulking the windows, but any other recommendations on how to make this as insulated as possible?
by Spare-Entrepreneur60
15 Comments
So I have the Willow (smaller version of yours).
I used foam board to cover all non glazing surfaces, Including the entire north wall and 80% of the east wall… and left the glazing surfaces alone. It has 4 ply polycarbonate, which isn’t perfect… But way more insulation that a lot of greenhouses have on their glazing surfaces. I’m running a 750w space heater and it maintains 65 degrees at 20 degrees outside so far. It doesn’t seem to struggle, but during 10 degree nights I can turn my heater up to 1500w.
You’re looking for insulation and “r value” is the building term to measure of how well products insulate. Use real insulation foam panels and a foam board cutter to make the exact sizes you want. Bubble wrap won’t get you past r 1-1.5. While foam panels will get you much further. I agree with fully insulating the north wall because it’s always dark. Make heat, retain heat while maintaining air flow while fighting pests. Good luck on your journey.
I use either drawing pins or drive small ferrous screws into the woodwork and little neodymium magnets from Amazon to affix. Reason is that in spring when it’s still a bit cold you can remove them easily without the annoyance of inaccuracies due to cold fingertips.
I use map/cork board pins with the plastic top ( looks like pawn from chess) , you can see and t remove them really easily
Staple gun
Someone here told me about wiggle wire and I am so glad. I am using insulation on the north side and thick plastic on the other sides.
Not sure how wiggle wire will work with bubble wrap, I think it would have to be the thick, large bubble kind?
I use clear gorilla tape. I have to re-apply pressure to certain high stress points about every week when they become detached. The tape can be re-stuck so long as it remains relatively clean.
Thumb tacks
There’s a “Backyard Discovery Greenhouse Owners” (the manufacturer of the Bellerose) group on FB – they might have some ideas.
Assuming you use the solar pool cover style where it’s cut into big sheets for each bay, I use eyelet screws and clothesline to hold it in place.
Hi I just posted with this same quandary. A genius commentator uses magnets, which I am looking into. I have a harbor freight style aluminum frame gh and no tape will stay after condensation sets in. I will add that insulation is only as good as your weakest point. If you are going to the trouble try to overlap and seal any gaps through which costly warm air can escape
What product did you use for the gaps at the bottom of the walls? Is it just caulk?
Ok. I’m in zone 5 of eastern Washington State. My greenhouse is dug in 4 feet into the soil and I have a retaining wall is behind/below grade and my lower wall is all insulated closed cell foam. I have soil beds and retaining walls holding it all back, this helps push back against the below grade soil. The structure is all pressure treated and the upper half/4 feet is triple wall polycarbonate. In the worst of winter I run 2 1600 watt heaters. Otherwise I run ceramic, thermostat controlled unit for the cost savings.
My problems are too much heat gain in summer and too much moisture in winter. I have 3 small fans and heaters with fans to push air around. Plants do great, bananas, mango, orchids and other various houseplants. My plans to fix my two problems is to have underground pipes well below frost to pull outside air in how summer cooling and winter warming with the soil contact. Basically dry air for the winter and cool air for the summer.
For your situation I think the lower half will allow too much temperature fluctuations as wood is a poor insulator and the poly will drip water down the surface and pool on the wood. I think cool weather plants will do just fine in your greenhouse and I’d keep the soil a bit on the dry side. You could put closed cell foam board on the wood but run the problem of condensation building up on the wood making for rot and fungal growth. A possible solution would be to have a grow tent in the greenhouse if you plan on orchids that are on the sensitive side. Otherwise it’s a nice looking greenhouse, play with getting some power out there to open up some options.
Use roofing felt fasteners.
Was this custom built or ordered greenhouse? It’s beautiful