CORVALLIS, Ore. — Gardening on the often-extreme Oregon coast might seem intimidating and risky.
“You can grow a lot of things. It’s not warm, but it doesn’t get too cold. The growing season lasts from mid-February to early to mid-October.”
But Carla Albright, an Oregon State University Extension Service Master Gardener volunteer who lives just north of Tillamook, wants to reassure you that it is possible to grow a wonderful garden — even if you live next door to the Pacific. Albright wrote a book on the subject: Coastal Gardening in the Pacific Northwest: From Northern California to British Columbia
“There are some things you can’t do very well on the coast, like tomatoes,” Albright said. “But it can be a great place to grow a garden with shrubs, perennials and hardy annuals. You can grow a lot of things. It’s not warm, but it doesn’t get too cold. The growing season lasts from mid-February to early to mid-October.”
Fierce coastal gusts can take the wind out of your garden’s sails in a hurry.
“Our biggest problem is wind,” Albright said. “We get it from the south in the winter and from the north in the summer. There’s a colder wind in the summertime and it can seem quite gusty. We’ve gotten gusts from 45–65 mph. You have to be aware of that when you plan a garden and allow for wind breaks.”
To shield vulnerable plants, picket fencing can help. Large, wind-hardy plants such as escallonia, rhododendrons and euonymus can serve as living windbreaks. As you design, observe wind direction as well as sun and shade patterns across your yard.
Know your microclimate
Though inland residents might view the long stretch of land bordering the Pacific Ocean as simply “the coast,” it’s actually made up of countless microclimates. A microclimate is the climate of a very small area that differs from the surrounding area. Oregon’s coast includes two U.S. Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zones — Zone 9a (Astoria to Sand Lake) and Zone 9b (Sand Lake to Brookings). Slightly inland areas are often Zones 8a and 8b as well.
“There are even microclimates within a garden within the length of a season,” Albright said. “My garden has four to five microclimates.”
Ornamentals that thrive
If you want to plant ornamentals, Albright’s picks for coastal standouts include azalea, heather, lavender, Mexican sage, hostas, Choisya shrubs and Japanese maples.
Vegetable strategies for the coast
Vegetables can be trickier.
“You have to really watch out for that north wind in the summer and you need a lot of sun,” Albright said. “I’ve found cherry or grape tomatoes do better because they don’t take as long to ripen. You want short-season vegetables that take 75–85 days to reach maturity.”
Short-season vegetables include:
Mustard
Lettuce
Spinach
Kale
Brussels sprouts
Fava beans
Endive
Peas
Broccoli
Cabbage
Carrots
Beets
Parsnips
Beans
Squash
Chard
Potatoes
Onion
Radish
Cucumbers
Soil, beds and season extension
Albright recommends installing raised beds rather than planting directly in sandy soils. Compost helps improve the coast’s acidic and sometimes very alkaline soils.
Greenhouses are also a good option for extending the growing season. You can also use covers made of light, permeable material such as plastic to shield plants from cold and rain — but make sure they’re secured against the wind.
For more information about coastal gardening, contact the Master Gardeners at your county OSU Extension office.
Previously titled Coastal gardening brings challenges and rewards
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