Last week, we covered trees you could use to replace those lost to the summer solstice storm. There are also a wide variety of shrubs available to use as windbreaks, wildlife habitat and other conservation practices to help replenish what was ruined.
Shrubs, used along with evergreen trees, make a multi-layered windbreak to protect from soil erosion, act as a natural snow fence and bring wildlife to your yard.
Planting them along the north and west property can also serve as a wind barrier to make your home more energy efficient.
One thing to keep in mind when selecting shrubs to plant is making sure they are hardy for this area. We are in growing Zone 3, which means shrubs must be able to withstand -40 degree weather for prolonged periods. Choosing shrubs that are native to the area can ensure better survival.
Another item to be mindful of is the location. Think right plant in the right place. Shrubs able to grow just about any place include the common lilac, caragana, chokecherry and amur maple. Ninebark, Chokeberry, elderberry, nanny berry and service berry (Juneberry) are other shrubs to plant in a windbreak.
Flowering crabapples are another option. These help pollinators and create beauty throughout the season. The berry shrubs also supply delicious jams and jellies for those who forage.
If you are planting in a lowland wet soil, some shrubs that would thrive include red osier (red twig) dogwood, highbush cranberries, cedar and willows. The dogwood’s red bark and some yellow willows make for an interesting contrast to the snowy landscape in winter.
Many of the above-mentioned shrubs will be available to order this winter through the Soil and Water Conservation District. Some of these shrubs are still available at local garden centers to plant this fall.
Shrubs that do well in sandy soil include sumac, junipers and evergreens. Sumac berry stems can be used in porch pots as decorative foliage. Some juniper berries are edible and are used to add flavor food and drinks.
Some showy shrubs for accents in your front yard or around a patio, deck or foundation include hydrangeas (which can be in partial shade) or spirea and potentilla (both full-sun flowering shrubs).
The list is long for landscape shrubs and really is a personal choice. Do you want a formal look or a natural look? Or a combination of both? Local garden centers can assist with plant selection depending on the look you want to achieve.
Newly planted shrubs need to be planted at the right depth in the ground. You should be able to see the ground-level mark on the bark of the shrubs you plant. Make a saucer around them to hold the water, then water daily for a couple of weeks. Once established, watering will be less frequent.
Don’t assume a shower of rain once a week is enough. Keep watering weekly unless an inch of rain is recorded. Also, make sure to thoroughly water your shrubs shortly before the ground freezes in the fall. Applying mulch around your shrubs will keep weeds to a minimum and help retain moisture.
More information can be found in the article,
“Watering newly planted trees and shrubs”
on the UMN Extension website.
Remember to protect your shrubs from critters, especially deer. Using a repellent found at garden centers and hardware stores works well on young shrubs. Within a couple of years, they should be established enough to withstand a few nibbles, or you can continue to apply the repellent.
Are you interested in becoming a Master Gardener? Visit
extension.umn.edu/master-gardener/about-master-gardener
or email
mgweb@umn.edu
to learn more about the Master Gardener volunteer program.
These local garden articles will reach you each week throughout the gardening season, but gardening information can be found year-round by clicking on “Yard and Garden” at the University of Minnesota Extension website,
www.extension.umn.edu,
or by visiting our Facebook page at
www.facebook.com/Beltramicountymastergardeners.
Local Master Gardeners will respond to questions via voicemail. Call
(218) 444-7916,
and leave your name, number and question.
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