Project Driog – Episode 23 – A 16mm Garden Railway

In this video build log we’ll take you behind the scenes of building a garden railway, and show you how we do it. There’ll be mistakes along the way and things will change and develop but that’s part of the fun of it!
So come and follow along with us, as we build the SLR V2!

00:00 Progress Update
03:00 Turntable
06:52 1:1 Scale Railway
10:10 Sprung Point
24:05 Future Changes
27:00 Front Garden Plans

Where the hell’s me gone? Well, it’s been a while. Few weeks in fact, but the wall’s looking much better now. Rubbing the uh cold dust on it and a bit of water has made a huge difference. It looks a lot more weathered in now and doesn’t look like it was built couple of years ago. Much better. But I haven’t just been sat waiting for the wall to uh weather and look better. I have been doing some other work over here in fact with more ballasting done. So I’m not doing anything that way because I might change the track plan that way a little bit. But I have ballasted from here round as far as I could. So I’ve done the line up the quarry which you saw us fixing down the other day. Um some of this was ballast that we took up from the old line that I’ve reused on this section. So it’s a bit rougher. But as it’s the quarry line, I’m not too worried about that. But that’s looking a lot better. And then brought it all the way around to here, which is where I ran out of SPR. So more SBI now required so I can continue but uh but yeah as always when you put some ballast down it looks way better when you do that. So uh so yeah so we can carry on that way with some of it. Again I need to finish this quarry. So I’ll only be doing the main line probably that way. But then there’s more down that end of the garden. So we’ll go down there and see what I’ve done down there. Can we mention the bit of fence on the way past? because eagle-eyed people will have spotted a bit of fence. Yeah, it could do. Yeah, have to put in the comments if you can remember where that that’s uh bit of fence has come from because it has been uh reused. So, put in the comments where you think it’s come from from the old line. From the from the old line. We’ll see. I’ll give him a clue. Well, I mean that bit, too. Let’s see if anybody’s good enough to know where that bit came from. That’s That’s even more difficult that one. See, it Oh, so I don’t whether we talked about we’ve put some more plants in here. Plants. I don’t think we have. I can’t remember what they are. We’ll probably put up They’re a time They’re I haven’t yet tested the soil. I haven’t done anything with it. I’ve put them in. They’re bigger than the ones we put in previously. We put them in when it was sun and rain and all sorts to give them the best chance. So, they seem okay. Let’s just see. They seem all right now. But then things in the past have seemed all right. So, I don’t know. I don’t really want to have to dig it all off. So, that’s my third attempt. I think it is now. But yeah, that’s that. But down here on the new steamup bay area bit, whatever we’re calling it, it needs a name. It needs a name. We have a turntable in. So, you’ve seen me putting this before. It’s a Swift 16 um turntable, but it is now all fitting and painted up. So, what I decided to do was I didn’t want to just put normal track over the turntable. I wanted to do something a bit different. So, I I’ve actually um utilized our printing of SLR models to make some chairs. And I’ve not put sleepers on. Basically, I’ve made thicker chairs to raise the height up. The bolts that are in them are actually separately printed, which I would say was on purpose, but it wasn’t. I just designed the chairs with a hole in cuz that’s what a chair looks like. And then thought about the fact that I need to fix them down, and I didn’t want to have to then actually fix them down to this with a load of tiny bolts and screws. So, these are actually printed separate to fill the holes, but that meant that they’re all at different angles, which makes it look a lot more real. So, I’ll say that was on purpose. But yeah, basically stuck them on. Getting these on here in line is a real pain because if you are slightly off center, when you do 360, it will be way off. Because when one end’s lined up, the other end will not be because if you’re off to one side, it will then it like that. So, this is on second attempt. It’s still not perfect. So, I have compensated by just bending the approach rails out slightly and just shampering the edges. Um, I don’t know whether it shows up on camera, but it’s quite hard to say. Take his word for it. It shouldn’t be that much. I’ve tried a few things over it. They don’t derail. So, um, but I didn’t want it that you had to make sure it was always in the same orientation to run over. Um, because that’s just a pain. So, I’ve done it like this where it can be in either way and things should run over it. But, uh, yeah. So, I’ve done that and then give it a a good weathering um, as well to get it all to blend in. Again, I put the chairs on the outside of of here and then just rails on on from there. There will be another track at some point here which would be like a wagon repair um building which should probably go somewhere here and we put some buildings down this side. So that’s why I’ve sort of weathered the lines in there just while I had the stuff out and that’s kind of sat there, but I’m not going to fix that in yet. Um because there’s things to do down the back here and I don’t want to it to be in the way. So So yeah, that’s that in which means this area is a lot more usable now because you can run here and and actually run around whereas you couldn’t before. another one of our big uh buffer stops that were the off cuts of the sleeper that we um cut up. So, another one of those on there for that line. That line I didn’t put one on, but you’re going to run into the fence anyway. So, that one’s not really a no uh an issue there. And uh and yeah, so they’re not ballasted yet because I want to give it a good test over and run and cuz I want to finish off bits and pieces. This end, this end, these aren’t yet actually fixed down cuz obviously this is supposed to be coming down on the bridge. And this one at the back might change as well. So that’s why I don’t want to. Um and these aren’t fixed. These are just sat there just as a end stop. So yeah, so bit more work to do on there. But another thing we’re working on on which isn’t modeling is in fact full size is we now have another gauge of railway in the garden because we have filled the hole in the patio. If you’ve watched any other videos, there was a bit of a hole in this patio. It used to be a tree that was in and we’ve actually now got some twoft rail, historic rail um given to us by a friend that came out of a factory in Manchester. Manchester. Um yeah, from the 1880s, I think. Yes. Yeah. It’s it’s got some age to it. It’s it’s seen many things in its life and now it is seeing our garden. Um so, yes. So, we put that in. Obviously, because I didn’t want chair legs and things to drop down the flange way, it’s just got bits of wood in to uh fill those in. And then we have got some reclaimed cobbles and put those in as well. Quite possibly the single most expensive thing we could have chosen to put in there. Yep. Proper granite cobbles. Um they were a nightmare to get in. They’re about six or seven in deep. You don’t see they’re very deep because of the the proper things. And yes, they probably should be a lot closer to each other if you had loads of them and a load of time and everything else, but this took long enough to get these in the way they are because you cannot really chisel anything off them. They are rock hard. Strange enough granite. Um, and even with a stone saw, it’s a bit of a job because you don’t want to have a stone saw cut on the top. So, yes. So, we’ve done that. It’s got this jointing mix around it. Um, which I’ll see how it goes. I’m not 100% convinced on how well it will last, but it has set. So, we will see on that. I’ve sort of mixed reviews of it. Um, but anyway, it is made this leveler. It is nowhere near level because they’re cobbles and although some of them are flat, some of them are a little bit up and down things and I won’t have got them perfectly in but it’s filled a hole. You won’t fall into it which was getting rather annoying having to fall into it all the time. So, uh, so there we go. That’s that done. And that’s pretty much everything updated currently, but we were going to have a look at sorting a point in a bit. So, we’ll have a look at that of what we’re going to do in a minute. Except I’ve just spotted something very cool and I’m going to interrupt you. Oh, don’t move. No, the frog. There was the frog. A walk across. Little frog. Oh, that’s so good to see the frog. There’s a lot of wildlife going on today. The fish are very active. The bees are very active. Everything’s very active. Yeah. And the frog’s back. Anyway, you wanted to look at a point. So, this point is the one that sends you up the bank up to the front loop. And we haven’t made it sprung yet. Um, it is just on the pico spring for selecting which way. Which means because of the way you run here, if you come through the swung point that’s under the tunnel and flick this across and then keep running round, you’ll never actually go up to the top. So, you have to every time flick it back across to choose to go up to the top. So, the plan is to make this sprung so that if you’re approaching from this direction, you will go up to the top. If you if you’re coming around the other way, you won’t you’ll just do this loop, which should mean if you’re just running on your own, you will go around these two loops once and then the front loop and the far loop once and then these two loops again and you you repeat. So depending, you know, changing the direction. That’s the if you’re running multiple people, it’s going to be hit miss whether you go up to the top or not. Um, which we’re going to then also solve. But to start with, we just need to make this sprung. And there’s various ways of making sprung points. I have a method I’ve used here, which seems to be working fairly well, which is really simple. It’s almost too simple to think that it actually works, but it does seem to do. Um, so I’ll show you some of the other points that I’ve done already. And then I’ll try and show you how I make the wire spring for this one on how I convert a pico point. Um, and then I’m also with this one going to fit an override to it as well, which is something I’ve not done yet. So this will be new bit, but hopefully the spring bit will just work. So we’ll have a look at two versions. So over here on this one, this one is actually a push. So what we’re going to make is this little spring steel wire at this side. And what you’ll see on this point is it’s pushing that across. So the spring that comes with the pico point has been removed. So it’s not trying to click across to each side. This one has basically replaced it and it’s just trying to push that across. The bit I like about this is it can be really light as long as your point is because that’s the first thing you got to do is make sure your points really easy to to move. You can make that spring really light and by going such a long distance it’s still got the push to push it across but easy to overcome which means light stock and go through. The other little advantage is is if you can if you pick up that wire, you can actually then make it so that it doesn’t spring it. So you can basically remove the spring really easily and then just by placing that back on again, it’s back sprung again. So that’s handy if something’s causing problems. You can just lift it off if you want to always go that direction. But again, I I’m going to put a another option on on the point we’re going to do. That’s how to make it push. And then another quick example over this side is exactly the same idea, but this one’s just pulling the point across. And the advantage with that is you can put then the spring at either side. So if it’s if it’s easier to have it at one side than the other um because other things are in the way, you can make it push or pull, it doesn’t matter. So, we’re going to make this little bit of of wire. Now, the wire I’m using I purchased many, many years ago, and it is actually wire size nine um for harpsacords, apparently. I think I just got it off eBay looking for a bit of wire that was about the size I needed for something else. The old railway had a bit of fence in it and that’s what it was purchased for. But it’s 6 mil like spring steel is what I would call it. Um whether it is or not I’m not sure. Somebody that knows harps accords will possibly correct. But it’s very springy. It’s definitely steel because it does rust. And that is one of the problems I have with it is over time these do rust away and then fail. Um, but you’ll see it is springy but light. And that is the key thing to making this work. So, I’m going to try and not unravel this whole thing of it and fire it everywhere, which is a little bit difficult cuz it does just want to explode in your hands. If I can get it back in the packet so it’s safe. Come on. Back in you go. You shouldn’t have taken it out of the packet like that. So, I’ve got a length. I’m just going to cut they like has a little end on it where they’ve uh made it. So, I’m just going to cut that off there for a second. So, the first thing I do, try and keep it in its packet, is make the loop. And the loop is going to go around the little sticky up pins that are on the pico point. So, we need to make it go around that. So to do that, I’m just using a pair of long nose, snip nose pliers and just grab the end and I make the loop around those. Hopefully you can see that. This is probably the worst place to stand to do this. And then I’ll just tighten it up slightly with the pliers. And that should then fit unless I’ve tightened it up too much, which I have. I can get me pliers into it. Obviously, it wants to spring absolutely everywhere. All right, that should work. And then still trying to explode out the packet. If I can get a length out. This is where I’m sort of guesstimating, but I don’t know. What’s that? 4 in. 4 in or so. Maybe something around that. We’re just going to cut that off. And that saves it then trying to explode out the packet. So now we’re basically going to bend it in half. So I need to sort of roughly guesstimate where half is. Although I’m not going to go half. All right, we’ll go 2/3 because you’ll see in a minute. I want this just slightly longer. So, I’m going to go about there. That flat. I’m going to bend to make one of those. And this is the trick. So, the next thing we’re going to do is obviously we need to remove the spring from the pico point. So, we’re just going to pop off this cover very carefully. Remove that spring and keep hold of it because then you can repair other points. So, now there’s no spring on that. We’re going to get this bit of wire and I’m going to do it on this side, but just for the camera’s sake on these points, on the pico points, these chairs obviously don’t have anything on the inside cuz that point blade’s got to go across, which means when you push the rail in, it comes away from the away from the chairs. And that just gives you enough room. If I do it on the back here, to slide this wire in. I managed to get it out front like that. And it sits behind him and it sits into a little groove that’s in them. So, you’re not really pinching in on uh on the gauge at all. And then if I just pull it back slightly. Probably gonna have to make my loop slightly bigger. But I’ve now put it onto there and it should Oh, first time spring like that. Then what you can do is depending how much how tight that bend is in the middle of your loop is how much force it has. So the more bend you have on it, the more force it’s going to pull because it’s using this whole arching bit to basically put the force on it. But you’re you can adjust the amount of sort of spring is in in this steel by adjusting that. And you can quite easily do it by just pushing it against the rail with your fingers. And you can already feel it’s getting lighter. And of course then I just pop it out of the uh out of the chairs. So, I’ll just slide it back in again if I can with my fingers. Yeah. And that’s how I’m making a strong point. Now, with this one, I want to have an override on it. So, if you want to just run round on the level, I want to be able to push it into this position and leave it there. So, I’m going to use a 10 mil point lever because that’s what I’ve got. And the plan is to basically position it about there. So, this can still spring. Probably just go back slightly with it. And then put it the right way around. Might help. That’s how I wanted it because it’s going to sit just under there. And then as you throw it over, it’s basically just going to push on the uh on that pin that’s there as he flicks the thing off. I need to get it down a little bit lower so it’s not pushing the uh the spring bit off. But that’s basically how it’s going to work. And then as you release that, it’s going to allow that to go back to bean sprung. So, a little bit fiddly of job, but something’s to work out yet. Yeah, that’s the theory. That is the theory. Push that over. Yeah, it wants to push this off, which I think it’s just my end wants to be a little bit tighter cuz it’s We may have to create something to kind of clamp that onto there so that it can Yeah. Or what I could do actually with this one, I’m I’m I’m developing on the fly here is if I just do a little bit of a bend on this. The problem is it’s hitting the metal is the issue. And in fact, I think I have done this on one of the other ones that I’ve made. So, if I do a bend like that to give it a look and then hold it on there. That will keep that spring out of the mechanism hopefully. And that’s override. And I can get me finger out the way. That’s back to being sprung. So that’s a theory. I’ve got this set low enough that it it’s below the rail height, so nothing should hit it. Um, in theory, I mean, they’ve got to get over this the rock section that’s just the side of the camera here anyway. So, as long as I’m lower than that, we should be all right. And I’m just going to probably SPR this. I don’t really want to drill it because I’m concerned that it’ll crack the stone. So, a bit of ballast around it, SPR it, and it’s it doesn’t need a lot of force to push that over. So, and that should do us. So, anyway, that’s my method of doing sprung points. Um, there are many, many others, and we’ll see how long it lasts. So far, the ones I’ve done have lasted two years, I want to say, year and a half. They still still work fine. you had to remake one bus cuz it vanished. Oh yes, they do. You do have to be careful if you’re adjusting them. They can obviously spring fire off into the garden never to be seen again. So there’s that problem. But you can buy obviously plenty of the wire and just keep making them if that happens. So it’s not the end of the world. So there you go. My version of a sprung point. This might not stay here uh in few years. Uh yeah, about that. Hang on. Where’s the bridge gone? Never mind that. Where the hell’s me shed gone? I’m sure I left it here. I definitely left it here, didn’t I? Well, I think so. Aliens, obviously. Well, yes, in all seriousness, it has actually gone. We did sort of drop hints that things might change in this area. And we were sort of working on the time scale that that would be next year, not this year. But it has been a number of months actually since we put this in. Just editing and videos out and things. I mean, for you guys, it’s probably not very long. Unless the editing for this bit takes a while. But anyway, we have had to take it out because plans have accelerated on what we’re doing where the shed was. That will affect the railway obviously. But it gives us an opportunity to make it obviously a little bit bigger. Of course, I’m going to make it smaller, wasn’t I? So, this bit’s gone for now. This bit will be going very soon. So that we can put something rather large building like in this area. It’s sort of railway related, but not really rail related, but we’ll talk about that another time once we’ve got a bit pro progress on it. But in the meantime, we need to put some bits and pieces in for this, which means railway has to come out, but we’re probably going to start work on the new bit of the railway at the same time while we get stuff done. So, for now, we’re going to take it out, reroute the line down the back here, and we’ll go over what it’s going to do up there. But you’ll see a sort of bouncing between this project and railway project, which means things will be slower once again. I’m sorry. We’re just going to be slower this year. It’s just the way it is. But yes, we did enjoy this bit while I was in and the bridge will be fit in the new bit. Fear not. I am definitely keeping that bridge cuz it’s fantastic. So, uh anyway, we’ve got work to do on this and then we’ll bring you back while we look at that. As talked about, loop has gone, which is a shame, but there are plans of foot to make it even better. So, what we’re going to do, we’ll guide you around what we’ve sort of laid out. Hopefully, you can follow it and but we’ll start at coming up the line. So from down the back. So we’ll go over here and far side of the budier if you remember. This was the upline and it did come through the middle of the budier which is unfortunately had to be severely chopped back. We’re hoping to sort of keep at least this bit of it. This bit’s a bit close to where we’re working but that’s the plan there. So that all ply is actually going to now go down this side of the bley. down here. So, the one at the back is your down line. We’ll get to that in a minute. So, it’s going to come on this outside edge and come into this curve here. Again, 4 foot where we find bridge. So, we’ve put this bridge in. We put another uh post in here or moved a post to here and just widened out this section um so we can get this bridge fixed. So, I’ve fixed this end. The other engine, as you’ll see, is temporary at the minute, just to get an idea of where we’re heading. So, this bridge spans across. This is all going up. Once you get onto the bridge, you’re heading back down again. So, we might have to just think about cresting at this point. That’s the only bit we’re concerned about at a minute. This bit might just have to tilt down slightly to smooth off the top of the hill. But we’re heading down here, which gets us to this end. So, at the minute, this is all just placed here. I’ve made a temporary uh piece to basically hold the bridge up at the level that I want it at cuz we’re coming down. Plans to build a bit of a stone pillar at this end with these basically stones I’ve got left. um which is going to go there, which is what the bridge is going to sit onto. Then from that point on, we’re basically falling down here. So, we’ve already fallen a little bit on the bridge, but we’re going to fall more down here. This will be potentially 1 in 40 down. I’m hoping to get it a little bit better than that uh with the length, but doing the calculations, it’s around that 1 in40 to 1 in 50 sort of mark. So downhill, I’m not too concerned about that, especially on a curve because you’re not going to go too quick. Uh cuz the resistance around the curb. So this section here, I’m thinking we were going to build it up using the stone flags that I’ve got some of either side of it. So they won’t come up really above the track level or slight only slightly. Um it won’t be like really high, but it’s that’s the sort of idea I’m going for. Whether I’ll be able to achieve that or not, I’m not sure yet, but we’re going to give it a go. Obviously fill the middle in and that’ll be concreted in. So you’ll follow around here all the way to here. There’s a short section of straight here. This short section here might shift round here to basically change our distances and things there, but it’ll be somewhere in this vicinity. We’re going to cross over here. This uh piece of wood will be cut back anyway cuz this is all going to become one flower bed. And then as you can see the slate along here this section of drive is going anyway which is what this red line’s denoting is where the new edge of the drive will be. So this will all be flower bed but with the track coming down here again 4ft radius and into a straight section here just in front of the building that we’re hoping to put in here. So again, that straight section can shift as and where along these radiuses to get the ends to meet where I want them to be. Following round here, another 4ft radius round here. And then onto this, and we’re heading underneath the bridge. So basically, it’s a big spiral to get underneath the bridge. I’ve put this um old bit of uh bridge section that we had in from the old line in here. It’s not quite the right radius. So, we’ll have to modify this. We’re going to use it. Um, and it’s really too wide because we don’t need the two tracks. We just need one. But my thoughts here are we’re obviously right next to the tree and there’s a number of tree roots down here. So, if I put a concrete base in, it’s probably just going to move it all. Um, not so the tree really grows that much. We keep it trimmed, but it inevitably will. So, my thought is if I can get down where there isn’t a tree root to get a solid base at each end. If it does then move it, it’s a lot easier to just adjust each end rather than having a big lump in the middle because the bridge will stay flat because it’s spanning over anything that will move. That’s the theory anyway. But yeah, into here we should get the um 200 mil height from rail top to underside of bridge under here with that distance. And then we’re basically going straight under there. So if we then come all the way around here, we’re just nipping down here. So this piece up here where it’s all sort of piled at the minute, bit rough. This will be uh this height. So you can either come between this section and this down here. And then you’re basically going to follow in front of the wall that’s going to be here. And from this point on where we come underneath, we’re going to be climbing again. So again, one in 50 back up, following this curve round where you can see we’ve moved the slates out. And then at this point here, we’re going to curve back the other way cuz we’re heading up the hill. Still climbing around basically where the brick is here. And we’re going to go across the path here. So this would be a section where the track will be sort of cemented in. So you can’t kick it or anything like that. You can just walk over it. Heightwise, possibly just above where the slate level is is what we’re thinking, but we need to do all the measurements. We’ve done the mass and in theory it’s around that, but we actually need to put some stakes in the ground and confirm it. So it be around there. And then the section we haven’t got marked out yet. It will then be heading up through all of this somewhere. I can’t get you and that in at the same time. Possibly do a bit of a wiggle through here or whatever. But we then and and this uh section here is I think we measured it. The drive is around one in 40. So, it’ll be coming in slightly high and losing some height in theory, although we need to get slightly high there. So, it’s all a bit Yeah, the ground very low. It doesn’t show on camera. It’s It’s steeper than it looks, is the ground, but it will be pretty low here. Um, so mainly so we don’t worry about kicking it when you get out the car or car doors and things like that. It’s going to be sunk down. Come around here and come around this top edge here. Again, it’ll be nice and low and and inset in. So, you can just walk over it. And then we’re going to go straight into this old filter loop from the old old line. So, we talked about this being up this top end previously. This is basically where we were planning on putting it. So, we’re going to come in to here. So, yes, which you helpfully can’t see because of a massive plan. No, I’ve put all the blocks concrete blocks. We’re basically coming on the straight cuz this radius here is 2 foot six. 2 foot six. So, we want to be 4 foot. So, we’re we’re avoiding all of this. So, there’ll be a point in here, a 38 in radius point will go in there, and you’ll be running straight through it. You won’t be running on the 38 in radius through that section. So, this is basically where we intended to have it originally. Obviously, all this plan has changed somewhat since the original idea that I came up with. Um, but that’s what happens sometimes into the straight from that point. This will just be cut a bit shorter cuz I don’t think this is the right radius. And yeah, it’s not. We need to get into here. But from here basically we are going into where this old mess is currently a sort of station few sidings passing loop sections along here. Um by the way I didn’t say the height. This is actually higher than it should be. It will be almost down at the slate level at this top edge here. So this will will basically just dig it in and sink it in. Didn’t you have a mark on a fence? We did. It is. If you can just about see it, it’s basically I can’t a little bit slate, but it’s it’s just there. So, it’s Yeah. Now, this ground’s sloping off. So, obviously that edge of the thing here. Yeah. Cuz this will be level to the back will be slightly higher. Um Yeah, it’s probably about right at this end, just not. Yeah, it might still be a bit high there, but it’ll just sink into the ground slightly, which sounds very easy, but I suspect, won’t we? Yeah, we’ll probably hit every bit of stone there is. But yeah, and then basically it’s something like it goes from from there round. It just magically joins back up over there. We don’t worry about what’s in this bit. Yeah. No, that’s that something will happen there. That’s yet to be and Yes. And you will then come down here and obviously I’ve just stuck this point in the back there just to see how it was all going to look. Um but two lines down here or whatever, however many lines. And that is then your back line back down. So you’ll be coming up round under along front edge here up all the way around the top and back down again. Um whereas previously we were just coming up doing a loop and back down with an extension to come and you could come and play up in this area. You only really would come up to the top here before if you could do the 2 foot six or you were going to run round. Whereas now we’re extending the 4 foot to make it longer because we had to do this loop anyway. So we thought why not? Yeah, why not make it more interesting? I mean we did go through sort of five or six different revisions on this quite a few goes. Um, I just we hadn’t got anywhere on the line where we had height difference with two tracks and I quite like seeing that other people’s railway. So, I was like, can we get it in here? And we wondered if we could come up, but I actually want to get this top section a bit lower than I originally planned to. Um, especially if we’re passing uh places where we walk in. Yes. Cuz I don’t want to have to step over it. So, it has actually turned out that we’re going to go down then just follow the ground level up is how it’s going to sort of work. So, yeah, quite a lot more work now of course by designing to do this. So, it will be a while before we get all that done. More videos, more videos, more content, more editing. Oh, yeah. But, uh, yeah, that’s kind of the theory. So, next bit fix really to do well other than building work uh will be to try and get this section in and probably this one in at the same time because we might as well do this and this at the same time. They’re going to be the complicated bit. Yeah. Um, we might possibly put a temporary wood section down here so that if while we’ve doing all of this, you can run up here and run around just so that we’re using this section. Haven’t be a dead end as it is currently. But, uh, yeah, that’s kind of the theory. What we will do pretty much next is put some pegs in. So, get a piece of wood. What we’re probably going to do is basically where the track is or either side. I haven’t quite decided yet, especially on this bit when I want to build things is put a peg in the ground, knock it down to get the the height of where the track level will be and we’ll follow that round and basically just check our mass that we are actually going to get down to the right level for here. And then probably using the laser line at that point cuz you’re going to you can’t really bang a peg all the way around there cuz most of them are going to be drown level or just above. And probably then just use a laser line to check all the ones up here as well. Um to make sure we are at not going to run into the ground up there or make this a big downhill bob sled. It’s not the idea. to nice nicely go down it. So, uh see it would be nice to have it so that you could reverse it and run up it if you wanted to. Yes, which a one in 40. Most things should still run up that the other way, but um there’s no reason why you couldn’t reverse and come up come all the way around here and then steam your way up there and back down again. Quite how we do that at that end. We that would involve points being sprung both directions. Yeah. Like Yeah. Yeah, we’ll work it out. We’ll run it that way once we’ve built it and see how easy it is. M true. But that is the plan. Running it that way would be nice because it would mean that this loop here is not facing the wrong direction. Yeah. Because any any people that were paying attention, you come from this side that that way you you can’t Yes. You’d have to reverse to get into the loop. Well, you’d have to run around station or we basically just put a method of getting from the upline to the down line. Yes, we did talk about that before. I was using a bit of wood to basically pop across from this line to make your way over here. pop across from this line to that line, which means you could then as you’re coming up go straight into the station. That That’s probably another thing we might do, which would mean we could leave that one down there as sprung. True. And yeah, and you can even spring that one back that way with an override here. Yeah. Anyway, we’ll work that out. Possibilities. There’s a lot of possibilities. Yeah. Yeah. So, so obviously here we’ve we’ve widened this section out. I remember we didn’t mention that. Put a post in to allow it to be a bit wider and stronger cuz he can’t go anywhere. Whereas it just off the off the fence before, which is fine for one track, but for two, I didn’t really trust it. So, now we’ve got another post in there. That post is already in. That’s new post there. So, it’s now all nice and strong along here. And that’s basically it for the minute, I think. So, yeah, peg’s next, but that’s it probably for today. What you haven’t really seen is the amount of tidying and moving that’s had to take place to get to this stage. Yeah, because it is like playing Tetris up in this top. Yeah, they are. I mean, the garden now cuz there’s those concrete flags that you saw up there. They’re not flags. They’re blocked. Blocked. But they’ve all moved. There’s some over here. There. There’s bits over here. There’s lots of slate as have to move from here, there, and everywhere. Oh, it’s amazing how much slate there is on here. It’s It’s deep in places. Yeah. So, yeah, there’s a lot of that have to take place. But we’ve now I can visualize it now, which is what I wanted to do. Yeah. And I think it’s going to work. We’ll just have to play with levels and position of straights and things to get it all to align. And there we go. Right, that’ll do for today. We have a plan. Just going to build it now.