Get Picture-Perfect Edges in your Lawn with this simple method

Want to achieve that picture-perfect lawn with clean, sharp edges? In this video, I’ll show you an easy, step-by-step method to edge your lawn that works for any type of grass, including the notoriously invasive Bermuda grass. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, these tips will help you maintain a neat and professional-looking lawn with minimal effort.

You’ll learn:

– How to choose the right tools for edging
– Techniques to create precise, clean edges
– How to keep those edges looking great over time

By following these simple steps, you can transform your lawn’s appearance and keep it looking its best, no matter what challenges your grass type presents.

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Garden Weasel Edge Chopper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EQUAVP4

#lawncare #lawnedging #howto #bermudagrass #legallylawned

Hey guys, Cosmo here. So, any of you that have lived with Bermuda for any period of time have experienced what I’m about to show you. I’ll show you some spots here in a minute and the rest of the yard where I have done what I’m going to do to this mulch bed. But, I mean, this is just the life of living with Bermuda, right? The Bermuda’s going to crawl in. Why? Because there’s moisture in the mulch and Bermuda’s going to chase the water. And so, the best thing that you can do is keep it from getting in there in the first place. So today I’m going to show you the easy way to keep the Bermuda out of your mulch beds and to make it look good at the same time. So the best thing about this process is it doesn’t require a lot of stuff. You don’t need a lot of gear to do it. The first is some kind of edger. Uh this weasel edger. I think I picked it up on Amazon a few years ago. I’ll put a link to it down in the description. But um this is this tool or something like it is a must. Second, nothing fancy here. This is just your basic DeWalt string edger. And any string trimmer is going to work here. And then lastly is a Gorilla cart. I like this one just because you can dump it. It’s good to have a cart for a couple reasons. Obviously, one is just the ease of getting the Bermuda and the sod and and the grass that you’re getting out out of the way. But two, it’s important when you do this, and we’ll show you here in a second, not to get a bunch of mud and dirt dropped onto the ground. You’re going to start with your spade or edging tool and you’re just going to go up. You’re going to figure out how how far back in you want to come with your line. Come in a couple inches. Cut down into the ground and then give it a little little pull. Just like that. I’ll work my way down. And you can completely reestablish the edge here. I’ve now got a line run all the way down and um wasn’t that bad with the weather and the soil the way it is. You can see it’s it’s pretty dry. Let’s see your ground’s a little harder than mine is right now. You can come out after a rain and certainly do this. One drawback of doing it when it’s wet is at least here in North Carolina where we have pretty thick clay soils is that you’re not going to have a clean of lawn. It’s going to be a little messier of course because you’re going to be pulling out heavier wet soil as opposed to you know drier soil. But in any event, you know, if you do run into the issue where it’s a little too hard to get an edge established, just wait for a rain, come out and give it a go. The next step is going to be putting in a second line. You’re just going to want to come in one or two inches from your initial line. Push down, lift up. That’s it. Push down, lift up. And it’s not critically important that this line is is as straight as your first line, the actual edge. Really here, all you’re doing is going in and making it to where you’re going to be able to go back behind it and rip things out. I recommend a tool like this because this lip right here is great for creating the leverage that you need for this step. Now, you could do it with something that’s just a a a perfectly flat spade, of course, but you’ll see You know, this thing goes down. You get a consistent depth. You tilt and push. Down, tilt, and push. The next thing I recommend you do here is go in and do some perpendicular lines. That’ll just make the soil easier to pull out in chunks. What I mean by that, you know, as it stands right now, I’ve got one large piece of grass to pull out. Well, make that a little easier. Just come in, do a little line. Do a little line. And now instead of dealing with, you know, a 10-ft chunk of grass that you’re trying to rip out, you’re just coming in here and pulling pieces out. If it’s dry, this isn’t going to be too bad. If you’re dealing with wet soil, it’s going to be a little more difficult, but doable. Uh, you just got to pick your poison, I suppose. I I personally prefer to do this when it’s dry. I think that it makes for a better edge and you’re not going to, you know, make quite the same amount of mess as you otherwise would. I mean, you can see just here in the small amount of work that we’ve done, just how much sod we’ve pulled out and what kind of mess we would have had if we would have, I don’t know, just tossed this on the ground. I can tell you right now that if you toss this much on the ground, you’re inevitably going to get these kind of clay pieces like this, they’re going to be scattered all over your yard. They’re going to get pushed in. Next step is going to be taking the edger and putting the finishing touches on what will be our new mulch bed line. You can start straight like this and just kind of work in a little bit. You don’t have to go too far in. But after you put that first line of cutting into the grass, I like to come at an angle like this. And what that does is it puts a little more distance, just even more distance between the the grass, the growing grass at the top and the edge of your bermita bed. [Music] So now you’ll see what we have is a nice clean line that runs the length of our mulch bed. And so what we’re going to do now is just going to gently come in here. We are going to pull the mulch down, the mulch that we have down to the edge. And what that’s going to do is it’s going to give a look as though the mulch is just kind of trailing off down to the border of the grass. And because we have put in our angled cut, I see some Bermuda there. I still need to get But because we have put in our angled cut with a string trimmer, you’ll see that there is no point at which the grass and the mulch meet. And that’s really what you want if you’re going to keep the grass out of these mulch beds in the future. By setting up this beds, what you’ve done is you’ve created a defensive perimeter. And that’s probably one of the most important reasons to do this. And that is that once you create this cliff, you’ve effectively created a moat that your grass, in particular, your Bermuda, is not going to be able to cross to get into your mulch beds. And so the goal in a perfect world is to have these moes all through your yard um anywhere Bermuda would otherwise touch mulch. And if you do that, you can create a scenario where you’re not constantly pulling Bermuda out of your mulch beds. [Music] But we’ve got the front yard out there. I’ve certainly taken a little bit better care of that one than this one, which has only been rotary mode. That’s been real mowed. Uh I’m going to do some additional videos to kind of show you the testing I’ve been doing out here with fully real mowing the front uh using fertilizer and iron. um only real mowing here and then in the back real mowing but u not necessarily using the same products as I’m using in the front. So if you’re interested in in kind of getting a chance to see what difference the mowers will make, what difference the products will make, you know, be on the lookout for the next video. Have a good one. [Music]