Even in September, drought can sneak up on your plants. Water deeply, paying extra attention to shrubs, perennials, and hanging baskets that dry out quickly, columnist notes
September always feels like a soft landing after the rush of summer.
The mornings are cooler now, the evenings call for a sweater and the air carries that earthy smell of change. The maples are just beginning to blush, the fields are touched with gold and I find myself moving at a slower, steadier pace.
Farmers’ markets are brimming with late harvests, and even a walk through the yard reminds me of all the little jobs waiting. September may feel gentle, but it’s also a season of preparation—yet I always leave time to wander the garden with clippers in hand, picking a few beautiful flowers for the table.
And so, here’s September’s Crown of Flowers. Gladiolus spikes for drama, zinnias still bursting with cheerful colour, Japanese anemone with their graceful nodding blooms obedient plant adding structure and rhythm and Rodgersia leaves for bold, textured foliage.
This arrangement reminds me that as the season shifts, the garden still knows how to put on a show.
Monika Rekola photo
Even in September, drought can sneak up on your plants. Water deeply, paying extra attention to shrubs, perennials, and hanging baskets that dry out quickly. A thick layer of mulch—straw or shredded leaves—will help lock in moisture and keep roots cool. (Skip the hay, though—it’s full of seeds.)
Fall is an excellent time to plant perennials, shrubs and evergreens. With cooler air and warm soil, roots establish more easily than in spring.
If you’ve purchased shrubs hold off fertilizing until next year when their feeding roots are established.
Pruning: Less Is more
Prune only to maintain shape and keep it light. It’s best to avoid significant pruning in September since new growth may not have time to harden before winter. Use this time only to remove dead, damaged or diseased branches, or to shape a shrub if absolutely necessary.
Skip spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs, forsythia, azaleas, and rhododendrons — cutting them now will remove next year’s blooms. For shrubs that bloom on new wood, like Rose of Sharon and panicle hydrangeas, late-season pruning isn’t ideal, but if you must stick to removing spent blooms or giving them a light shape.
As for trees, the answer is almost always no, unless there’s a diseased branch or a dead limb.
Pruning now is like giving them an espresso shot — it wakes them up, encourages new growth, and that soft tissue will be killed by the first frost. Fruit trees already have their buds set for next year, so pruning in fall means fewer blooms and less fruit.
For perennials such as delphiniums, cut stalks back after blooming — they may reward you with a smaller flush before frost.
Daylilies and irises (Japanese and Siberian) are best divided now. Transplant irises into areas where they’ll have “wet feet but dry knees” for best growth.
Hardy lily bulbs can also be planted and left to overwinter.
Sow perennial seeds like black-eyed Susan, coneflower, yarrow, Columbine, and Coreopsis directly outdoors this month. Fall planting lets Mother Nature do the work of cold stratification — those weeks of chill and moisture the seeds need before they’ll sprout in spring.
By tucking them into your garden beds now, you’re setting the stage for strong, natural growth come May.
Bonus: Growing perennials from seed saves money compared to nursery plants — just be sure to mark them clearly for easy identification in spring.
Order your spring-flowering bulbs now so they’re ready for planting later this fall.
Tomatoes: Once night temperatures fall below 10 °C, vine-ripening stops.
Melons: place a thin board underneath to prevent rot and pest damage.
Care for raspberries and blackberries: Cut out old canes after fruiting to keep brambles productive.
Leaves: Rake or mulch?
A blanket of leaves doesn’t all have to go. Light leaf cover can be mulched into the lawn with a mower — the nitrogen feeds your turf. Thick layers should be raked, but don’t aim for perfection. Keep some leaves to feed your compost pile gradually through fall and winter.
Compost: The fall boost
Fall is the best time to add compost to your garden beds. Fork in a light layer now to enrich the soil before freeze-up. Think of it like making your bed in the morning: in spring, you’ll return to ground that’s already prepared and ready to welcome new crops. High feeders like corn, peppers, and beets will especially thank you.
If fruits are smaller or dropping early this year, it may be due to poor pollination. Drought stress and fewer bees during flowering reduce fruit set. Supporting pollinators with late-blooming plants like asters, goldenrod and sunflowers helps ensure healthier crops next year.
For the squash grower, the first strategy is to encourage more bees. That means planting flowers right in or near your vegetable beds. Sunflowers act like a beacon, visible from hundreds of meters away, while others bloom so profusely that no pollinator can resist:
● Alyssum
● Calendula
● Crimson clover
● Nemophila
● Phacelia
● Sunflowers
● White Dutch clover
The key is timing — make sure these flowers are blooming when your squash and other vegetables need pollination. Think of flowers as gardening tools every bit as important as mulch or compost. Increase biodiversity and you improve pollination.
Fall is a good time to give back — especially to pollinators. Every flower you plant for bees helps your vegetables and supports the living web of the garden itself.
Monika Rekola is a certified landscape designer and horticulturist, passionate about gardening, sustainable living and the great outdoors. Contact her at [email protected].
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