In this video, I’ll show you how to build a simple and sturdy outdoor garden bench from start to finish. This is a great beginner woodworking project that you can complete in a weekend using basic tools and materials.
✅ Build Plans! https://beyondtheoak1.etsy.com
Drop a comment below if you have any questions, and let me know what you’d like to see built next!
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🔧 Tools & Materials Used
BIBLE: https://amzn.to/49wQXPq
PROJECT SUPPLIES
Drop Cloth: https://amzn.to/3OPR13d
Nitrile Gloves: https://amzn.to/3ZNlRjf
Glue: https://amzn.to/44YzuxH
Moving Blanket: https://amzn.to/40s1yrM
Deck Stain: https://amzn.to/3GTGjZb
Wood Screws: https://amzn.to/4nSbgxs
Pocket Hole Screws: https://amzn.to/4kMGZNZ
Sandpaper: https://amzn.to/3GOlr5F
Clamp: https://amzn.to/44NRquI
TOOLS
Kreg Pocket Hole Jig: https://amzn.to/3D8pZkZ
Tape Measure: https://amzn.to/4gwYa4e
Paint Sprayer: https://amzn.to/4kMAFWS
Spray Booth: https://amzn.to/3IyYvYw
Right-Angle Drill Adapter: https://amzn.to/46N2UB5
Speed Square: https://amzn.to/4lzfqZA
Drill Bit Set: https://amzn.to/3D5NOtK
Driver Bit Set: https://amzn.to/4g8wjb3
POWER TOOLS
Miter Saw: https://amzn.to/3D7OGhz
Drill & Driver: https://amzn.to/3ZModyZ
Sander: https://amzn.to/49A1b1J
Jigsaw: https://amzn.to/3BsnhX7
Circular Saw: https://amzn.to/3IsYIwz
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#DIYBench #WoodworkingProject #OutdoorFurniture #BeginnerWoodworking #HowToBuild
#ThompsonsWaterSeal #PaintSprayer #SprayBooth
[Music] Hey, welcome to Beyond the Oak Woodworking. My name is Jordan and today I’m going to show you how I built this outdoor bench. Now, this bench you can knock out in over a weekend, even if you’re new to woodworking. Now, I’ll walk you through every step from cutting to assembling the frame to adding the seat slats and to protect it from the outdoor elements with a nice weatherproof finish. Now, if you want to build this exact bench, I’ve left a link for the build plans in the video description. Let’s get started. All the boards I’ll be using for this project are southern yellow pine. Starting with three 2x 6x8s, one 2x4x8, and one 2x3x 8. So to begin this project, I’ll start by cutting down all of these boards following the cut list in the build plans using my circular saw and a speed square. If you don’t have a circular saw, then you can easily get away with using a jigsaw or an old-fashioned handsaw. Either way, any of these saws will do the job. And as I mentioned, there is a link for the build plans in the video description of all of the measurements that I’m cutting right now. Okay, so now that I have all those boards cut to size, I need to build two leg frame assemblies. So, I will take two legs, a top stretcher, and a bottom stretcher, and fasten those together. And to fasten those, I have two options. I can do option A, which is drill deck screws from the outside in, or I can hide those screws and drill pocket holes in the bottom of the top stretcher. And I can do that by using my Craig pocket hole jig. And I’m probably going to go with this method because it’s a cleaner look. And I will show you how to use this right now. The first thing I need to do is set the collar to the correct length on the drill bit by referencing off the end of the spiral and not the end of the tip. The jig itself has a depth collar gauge to make this easy. I simply place the bit in the gauge and set the collar for what Craig recommends, which depends on the material thickness. In this case, 2 and 1/2 in. The drill guide also needs to be set depending on the material thickness. Since a 2×4 is actually an inch and a half thick, I’ll set it at an inch and a half. After that, I adjusted the toggle clamp, which will keep the boards from moving while I’m drilling the pocket holes. Now, I was ready to drill out all the pocket holes. If you are interested in purchasing this pocket hole jig, I have left a link in the video description of all the tools and supplies I’m using in this video. When you have a long board like this cross support, it’s easier to lay the board flat and clamp the jig vertical. Okay, so now that everything’s ready for assembly, the last thing I need to do is sand down all the surfaces of each individual piece. And right now is a great time to do that instead of when it’s fully built because you don’t have to worry about the sander trying to fit into all the nooks and crannies of the bench when it’s built. So, I’m going to begin doing that now. Now, I like to work through my sandpaper grits, starting at 80, then moving to 120 and finishing at 150. To begin assembling the bench together, I needed to start with the leg frame assemblies. So, I grabbed a leg and then applied glue to the end of the top stretcher and placed it against the leg. I then added the pocket hole screws and fastened them into place. Next, I basically repeated those same steps for the other leg. But as you can see here, the space between the two legs is too narrow for my drill to fit into. So, I had to use a right angle drill adapter to be able to fasten down these screws. For the bottom stretcher, I applied a bead of glue to each end. And notice I placed the pocket holes face down and also rested the piece on the workbench top. I then applied a clamp to hold it into place and flipped it over, exposing the pocket holes. I followed that by fastening the stretcher down with four screws. Moving on to the cross support, I laid the leg frame assembly on its side and then applied glue to the end of the cross support and centered it on the bottom stretcher. I then inserted the pocket hole screws and fastened them down with my drill. To attach the other leg frame assembly, I repeated the same steps as before. And to make things a little easier, I placed a clamp on the cross support to keep it in position while I fasten the screws. Now, you may have been saying, “Man, those screw holes look awful.” And I agree, they do. But the good thing is Craig also makes wood plugs that fit perfectly into these holes. Just apply a little bit of glue and slide them into place. It’s really that easy. Now that the base is finished, I can start laying out the seat slats. And when doing this, you want to put the nice side face down. You also want to space these about an eighth of an inch. And an easy way to do that is to use the same screws that you’ll be using to attach the base to the slats. Just lay a few of these in between each board. So, with the seat slats nice side face down, I laid the base upside down on top. I then went around the edges and matched all the sides with the same overhang. How about a random thumbs up? After that, I fastened the base to the slats with each slat getting two screws on each end. And before you know it, the bench is assembled. Now, since this bench is going to live outside, I need to protect it from the elements. And I have a few options when it comes to outdoor finishes. Paint, deck stain, and a clear coat. For this project, I’m going to go with a transparent deck stain to keep that natural wood look while also still sealing it up properly. Now, it’s time to get everything set up for staining. I’m using a handheld sprayer for this, and it makes applying the stain quicker and gives it a nice even coat. And to make things easier, I’m using a disposable cup liner inside the sprayer. It just drops into the container, and when I’m done, I can toss it. No cleanup needed. After shaking up the deck stain, I simply pour into the container and then fasten the container to the sprayer. To keep this mess under control and avoid overspray, I’m setting up this pop-up spray booth I found on Amazon. It gives me a clean, controlled space to work in, and it’s especially helpful when spraying indoors so the stain stays contained and off everything else in the shop. These booths fold up like camping tents and only take a minute or two to pop open. I like using one whenever I’m staining or sealing because it helps direct the spray and keeps the finish even. Once I had it fully set up, I place the bench inside, grab my paint sprayer, and began applying the finish. While spraying, I use long, even passes and keep the sprayer about 6 to 8 in away from the material. The goal is to get a nice light coat without letting the stain puddle or run. I’m starting with the underside and working my way up to make sure every part of the bench is sealed and protected. And that’s it. The bench is all done and ready for the outdoors. If you want to build this exact bench, I left a link for the build plans in the video description. They include all the measurements, the cut list, and step-by-step instructions. Let me know in the comments what kind of project you’d like to see next. And if you found this video helpful, be sure to give it a like and consider subscribing so you don’t miss the next one. Hey, I hope this build gives you a little bit of confidence to where you can build one for yourself. And the Bible verse for this video will be Matthew 11 28 and 29. And Jesus says here, “Come to me all of you who are weary and carry heavy burdens, and I will give you rest. Take my yoke upon you. Let me teach you because I am humble and gentle at heart, and you will find rest for your souls. For my yoke is easy to bear, and the burden I give you is light.” Thanks again for watching.
8 Comments
🛠 You can grab the full step-by-step PDF plans in my Etsy shop 👉 https://beyondtheoak1.etsy.com
Have questions about the build, tools, or finish? Drop them below—I do my best to reply to every comment!
👍 If you found this video helpful, hit like and subscribe for more beginner-friendly woodworking projects.
Keep up the amazing content!!
Love it!
Thanks for the video! Can you do a video on how to build a kitchen cabinet upper and lower and doors ?
Nice design! Keep up the great work 👍
If anyone wants to build one of these with no fasteners at all, be sure to pick up some pine dowels. 3/8" will probably work well. Harbor Freight has cheap flush trim saws.
If anyone is wondering whether you need glue for pocket hole joinery, YES. You do.
Quick & easy and can't wait to build it. I also love your good word ministry. God IS good, All Day, Every Day!!