Bought 2 old commercial greenhouses , posts are set in concrete , any suggestion or videos that can help me figure out how to love them 100 miles apart .

by newtomining

14 Comments

  1. newtomining

    These are 36’ x 200’ , also looking to understand how much are these worth , got them at auction for 3K a piece .

  2. Hortusana

    My guess is the posts aren’t worth the effort, unless they’re irreplaceable or extremely expensive by themselves. It’s a huge project even without ripping deeply buried concrete out of the ground.

  3. Realistic_Attention6

    This is a very low cost due to the effort that it’s gonna take to move and reassemble. Best bet is to try and bundle sections for large-scale transport or really disassemble the whole bitch. This is gonna be a pain in the dick to move but cool if you find a way, but lots of calling for estimates and the reality of loading it onto something. Best of luck OP.

  4. Slackerwithgoals

    Like eating an elephant.

    One bite a time.

  5. Get a price gun and start sticking numbered stickers to everything so you can remember.

  6. Acceptable-Class-255

    That’s scrap $$$

    My head hurts just thinking about tear down + transporting.

  7. justnick84

    Figure out what you are keeping, you will have garbage as parts don’t look like keeping.

    Remove perlins, remove top rail, Remove top hoops. Cut off ground posts at concrete (you will want to see if you can mount these on something new.) it’s a lot of work to move these things but could be worth it.

  8. Fuck_tard69

    How far you moving it? If it’s not far, Jack it up one section at a time, put some of those rubber castering wheels on it and tow it away

  9. ColonalCustard

    I’ve moved a few similar 30’x96′. The most common ones I’ve seen with the posts set in concrete have the vertical section of the hoop slide over the post and just has a thru bolt for uplift protection. I just remove all perlins, etc first. Then just unbolt one hoop at a time and lift them off the post section that in concrete. The swaged end of the pipe usually is only around 6-8″ so not far you have to lift it up, but they get bound over time of wiggling down with some added corrosion in the joints to really make it tough. One strong guy on each end usually works. If not wiggling it as a guy lifts with a high lift jack attached works well.

  10. Dumpster_Fire_BBQ

    Are these licated in N GA? They look very familiar.

    Take LOTS of pictures and notes. Label everything clearly. When loading, put all the hoops and purlins from each house together.

    The nuts will not come off gracefully. Many will be frozen, and many bolts will break. Plan on replacing all the screws, nuts, and bolts. You will probably need to replace the straps as well.

    The concrete and posts are of no value to you. To get the hoops off the posts, you may need to use a handyman jack or T post puller. If you can just leave the concrete and posts, do it. If you have to remove them, use a skidsteer to push them over.

    The endwalls are of no value to you. You can replace them with 6 mil poly or, better yet, single or double wall polycarbonate.

  11. Desert_lotus108

    Number every part and make a diagram of the whole thing ?

  12. We just moved eight 30 x 100. We basically pull it apart from the top down. We took trusses down whole to make reassembling easier. We took posts out of the concrete footers and then took walls down. It takes a bit of an army if you want it done fast. But I’ve also have done it with just one other guy.

  13. technosquirrelfarms

    If cutting posts, get a pipe cutter NOT a sawzall.

    Pipe cutter: the kind with the scoring wheel that you rotate around the pipe and tighten the clamp. It becomes a quiet, almost meditative task as opposed bone rattling misery resulting in jagged garbage.

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