Living in middle TN and just bought a house with a yard like this. Previous owners didn’t do much and had 4-5 dogs who wore down any sort of greenery in lots of places and left big mud spots. Front yard looks similar but with less mud. Where do I even begin? I’ve read just starting over and laying down cardboard but that seems kinda crazy to do to the whole yard (almost half an acre). Everything is weeds and it’s still getting pretty cold at night, hit 40 last night. I know this will be a process over years but any advice on how to best set myself up for success is welcome!
by _smellie
7 Comments
What’s your budget? What are you willing to do yourself? What’s your timeline? What’s your long term goal? Do you have dogs? Do you like grass only or do you want shrubs as well? How much shade is getting in lawn from trees and fencing?
My recommendation for any new homeowner is to do generalized maintenance (mowing, weeding, trimming, clean up of debris & leaves, fertilizing, & watering). Do this for one full year. Experience all 4 seasons and observe how the yard acts, looks & grows. During that year of observation, make a list of all your major changes you’d like to do. Throughout that year, you’ll realize your list will constantly change. You will save time, money, efforts and frustrations.
If it were me I would pull out all the weeds and crabgrass, even if it leaves a lot of dirt. They will come back because there are likely seeds in the ground, but after 2 or 3 runs of this they will stop coming back. I see you still have some grass patches, so while battling the weeds I would water and fertilize those patches as much as you can and see if you can get them to spread. Maybe after a year or so re-sod if it seems right.
Grass- seed or sod. Rip out everything dead and put what you want in the hole. Water, water, water.
First off, congrats on the new home! Restoring a yard like this can definitely feel overwhelming, but breaking it down step by step makes it a lot more manageable. Here’s what I’d do to set you up for long-term success.
Start by **pulling as many of the aggressive, voracious weeds as possible**. Focus on the ones that’ll outcompete grass once you reseed. Then, **till up all the grassless and compacted areas**. You’ve probably noticed that some spots are lower than others—those are going to hold water, and standing water will rot grass roots over time.
This is also the perfect opportunity to **address any drainage issues**. If there are low spots holding water, now’s the time to level them and ensure the entire property has proper grading. Ideally, the yard should have about a **2% slope** (or 1/4 inch per foot) moving away from the house and key areas to prevent future standing water and redirect runoff. This will make a big difference in the long-term health of your lawn.
Once the ground is prepped, bring in **high-quality, nutrient-rich topsoil** and, if possible, **compost** for added organic matter. The compost will help retain moisture and provide nutrients.
Here’s the layering process:
1. **After tilling**, cast a **light layer of grass seed** over the area.
2. Layer in your **topsoil and compost mix** until the low spots are level and the grade is set for proper water movement.
3. Once level, cast another **layer of seed on top**.
4. Use a **soft leaf rake** to lightly disturb the surface, just enough to settle the seeds into the soil. This helps with germination.
After seeding, cover the area with **erosion control matting** to keep the seed in place and protect it from runoff. If you need multiple layers of matting, make sure the **uphill edge of each layer overlaps on top of the lower layer**, like shingles. This stops water from running underneath and washing out the soil or seed.
# Watering Schedule for New Grass
* **First 2 Weeks (Germination Phase)**: Water lightly but frequently to keep the soil consistently moist. Aim for **2-3 short watering sessions per day** (morning, midday, and late afternoon), around **5-10 minutes each**. Avoid soaking the soil to prevent washout.
* **Weeks 3-4 (Establishment Phase)**: Once seeds start sprouting, reduce watering to **once per day** but for longer periods-about **15-20 minutes** to encourage deeper root growth. Morning is best to reduce disease risk.
* **Weeks 5-6 (Root Development Phase)**: Transition to watering **3-4 times per week**, deeply soaking the soil so the water penetrates **4-6 inches**. This trains roots to grow deep and strong.
* **After 6 Weeks (Maintenance Phase)**: Water **1-2 times per week**, applying about **1 inch of water** per session. Early morning is ideal. Adjust frequency during hot, dry spells.
Also, if possible, try to **restrict dog access to the freshly seeded areas**. Dog urine can be toxic to grass and disrupt the soil’s pH, which will slow or prevent healthy growth. If fencing off areas isn’t practical, consider setting up designated potty spots with gravel or mulch to help protect the rest of the yard.
It’s definitely a process, but this method gives you a solid start without going overboard. Over time, regular overseeding, fertilizing, and consistent watering habits will keep strengthening the lawn. Let me know if you have more questions-happy to help
Weed be-gone weed killer with crab grass control
https://preview.redd.it/4io2it8cy9pe1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3022b85a08253ee7e4fa89189e52cd146f63fc4f
, had the exact same issue years ago, sprayed it killed the weeds fertilizer then mixed and compost and filled in the dead spots and watered..then 2 years of pre-emergent and fertilizer twice a year…
Weed control. Aeration. Overseed with grass seed. Fertilizer. Lots of water. Weekly mowing. You’ll be surprised how much it will change in one season with just some basic consistent attention.