I am in Zone 8b. With Bermuda grass. Trying to get some suggestions with what I need to do before growing season. Which post emergent do you suggest?

by Unhappy_Doughnut7186

23 Comments

  1. AutoModerator

    The common lawn pre-emergents (prodiamine, pendimethalin, and dithiopyr) work to help reduce the germination of certain seeds… Mostly grasses and only a handful of broadleaf weeds. The labels will list which weeds are targeted. To prevent more broadleaf weeds, a specialty broadleaf pre emergent like isoxaben is required.

    Pre-emergents work by preventing the germination of seeds of the target species. So in order to be effective, a pre emergent needs to be applied BEFORE those seeds germinate. For winter annual weeds (annual weeds that are present in the fall, winter, and spring, like poa annua), a pre emergent needs to be applied in the fall before soil temps fall below 70F. In order to prevent summer annual weeds (like crabgrass), a pre emergent needs to be applied in the spring before soil temps reach 55F. (In very southern areas, timing can be more closely tied with periods of higher moisture AND climbing soil temps. Consult your state extension service for more specific guidance)

    Pre emergents will not kill existing weeds. Pre-emergents alone will rarely control a weed problem. Pre-emergents are tools to **reduce** the need for post-emergents. They rarely eliminate the need for post emergents.

    The labels of pre emergents have many important instructions and use restrictions. ALWAYS READ THE ENTIRE LABEL. For example, you are limited to 2 applications of each active ingredient per year.

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  2. FluffyMotherFluffer

    Following because this is literally what our yard looks like

  3. looknaround1

    I am the same zone same grass and same weeds what are these?!

  4. It’s thistle in Pic 2. Get rid of it soon. It’ll take over and they spread by stolons too so if you don’t get rid of it at this stage, you’ll be fighting it for years. Ask me how I know. Lol.

    get a broad leaf herbicide and spray it. If you can be very precise, use a literal paint brush to paint some glyphosate on it. Even some on a few leaves will kill it.

  5. Time-Pineapple-949

    Why not just pull them with your hands? That’ll take half an hour tops.

  6. No-League-1368

    Speed Zone. Red or Green will work very well

  7. Illustrious-Pin7102

    I would use either

    1) Hose End ready Weed Stop by Spectricide

    Or

    2) Any Weed & Feed Product

  8. Okie294life

    The cheap spectracide lawn weed killer mix you get at Walmart or Lowe’s. If you could go 30 days without your Bermuda greening up, plain ol roundup would get it or glyphosate. I just blanket sprayed my entire yard with glyphosate last week.

  9. FeelingFloor2083

    if thats all the weeds you have for a given area id use a weed puller

  10. RevolutionaryScar472

    Put on some gloves and rip them dogs out

  11. scarbnianlgc

    Grandpa’s Weeder, a good podcast, and some cold beer.

  12. What you want for both of these is considered 3 way or 4 way. Basically, what that entails is 2,4-D and 2-3 other chemicals.

    If you have a hose, you can easily run to Lowe’s or Home Depot and get spectricide weed stop with the hose and attachment.

    If you have a sprayer, you will get a better application, but it’s not worth buying just for this. But if you do have one, save more money and get the concentrate form of this.

    The yellow bottle is without crabgrass killer and will cover more area for about the same price. The one linked below is orange and includes crabgrass killer but your pictures are definitely not crabgrass.

    Only 2 important things you really need to worry about is that it can slow green up which isn’t a huge deal and that you don’t want to spray it while it’s 90+ degrees.

    [Amazon link](https://a.co/d/cPZvziG)

  13. asparagus_piss_jug

    I’m in dfw area and spent like 1.5 hours today with grandpa’s weeder and a podcast. I really can’t wait to get back to it. It was remarkably satisfying.

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