Just moved into a house here in East Texas about a year ago and hoping to be more involved with my yard this year.
Got my pre-emergent down a couple weeks ago but I’m noticing a lot of these clover like weeds with purple flower buds (creeping Charlie maybe?).
I’ve got some certainty and Celsius I’m planning on putting down soon. Hoping that will make a dent in what’s out there.
But one other area I’m not sure about… I’m noticing other new builds going up in the neighborhood by the same builder and I can see they put down sod on about 70-80% of the yard and then leave a good-sized chunk empty with just the dirt as you get farther away from the house. I’m thinking maybe the same thing was done when this home was built a couple years ago. The “main” front yard is Bermuda and looked good last season. The side yard is also mostly Bermuda, but then a big chunk seems to mostly be weeds the farther you get from the house.
What’s the best way to rectify this? Will the Bermuda eventually work its way over there? Do I need to do some kind of seeding?
by Bill_E_Crystals
2 Comments
The common lawn pre-emergents (prodiamine, pendimethalin, and dithiopyr) work to help reduce the germination of certain seeds… Mostly grasses and only a handful of broadleaf weeds. The labels will list which weeds are targeted. To prevent more broadleaf weeds, a specialty broadleaf pre emergent like isoboxen is required.
Pre-emergents work by preventing the germination of seeds of the target species. So in order to be effective, a pre emergent needs to be applied BEFORE those seeds germinate. For winter annual weeds (annual weeds that are present in the fall, winter, and spring, like poa annua), a pre emergent needs to be applied in the fall before soil temps fall below 70F. In order to prevent summer annual weeds (like crabgrass), a pre emergent needs to be applied in the spring before soil temps reach 55F. (In very southern areas, timing can be more closely tied with periods of higher moisture AND climbing soil temps. Consult your state extension service for more specific guidance)
Pre emergents will not kill existing weeds. Pre-emergents alone will rarely control a weed problem. Pre-emergents are tools to **reduce** the need for post-emergents. They rarely eliminate the need for post emergents.
The labels of pre emergents have many important instructions and use restrictions. ALWAYS READ THE ENTIRE LABEL. For example, you are limited to 2 applications of each active ingredient per year.
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