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New plant owner. Can someone tell me which philo this is? Thank you!
In Philodendron

New plant owner. Can someone tell me which philo this is? Thank you!


Hi philo friends. I’ve had this plant since October and it was labeled a philodendron. I tried to identify it, but I’m not entirely sure if I’m right. Anything that looks close seems to trail, while this plant stands upright and is tall.

Any advice or guidance is appreciated!

by drowningfaeries

4 Comments

  1. Ctougas01

    Looks like a golden goddess
    TL;DR chunky soil, bright indirect light, water when first 2-3 inches are dry, they love 55-70% humidity (it helps them unfold their leaves)

    Detailed answer :
    SUBSTRATE : Chunky aerated substrate if you tend to water too much. A layer of rock at the bottom, 15% chunky orchid bark mixed with 15% Leca and 15% perlite and 60% tropical soil. Those ratios are approximative, but the more chunky your substrate is, more often you’ll have to water as well, so depending on your room temperature, light exposure and the size of the foliage, that 40% chunky – 60% tropical soil may vary and can be found by trial and error. Try to create a gradient from chunky at the bottom to slowly finer at the top by mixing the bottom and slowly adding more and more tropical soil on top (chunkier so it can dry faster, make it more chunkier if you tend to overwater like I do

    LIGHT: They love bright indirect light, a very luminous room but avoid direct sunlight if it’s not acclimated.
    East exposure, the pot next to a window so it can get direct morning light. It’s easier for any plants to adapt to direct sunlight with morning sunlight because its intensity is slowly rising so the plan has time to adapt itself as the morning passes.
    For South and West windows, place it farther from the window so it gets a bright indirect light. A constant direct light from a South window will give it sunburns if your plant isn’t acclimated or adapted like cacti and succulents and will stunt its growth and anyway, syngoniums don’t like string direct light for too long, but no problem with indirect light.
    For a West window, it’s harder for the plant to go from zero to full sunblasting direct sunlight than from the gradual raising light intensity of the morning light and takes more time to protect itself from the sun than to grow. It’s like us, if we go outside in the afternoon without sunscreen, we burn under mid-day and afternoon sunlight, so we have to regularly use sunscreen lotion to prevent our skin from burning instead of enjoying our time outside without any intervention or breaks under the shades.
    For a North window, place it as close as possible to the window (just watch out if it gets really cold, place it a bit farther in that case) and you can place a lamp next to it to give it a boost during winter.
    More light means a higher photosynthetic rate, meaning a higher evapotranspiration rate and therefore, a higher water intake. In short, your plant will drink more water faster, making your substrate dry faster and less chance of root rot. The same logic applies to a plant with a big foliage, the more leaves, the more water it will absorb. The opposite is also true.

    WATER SCHEDULE:
    So many things (amount of light, room temperature, type of soil and plants, amount of water given) influence the watering schedule, so the “water once a week” rule doesn’t work for everyone. Here’s 3 easy ways to know when it’s time to water : Finger sticks into soil, stick method and hygrometer.

    Finger method : With drainage holes, you can give it a shower in your sink and you can let the water fully drain out before putting it back in his plate. Water it when the first 2-3 inches are completely dry. If they dry out for too long, the older leaves will turn yellow and fall. Showering it when you water it is definitely a good thing, it keeps it clean from dust (no proper gas exchange issues because of clogged pores, like white mineral deposits -white dots- that we often see on crassulas’ leaves), it makes sure that its soil is fully moist and that the excess of water drains out in the shower and it’s a great pest prevention.

    Stick method : You can use the stick method to see if your plant is ready to be watered which consists of putting a stick 3-4 inches in the soil, take it out and look how dirty it got. If the soil is damp, the stick will be dirty, no need to water. If it’s moist, you’ll see a bit of dirt sticking to it. In bright light and hot conditions, I’ll water at that stage, but not during winter. When it’s clean, time to water. You can put a little post-it on each of your pots saying the amount of days before watering. If you are a real plant freak like me, but still struggle to keep a consistent and regular watering schedule, you can also directly write into your calendar which plant needs to be watered on which day and include that into your daily routine. You’ll know that in your home’s conditions, each plant will have a specific watering schedule that will certainly differ from someone else’s home.

    Hygrometer (the one showing a 1 to 10 scale) : if your pot has draining holes, stick the point of the hygrometer at half the pot’s height or if there’s no drainage holes, stick it right over your rock layer or 2 inches over the bottom of the pot. During Summer and/or in warm and bright light conditions, water your substrate when it’s <3,5 . During Winter and/or in cold and low light conditions, water your substrate when it’s 2 or less if it’s like in winter.

  3. Background-Cod5850

    Philodendron Golden Goddess, Malay Gold, Lemon-Lime upright

    🪴 Keep Growing! 🪴

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