In this video, Brian shows you which seeds to never start indoors and instead only direct sow these seeds into the garden. If you’re wondering which seeds like to be started outdoors instead of indoors this is the video to watch.

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Hey Guys, I’m Brian from Next Level Gardening
Welcome to our online community! A place to be educated, inspired and hopefully entertained at the same time! A place where you can learn to grow your own food and become a better organic gardener. At the same time, a place to grow the beauty around you and stretch that imagination (that sometimes lies dormant, deep inside) through gardening.

I’m so glad you’re here!

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31 Comments

  1. Always such great advice! Your channel is great not just becasue of your knowledge, but because you're so passionate about gardening, and helping us! Thank you!

  2. First, the planting calculator is amazing. I’m still shoveling snow but need to keep ahead of the calendar for starts in the house. Because I have a short growing season, and the birds/gophers love the seeds, I start my cucurbits in paper pots that I make. I put out after 2 weeks. Love the show. Great information. Looking forward to spring.

  3. I’m in Ohio 6a, plenty a long season but squash bugs & cucumber beetles are brutal. I started all my cucurbits 30 days before transplant. I also did a round of direct sown at the time of transplant and the direct sown did poorly. The started ones did way better, even during a drought! The only cucurbit I didn’t start indoor was zucchini, I don’t care if they stunt, they’re ridiculous anyway 😂
    Also, parsley is a long growing season, so it needs to be started early! I grew one variety last year that I started in January, transplanted in March, and it finally died when it got to -3F.

  4. I've done both with cucumbers. We have a slug issue so if we don't transplant they get eaten. Any advice for slug protection?

  5. We have a much shorter growing season than you. I have tried direct sowing and starting indoors for pumpkins, squash and cucumbers and the only way we get a good harvest is by starting them indoors, I just dont let them get too big. We live in Eastern WA. Also your advice on peppers growing in the 50s at night is great but where we live it only gets in the 50s when its in the 100s which is only for a few weeks on and off in the summer, we have had really good pepper harvests enough to enjoy, share and preserve with the temps being in the 40s they seem to be more cool hardy than you would think.

  6. Brian. I attended the Seed To Harvest Summit! You did a great job! I was exhausted after they were over! So much info!

  7. Another helpful video for gardners of all levels. The hardest part for me is finding local information for my area. Zone 8B in the east does NOT seem to be the same as the west. Timing is totally different and the summer heat and humidity are nowhere near eachother.

  8. Hey Brian, I planted Purple Vienna Kohlrabi back in September. I'm not getting any bulbs, is it time to harvest leaves and give up on bulbs?

  9. Hi Brian. Love your videos. I'm having trouble locating links to your garden supplies such as the heating mats. Can you help?

  10. Have you ever tried starting carrots in the house using the egg carton method? I tried it last year and had better luck than direct sowing them. I'm going to try it again this year with a different variety. You end up planting the whole egg carton so no transplanting or thinning required.

  11. Cover the carrots with burlap. They will sprout and come right up thru the burlap. Then you canj simply liftv the material up and off without disturbing the young tops.

  12. Again said, using seed tape for root vegetables, you can then properly space the seeds, and not cut out plants (wasting seeds). One can use less seed, than spraying the row with too much seed.

  13. Oh oh oh brain fart !!! New John-technique for planting seeds that can do indoor and outdoor planting. One needs a planting tray with a bottom, like a muffin pan and drainage hole. Now take your black or green plastic containers. Remember 90 % perspiration yields 90 % production. 10% perspiration yields 10% production !!!! One gets the local garden shears and you are going to CUT OUT the bottom section of the container ~ 1/2 inch from the bottom. Place that in the bottom of all the tray bottoms. HOLD ON – THERE IS INTELLIGENCE TO THIS MADNESS ! Then one vertically cuts 2 opposite sides of the growing container. Place them back together in the planting tray. Load up the container with potting/growing soil. Grow your seeds into small plants. At the appropriate time, take the planter tray to the garden row, dig down the same depth and dimensions of soil as the container. One might even consider using a tulip bulb core digger to depth and pull out the complete plug. NOW, WITH DEXTERITY !!!, pull out the container with the 2 halves of the container still around the potting/growing soil and the seed with tap root. The bottom container will stay in the planting tray. Plant the container into the seed plot. THEN (amazing !) lift out the 2 sides of the container. You haven't damaged the potting/growing soil or the seedling root. All is intact.

    Just make sure (TAKE ITS TEMPERATURE !!!) … the real reason why seeds get sick and die, is the garden is too hot for the cold container soil and plant, … too cold for the warm/hot container soil and plant … or too dry for the humid (not wet) container soil and plant. Measure the temperature of the garden and the containers. Lightly water the garden row and container BEFORE planting. This makes a medium temperature between the two. By using this method, you can grow the plant in the container and planter tray, and move and remove them with ease. One doesn't remove the plant and soil from the container … one removes the container from the fully installed plant and soil. Lightly dust the soil at the surface. Come back later with other compost tea, manure, grass, silage, SMALL wood chips (shavings), other fish meal, feather meal, blood meal, A-Z rock soil, trace minerals, molasses, sorghum, or Karo clear or brown sugar syrup, and some crushed and liquified Vitamin B complex. Sugar rapidly assists in the growth of rootlets expanding outward sucking in the sweet sugars, while the Vitamin B complex is a soil and energy tonic boosting plant growth and health. IF you had put nitrogen-fixing bacterial spray into the bottom of the seed plot, and some beet root juice (NOX, nitrogen oxide) this is a natural nitrogen-fixing nutrient for plants, and a dash of iron mineral as well. Spraying in a dilute solution of yogurt or kefir provides chelated calcium, magnesium, phosphorus – and pre-/pro-biotics for the plant's and roots' health. Dilute spray or dusting of beneficial nematodes will also provide a safe and clean growing environment for the early plant's rootlets growth.

    Good growing !

  14. Time to dress up those raspberries and blackberry trellis, prune out the proper canes. Some are first growth, others are old growth.

  15. Hello, that was such a great video! I have sketched out my plan about my balcony garden. I want to be more organized than last year! This video and the garden calculator really helped me to hone in on what i want to plant and not go crazy. If i had the space i would grow everything! I really liked he idea of the biodegradable pots, that is going to help! Have a great day and thanks for the video!

  16. Hello! I want to grow from seed for the first time this year. The moisture control trays you linked are no longer available. Do you have another recommendation?

  17. Great video! I like to bring the thinned greens indoors to enjoy as microgreens. Not good to do with peppers, tomatoes, or eggplant but most plants are o.k. Research flowers and all really before consuming. Sunflower cotyledons/baby leaves are yummy!

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