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44 Comments
Don’t feel bad about not having block skills. It takes a lifetime, just like a bunch of skill sets. It’s not worth a lifetime of laying blocks for one project. The fact that you can run an angle grinder is proof enough that you have skills. That puts you ahead of 90 percent of men or women.👏👏👏
Legit use of the kid's sled. Work smarter not harder!
Maybe try doing a “stucco“ style skim coat. I did one on my cement block foundation. Depending upon how you mix up the material. You could make it as smooth or rough as needed. I went with a rougher style to match with. They did originally on my 1918 Era house in Nebraska. It also hides the imperfections if you have a rougher coat. Just like your interior drywall walls
You're not building an antitank fortification! Just did a demo of my old bbq island. Previous owners built it using the same idea – full size cinder blocks, 1/2 inch rebar, concrete fill almost every hole and right next to the fence. Budget a few days and a chiropractic – or a few thousand for demo/hauling when you get tied of the beds. I hope you can still reach the fence for whatever maintenance
stone veneer or stucco.
Very impressive! I think stucco probably gives you the smooth surface that you are looking for and it is easier to work with.
Agree with the torch method. Then just a concrete paint should be enough to cover the "ugly". Great box though.
Fantastic content!
You look exactly like starlight from The Boys (before the plastic surgery). Uncanny.
Could you use a parging solution? What they cover house foundations to give it a more appealing look
I think you can just sand it and paint it, it will look nice
I’d say sand it down. And worse come to worse apply one without fiber
I think I would’ve done the raised beds with wood. Then plastered or concreted over it. That way it easier to dismantle one day. This seems super permanent.
A weed burner will get the fiberglass threads off. Then smooth with sander (maybe) or small grinder. Then apply a microtopping with steel trowel. Definitely something that takes some practice to get it to look right.
Lol. Not recent research. It's a well known fact for many many years that low sodium is detrimental. Hyponatremia can be life threatening.
Sand it down, then primer and paint it.
That's awesome that your neighbor took the time to help you!
It's fix with very Thick Cement mixer with liquid waterproof in it 🙋🙋✨✨
Well done for getting on and giving it a go, but as an English bricklayer…ouch! And as I can also plaster double ouch! If I was your neighbour I'd help out.
Could you use a belt sander and sand them off, and then use a heavy coat of paint that's made for cement in whatever color you like, even a cement gray color?
Maybe use a torch to melt the fiberglass and do another skim coat after?
This is a high value wife.
Screw in some cedar fence boards so you can eliminate the cold look of concrete and warm it up with some wood.
Have watched you do your projects for years. Always getting great ideas from your projects! In this video I am surprised that they let you build a permanent structure over the gas line. I'm not sure if this is your service for your house or a neighbors. That being said, a safety note for your viewers for future reference when working around gas lines.
First rule, never assume with natural gas lines. If you are there when they do the locates ask if they can tell you approximately how deep the line is. If they can give you a depth, this is an estimate. When they mark the gas line with the flags, this is also an estimate, it will be close but I have personally seen gas lines marked several feet off of where the line was actually at. There are many factors that can cause issues. Other services, i.e., water service, sewer. On Poly service lines they run a tracer wire, because poly cannot be picked up by the locating equipment. A tracer wire is a copper wire run in the ditch with the poly pipe. It will not be exactly over the center of the poly service line. It will be in the ditch and an indicator that, the service line is in this general area.
A service line, feeding a house will be low pressure. Low pressure meaning the main at the road could be 30 to 40 PSIG for example. When it gets to your house it will be regulated down to water column. 40PSIG doesn't sound like much until you poke a hole in it. Key note here is never assume that your natural gas line is exactly where the yellow paint mark is. It will be close, how close? Sometimes on the money, other times, not so much. Be cautious.
The gas line, depending on how old your neighborhood is will be either steel or "poly". Steel is stronger if impacted. If you hit the steel though it does have a protective coating on the pipe. If you damage the coating, the steel will rust, it will leak eventually. The "Poly" pipe can be pierced if impacted. It is quite durable, will not rust but it is basically, plastic. Just really good plastic. Gas lines, low pressure, high pressure, pipelines have depth codes. There may be variations by states. Minimum depth for my state on a low pressure gas line service is 18 inches. All of the people I work with when doing new installs follow this and are usually deeper, slightly. Again, however, depending on the age of your neighborhood and this is the kicker, depending on who installed the service, way back when, erosion and other factors, I have personally seen service lines just below the roots of the grass.
When you were driving the rebar into the ground I was cringing with every strike of the hammer. In my profession, I have seen A LOT of stuff. Thank you for the great content and look forward to your future projects!
That looks like a parging product. Call someone who coats foundations, and they may know how to smooth the surface.
Next time, use Mortar Mix and the Concrete Bonding Adhesive. It's cheaper and works better than those other products.
Ur a super girl doing such work and its perfect
I have a 16' long x 2' wide and 3 feet high cinderblock raised bed. Do I need drainage?
I did this last year and it was challenging working alone. Im getting ready to do the facing. Your fibreglass cement is too thin, the fibreglass supposed to be 1/4"-1/2" thick to embed into the mix. But I'll be using Sakrete surface bonding cement/stucco. The good news is your project isnt ruined. you can always stucco over your project as many times as you want. Very nice job btw!
I think you should be really proud of what you've accomplished here. It's not easy to do something "the first time". I'm glad to see you got some help & that you showed your mistakes. I've had plenty of help over the years and I always learn a truckload from others. Good on you!
You have to feed the plants Nitrogen like crazy until those logs decompose. Nice work.
When you are going to stucco you should rub the block joints instead of striking them, usually pros just use a chunk of styrofoam
Burn the fibers with a torch, then paint with masonry paint grey
Don't you ever let me see you use a grinder again without eye protection..! 😟
👍👍👍👍👍
That’s a Good Sturdy Woman 👍🏽🤣🤪 Johnathan Brandmeier. WLUP-FM 👍🏽🍺👍🏾😎
Paint
Stucco is what you wanna apply on top of that.
NO NO NO!
LOL. If you don't know why not ask?
For being able to see the seem, I would cheat and add a third layer where you do just that section until the 90 degree inner turn. It may still be another shade(3rd shade) but each complete section will be solid and it is much harder for the eye to see the difference in a corner especially with the shade hitting that corner. You might not even notice.
That would be the cheapest and least work option to try. fix, I think.
Just buy a bag of of stucco sand finish slap it on and then go back over it with a wet sponge
Thanks
Sand n stain it